Alaskan_Son

I don't think you'll find any way to get that SHX font outside using AutoCAD. These aren't exactly the same and they dont have the same sketchy multi-line quality but here are another couple alternatives to Chief Blueprint, Flux, and Graphite Light... Fonts.zip And here's one more that's kinda interesting but its all caps only... architect.zip

Without seeing the plan, it's hard to tell fro sure, but if you can't get it figured out otherwise, try changing the overall height of one of the stair sections by maybe just 1/16" so that the 2 sections are no longer identical. They have to be identical in order to automatically wrap.

Hey Mike. Here's a quick video with a few tips that may help you out.... and here's another one I made a while back that also has some decent tips in it...

I'm not sure I really follow with a lot of what you said Mark, but regarding this statement... "Got incorrect result when width<9' and included 3/4” (1.75 read F3xx; 3.75 read F5xx; until 9”) Tried a bunch of stuff, read about rational, value.ceil, value.floor (have to re-read all that a few times, don't get it exactly but finally figured out they did not refer to the default room Eventually changed (value.ceil +1) to (value.floor +1) and everything works fine. I don't understand ?" value.ceil is simply rounding your value up to the nearest whole number and converting it to an integer. value.floor is simply rounding your value down to the nearest whole number and converting it to an integer.

3 ways... 1. Use macros created by Joe, myself, or others. 2. Create your own custom macros 3. Just create your desired text box in plan and send it to layout using a very small layout window. You just have to make sure your text box in plan is in a nice and stable position.

Polylines

I can't seems to figure out the difference between these 2 Ruby object attributes... visible_length and perimter Do any of you happen to know what the difference is...if there even IS a difference?

Post the plan.

I think most people have entirely missed the point of this thread. Here is the original post... I think the goal was to encourage OUR direct participation in the form of trying to influence these various manufacturers by directing them to Chief, not to simply suggest which manufacturers we want.

Sounds like you either need to change this setting... or adjust that orange color so that its a little darker than what you have i...till it crosses the threshold from "white" territory into "black" territory.

The fill color for those callouts is controlled by whatever layer the camera is on. Change the color for that layer and the callout fill will change as well.

Block them. Either marquis select or Control/Shift select, click Make Architectural Block, and then click Add To Library.

In general, we haven't used copper in probably 20 years with the exception of exposed pipes. We do a lot of remodel work and I don't recall ever seeing a pex leak. We find copper failures all the time though (electrolysis, hydrolysis, etc) Having said that, the 2 things that ARE worth considering... 1. Some people fear chemicals leaking from the plastic over time. The same can be said for copper too though to a certain extent. 2. You can put power to a copper line to melt it it ever freezes. The same cannot be done with Pex.

Here's another alternative (just posted over in the Tips and Techniques forum too)... Johnny's door.calibz EDIT: I should have mentioned in the video that you will probably want to set stretch planes in the appropriate places if you want to use your new symbol for additional widths. In this particular example, you would probably want to set a couple to either side of the center stile... You could set additional stretch planes for height and depth too if you want.

Totally.

Here are a couple other alternatives/workarounds for grid lines that I posted a little while back... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8008-custom-reference-planes-grid-lines-or-guide-lines-that-display-on-all-floors/?do=findComment&comment=70525 https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8715-section-planes-grid-lines-guide-lines-guide-planes-etc/?do=findComment&comment=76649

Build>Roof>Edit All Roof Planes

I use them....sometimes. Depends on the job. It's six of half and one dozen of the other...That's right, you heard me.

He's 15, and no components, all from scratch. To be fair though, he did get the design from an actual Lego design (you know, those little instruction books they send with those little kits you buy).

Larry, There are 2 sneaky reason I can think of off the top of my head that would cause a layer to be UN-deletable. 1. The layer is being used in one of your CAD blocks. To fix this you might have to go into CAD Block Management and either Purge all unused CAD Blocks or at least purge the ones that are using those layers. 2. You have a default setting somewhere that is using that layer. This is probably the hardest one to track down unless you know exactly where it is.

Your structure settings aren't right. A deck requires at least 2 structural layers. One framing layer and a decking layer. Remove your finish layer and add a layer to your Structure and you should be good to go.

You can do all that anyway. Just send multiple cropped plan views. Easy peasy.

Whoa whoa whoa! I have to disagree with this statement. I almost never use the snap grid. My reason? I aim for extreme accuracy. Unless the snap grid is set to at least 1/8" it can often do more harm than good. Real accuracy depends on using the right tools though for sure and I don't think "Accurate" Move has ever been the right tool for that job. I think true accuracy can only be obtained in one of 3 ways: Using actual (and correct) snaps. These snaps may or may not come from the snap grid in some cases. Entering the correct numbers manually Using Bumping and Pushing Now you can use those snaps and enter those numbers in any number of various ways: For snaps; Move Point to Point Move Resize Align/Distribute Center Object Reflect About Object Etc. For manually entering numbers; Hitting Tab and using the Enter Coordinates Dbx. Using Dimensions (Manual, Temporary, or Automatic) Using Transform/Replicate Using Multiple Copy Entering numbers directly into the various object specific dialog boxes Etc. The 1/2" snap grid will do you little good when trying to place a toilet 15" from a 5/8" drywall layer, when trying to align to your 7/16" OSB layer, when trying to draw in elevation, when trying to center something over your 47 1/8" hutch...I could do this all day. For quick wall layouts the snap grid is fine but if it's accuracy you're after I really think a person needs to familiarize themselves with the other tools mentioned above.

Keep working at it till I figure it out. If you've read the help files and done the rest of your homework then the only other alternative would be to give up and go home.

Larry tried to tell you a very good method in Post #3. Switch to your All On layer set and make sure all layers are actually turned on (Select All and check Display) Start at your bottom or top floor and Hit Control+A (Select All). Do this one floor at a time and you'll eventually find a floor where your selection area is larger than you expect it to be. When that happens... Fill Window (F6) as Richard and Chopsaw also mentioned. This should help you locate the rogue offender(s).