Alaskan_Son

The fill color for those callouts is controlled by whatever layer the camera is on. Change the color for that layer and the callout fill will change as well.

Block them. Either marquis select or Control/Shift select, click Make Architectural Block, and then click Add To Library.

In general, we haven't used copper in probably 20 years with the exception of exposed pipes. We do a lot of remodel work and I don't recall ever seeing a pex leak. We find copper failures all the time though (electrolysis, hydrolysis, etc) Having said that, the 2 things that ARE worth considering... 1. Some people fear chemicals leaking from the plastic over time. The same can be said for copper too though to a certain extent. 2. You can put power to a copper line to melt it it ever freezes. The same cannot be done with Pex.

Here's another alternative (just posted over in the Tips and Techniques forum too)... Johnny's door.calibz EDIT: I should have mentioned in the video that you will probably want to set stretch planes in the appropriate places if you want to use your new symbol for additional widths. In this particular example, you would probably want to set a couple to either side of the center stile... You could set additional stretch planes for height and depth too if you want.

Totally.

Here are a couple other alternatives/workarounds for grid lines that I posted a little while back... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8008-custom-reference-planes-grid-lines-or-guide-lines-that-display-on-all-floors/?do=findComment&comment=70525 https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8715-section-planes-grid-lines-guide-lines-guide-planes-etc/?do=findComment&comment=76649

Build>Roof>Edit All Roof Planes

I use them....sometimes. Depends on the job. It's six of half and one dozen of the other...That's right, you heard me.

He's 15, and no components, all from scratch. To be fair though, he did get the design from an actual Lego design (you know, those little instruction books they send with those little kits you buy).

Larry, There are 2 sneaky reason I can think of off the top of my head that would cause a layer to be UN-deletable. 1. The layer is being used in one of your CAD blocks. To fix this you might have to go into CAD Block Management and either Purge all unused CAD Blocks or at least purge the ones that are using those layers. 2. You have a default setting somewhere that is using that layer. This is probably the hardest one to track down unless you know exactly where it is.

Your structure settings aren't right. A deck requires at least 2 structural layers. One framing layer and a decking layer. Remove your finish layer and add a layer to your Structure and you should be good to go.

You can do all that anyway. Just send multiple cropped plan views. Easy peasy.

Whoa whoa whoa! I have to disagree with this statement. I almost never use the snap grid. My reason? I aim for extreme accuracy. Unless the snap grid is set to at least 1/8" it can often do more harm than good. Real accuracy depends on using the right tools though for sure and I don't think "Accurate" Move has ever been the right tool for that job. I think true accuracy can only be obtained in one of 3 ways: Using actual (and correct) snaps. These snaps may or may not come from the snap grid in some cases. Entering the correct numbers manually Using Bumping and Pushing Now you can use those snaps and enter those numbers in any number of various ways: For snaps; Move Point to Point Move Resize Align/Distribute Center Object Reflect About Object Etc. For manually entering numbers; Hitting Tab and using the Enter Coordinates Dbx. Using Dimensions (Manual, Temporary, or Automatic) Using Transform/Replicate Using Multiple Copy Entering numbers directly into the various object specific dialog boxes Etc. The 1/2" snap grid will do you little good when trying to place a toilet 15" from a 5/8" drywall layer, when trying to align to your 7/16" OSB layer, when trying to draw in elevation, when trying to center something over your 47 1/8" hutch...I could do this all day. For quick wall layouts the snap grid is fine but if it's accuracy you're after I really think a person needs to familiarize themselves with the other tools mentioned above.

Keep working at it till I figure it out. If you've read the help files and done the rest of your homework then the only other alternative would be to give up and go home.

Larry tried to tell you a very good method in Post #3. Switch to your All On layer set and make sure all layers are actually turned on (Select All and check Display) Start at your bottom or top floor and Hit Control+A (Select All). Do this one floor at a time and you'll eventually find a floor where your selection area is larger than you expect it to be. When that happens... Fill Window (F6) as Richard and Chopsaw also mentioned. This should help you locate the rogue offender(s).

Newell, Since you asked, I posted this quite some time ago... I was just trying to be straight with you. As with many of your other threads it looks like you may have never returned to it, and certainly didn't respond to it. Anyway, some of those negative points were from me. Not because I think you are too small. On the contrary, I think you've got lot going on and it just seems like you treat this forum like a repository for free help to get that work done and nothing more. Truth is that I'm not sure I've seen any evidence that you're trying to learn or help others learn, mostly you just want to get work done and have us do it for you (at least that's what it seems like). In fact, I stopped responding to your threads a long time ago after I poured in time to help you out...only to have my (correct) answers completely ignored or otherwise unappreciated and like I said in the above post, I don't think I'm the only one who feels that way although I may be the only one who has been willing to say so out loud. Actually I just went back and read through a handful of your threads and was very quickly reminded exactly why I feel the way I do. So...in short, if you want a better reputation all you really have to do is take the time to participate a little better: Take the time to truly comprehend the answers people give you so that we don't feel like we're wasting our time. Invest the time to learn so it doesn't feel like we're just doing your work for you. Maybe do a little helping out yourself from time to time, but most of all... Just participate better. In my short foray into the past I found thread after thread where people were donating their own valuable time, legitimately trying to help you and you failed to participate even in your own thread. If you want help and if you want to learn you should be willing to take the time to respond to people trying to help you. Admittedly it seems you've gotten a little better. I don't think your reputation has gone down in some time though either. And lastly, just as a side note for whatever it's worth, I've given you positive reputation in the past as well...

Wow, that's a very creative solution Glenn. Thank you.

Maybe. Organization, searching, and editing would be a lot easier though. This is one case where Gerry's idea of allowing macros names to take arguments would really work well... %Electrical Notes(Note 1)% %Electrical Notes(Note 2)% %Framing Notes(Note 7)% ETC Where the macro would set the file path and the argument would set the file name.

Those are good ideas but I was actually talking about the possibility of using Ruby to ACCESS the files. Pigeonhole seems to create file types based on some sort of number system..."Note A" is saved as a .0 file type, "Note B" is saved as a .1 file type, "Note C" is saved as a .2 file type and so on. They are oddly named file types but they all seem to be nothing more than simple text files and Ruby can read the file just fine so long as you provide it with the file path. It might be a little tricky to set up. Just sayin' its a possibility that might be worth exploring for some people.

I just downloaded that. FWIW, a person could use macros along with that app. The notes are all saved as a ".#" (.0, .1, .2, .3, etc.) file types but Ruby can read them just like normal text files. Looks like a super handy app regardless. Thanks Richard.

Ya, that's not quite the same thing but I see what you're saying. The grid obviously adds a visual cue you don't have when you're simply using grid snaps. I was really just trying to offer an option that provides for an actually functional 3D grid in Chief.

FWIW, Chief draws walls from the top of the wall so if you want a truly usable, snapable grid, you have to use a 3D object for your grid lines (molding polylines in the attached example) and place them at the ceiling height of the floor you're drawing on. I personally never draw walls in 3D though and I'm not sure I ever will. If you want the clients to see the action in 3D you can always just tile your views.

Yup. It would be an A+ except he decided to leave off the "studs" from the top of the Lego pieces. He did model the whole thing out of individual pieces though.

Here's a Lego house my son made in Sketchup. I thought it was pretty cool so I wanted to share it : ) Lego house.calibz

Auto Place outlets WILL auto place GFCI over kitchen countertops for me. Thanks for pointing that out Chop.