Alaskan_Son

There are a few ways to achieve that end result in Chief. I don't have a lot of time or I might make a quick video but here are a few things you might try... - Molding polylines. Basically draw the contour of your dome shape to create a molding profile. Then draw your circular molding polyline(s) using the dome shaped molding(s). - 2D Faces and the revolve tool. - A half sphere converted to a symbol and then resized. - I'm away from my computer so I can't test this right now but I think there is a way to use the sphere tool. I'll look into it when I get back to the office if I remember. - Molding polylines and the Face tool. This one is too complicated to describe in a simple text post (all I have time for right now) but in short, draw a series of circular elevation contours using molding polylines to create a sort of topographical framework and then draw the surface using the face tool which can snap to those molding polylines. - Use the terrain tools and convert to symbol. This could be an effective method but it's also pretty complicated as it typically requires creating several iterations of the terrain and then combining them into a single symbol. - Roof planes. Again...this is another pretty complicated method. You might consider contacting/hiring Yusef if you want to go this route. He's done quite a bit of pretty complex roof systems...more so than anyone else I know of anyway. In short though you need to start with some base roof planes then build a series of additional planes to fill it all on. For most all of the above methods it will be important to fully understand the geometry you're working with and to start with all the correct dimensions to avoid having to redo things. Hope that helps.

Thanks Scott I won't go into it in great detail, but one thing you can use that can be extremely handy is trusses. You can basically start with any truss configuration and then make manual edits to the truss detail to achieve all sorts of things. P.S. You can similarly use a wall framing detail to get a few additional capabilities. Sometimes I'll use a wall framing detail to add framing to surrounding areas.

I'm away from my computer so I can't actually test it out right now but I'm honestly not sure whether or not that can be done with an actual beam. I think it MIGHT be possible. I do know for certain that you can use a number of other object types to achieve that end result though such as p-solids, solids, standard framing members, extruded faces, molding p-lines, etc.

I'm just guessing here but I think the OP is talking about bent beams as in beams used to construct a structural bent (noun) like we do for timberframe structures...kinda like a truss that usually incorporates the wall framing or main support posts as part of the bent structure. Something like this but built using steel beams... I doubt he is referring to a beam that is bent (adjective). Now having said that, I still don't know what kind of symbols these might be. As I see it those bents would need to be custom built for each individual situation based on the material and beam type as well as the building dimensions and overall design. I would likely be using molding polylines as Joe suggested, p-solids, solids, some other primitive modeling tool, or a combination thereof.

Yes and no. The edge of the shear panel is where I would consider it to be most important, but it's really just the spacing in general that I'm referring to. If for example we are framing at 24" on center, I want to have a stud at every 24" increment no matter what. I will personally very rarely shift stud spacing for anything. If there is no stud on layout it can cause problems for insulation, wall sheathing, wall coverings, siding, trim, and all sorts of other things.

I would personally want to see 4 things at an exterior corner like that... 1. A stud that lands ON LAYOUT for exterior sheathing and siding reasons as well as to provide proper bearing in some circumstances. 2. Drywall backing. 3. Something to tie the corner together in such a way that limits movement and therefore potential drywall cracks or screw pops in the future. 4. A little less important, but access for insulation and wiring purposes. There are a good handful of alternative methods, but in my opinion Chief has chosen what I feel is the single best compromise with that rotated end stud.

Sorry guys, but I don't think thats what it is. That setting simply changes the automated corner intersection behaviour and has nothing to do with the stud layout per se. With that setting checked, all horizontal walls are automatically framed through like this... With the setting unchecked, all VERTICAL walls automatically frame through like this... The corner framing configuration on the other hand is MOSTLY (see note below) the result of how the layout lands. If the layout of the last stud lands somewhere over the designated spacing (24" in this case) then you get the rotated stud... ...If the layout of the last stud lands somewhere UNDER the designated stud spacing then you get a normal corner... I'm not necessarily agreeing with the behaviour and have previously suggested some improvements in this particular area myself. I'm just explaining how I understand it to work. NOTE: I said "MOSTLY" because the behaviour does seem to be a little inconsistent. It does however always seem to be the result of layout landing just over or just under the set stud spacing.

Wow. That's really cool. Had no idea we could create a schedule like that for an individual detail. Thanks for the tip!

Material List Polyline

Here's a really good description of how pattern files work and how you can write them yourself without the need for any additional software... http://www.apertedesign.com/2011/12/customizing-pat-files/ There are also a small handful of pattern file generators online. Just do a quick search and you should probably find something you can use. This guy (or gal) came up with a pretty ingenious method using excel... http://www.cadhatch.com/hatch-pattern-generator/4588167700

Bruce, As Mick said, and as Eric said in another one of your threads...Please give your thread a title that roughly describes your topic. Besides the fact I've been a little too busy lately to respond to much of anything, I personally hadn't responded to this thread for 2 main reasons: 1. It's hard to help people who don't listen to advice and who can't take the time to more clearly communicate in such a way that shows respect for other people reading along and trying to help out. This is your 4th thread, and they're all titled "creeter". Someone already asked you to address that particular issue and you either haven't cared enough to read their response, or you don't care enough to head their advice. 2. I couldn't actually understand the question. Please remember that the guys helping out on here are donating their own valuable time. Please really take the time to spell out your questions as well as possible and try to include at least a screenshot if you can so that we all know what you're talking about. With regard to your question...I'm only assuming that Chopsaw guessed correctly and that you're talking about displaying and modifying these extension numbers that show up when you select a dimension string... ...If that is correct, then the closet thing I can really think of is to use point to point dimensions and assign a letter to the point marker text. I would personally rather just add those numbers or letters as freestanding text objects though as Chopsaw already suggested. Quick example plan with the point markers used for the A and B and text objects used for the C and D... Letters.plan P.S. If you keep naming your threads "creeter" there is a good chance people won't even read them assuming they've already read it.

Very creative Graham. Nice job coming up with an alternative solution!

Rene, Based on the examples in your original post, I personally prefer the vector view version. The edge definition, crisp lines, and lack of unnecessary realism help keep the focus where it should be IMO. The one thing I would change would be the lines for the tile on the wall. They should be made much lighter. They clutter up the view too much. Here's kinda how I see it. For any kind of construction detail drawings we want to include the required information and try to limit the unnecessary information. In my opinion the rendering style and color CAN add a ton of that unnecessary information I'm talking about. It may look nice but I think it can be truly distracting and even a little confusing at times and should therefore be used carefully, sparingly, and only very strategically. Again, this is just me but if I'm looking to print up some detailed drawings and specs for some product we'll be using onsite, I try to locate and print up the simplest and most focused detail I can find...typically a black and white line drawing with just the necessary notes and dimensions.

Ed Zachary. Site built windows are commonly built using nothing more than a glass unit that is sandwiched and held in place by an inside frame and an outside frame...just like the mortised condition you mentioned but without 2 separate pieces instead of a mortised groove. This situation is next to impossible to accurately model in Chief. In fact, I haven't complained about it much, but it is actually next to impossible to accurately model ANY window style that we currently use. The window tool really needs some work. We've made plenty of suggestions. This situation you've pointed out is another that should probably be added to the list though.

Run a quick Plan Check

To expand upon what Tom said... For panels running perfectly horizontal, you can simply use a Wall Niche. Just set the depth to something very shallow and use the casing as your wainscot molding. No need to convert to a symbol. For the panels with an angled bottom (those running up the side of the stairs) you'll need to do as Tom suggested but with some added steps... I would draw a copy of your curved wall in a blank plan, place the window(s) into that wall, use the Delete Surface tool to delete everything except your molding, and then convert that to a symbol again, this time just as a regular fixture. Now place that new symbol in your plan.

I tip my hat to Rene's rendering capabilities and won't argue his advice. I would like to point out however that turning off photon mapping should not be considered a "solution" but rather a compromise. IMO you will lose a substantial amount of realism by turning that setting off (may or may not be fine depending on the situation). The real solution in my mind is to really work on your methods through lots of experimentation by getting a feel for: -Lighting (type, quantity, location, color, intensity, etc.), -Material settings (this can get very complicated but it is a crucial part of obtaining good looking results) on an object by object and even surface by surface basis. -Ray trace settings. I think it would help greatly to search out and study some of the terminology such as photon mapping, caustics, ambient occlusion, etc. When it comes to ray tracing I really believe there are no real short cuts. Every model and even every scene seem to be a little different and bring their own unique challenges. It takes dedication to the art and a lot of practice. Best of luck.

As Doug so eloquently put it... Huh?

Doesnt really matter what level you build on as long as your height are set correctly. The stairs and walls should just be on the same level as each other. Also... You don't necessarily need to use invisible walls. You could use any wall type (visible or not and displayed or not). You just need to have walls of some sort in order to utilize that automated winder behavior.

Winders will automatically cut to the walls...

Try using the technique Dennis mentions in this thread. I think its probably the best option...

I don't see any attached image Scott.

Make the other parts "Open Below". Here's a really quick example... Example.plan

Yup. I would just use the method I mentioned in the other thread(s) I referenced and add a thin extra main layer for the black shadow line.

Away from my computer but you can probably just use a gap material type for your walls' exterior layers (which will allow the "reglet" to be recessed) but then I'm not so sure the resulting solution is any different than the aforementioned method that just uses the MRs to cut the grooves.