Alaskan_Son

Bruce, As Mick said, and as Eric said in another one of your threads...Please give your thread a title that roughly describes your topic. Besides the fact I've been a little too busy lately to respond to much of anything, I personally hadn't responded to this thread for 2 main reasons: 1. It's hard to help people who don't listen to advice and who can't take the time to more clearly communicate in such a way that shows respect for other people reading along and trying to help out. This is your 4th thread, and they're all titled "creeter". Someone already asked you to address that particular issue and you either haven't cared enough to read their response, or you don't care enough to head their advice. 2. I couldn't actually understand the question. Please remember that the guys helping out on here are donating their own valuable time. Please really take the time to spell out your questions as well as possible and try to include at least a screenshot if you can so that we all know what you're talking about. With regard to your question...I'm only assuming that Chopsaw guessed correctly and that you're talking about displaying and modifying these extension numbers that show up when you select a dimension string... ...If that is correct, then the closet thing I can really think of is to use point to point dimensions and assign a letter to the point marker text. I would personally rather just add those numbers or letters as freestanding text objects though as Chopsaw already suggested. Quick example plan with the point markers used for the A and B and text objects used for the C and D... Letters.plan P.S. If you keep naming your threads "creeter" there is a good chance people won't even read them assuming they've already read it.

Very creative Graham. Nice job coming up with an alternative solution!

Rene, Based on the examples in your original post, I personally prefer the vector view version. The edge definition, crisp lines, and lack of unnecessary realism help keep the focus where it should be IMO. The one thing I would change would be the lines for the tile on the wall. They should be made much lighter. They clutter up the view too much. Here's kinda how I see it. For any kind of construction detail drawings we want to include the required information and try to limit the unnecessary information. In my opinion the rendering style and color CAN add a ton of that unnecessary information I'm talking about. It may look nice but I think it can be truly distracting and even a little confusing at times and should therefore be used carefully, sparingly, and only very strategically. Again, this is just me but if I'm looking to print up some detailed drawings and specs for some product we'll be using onsite, I try to locate and print up the simplest and most focused detail I can find...typically a black and white line drawing with just the necessary notes and dimensions.

Ed Zachary. Site built windows are commonly built using nothing more than a glass unit that is sandwiched and held in place by an inside frame and an outside frame...just like the mortised condition you mentioned but without 2 separate pieces instead of a mortised groove. This situation is next to impossible to accurately model in Chief. In fact, I haven't complained about it much, but it is actually next to impossible to accurately model ANY window style that we currently use. The window tool really needs some work. We've made plenty of suggestions. This situation you've pointed out is another that should probably be added to the list though.

Run a quick Plan Check

To expand upon what Tom said... For panels running perfectly horizontal, you can simply use a Wall Niche. Just set the depth to something very shallow and use the casing as your wainscot molding. No need to convert to a symbol. For the panels with an angled bottom (those running up the side of the stairs) you'll need to do as Tom suggested but with some added steps... I would draw a copy of your curved wall in a blank plan, place the window(s) into that wall, use the Delete Surface tool to delete everything except your molding, and then convert that to a symbol again, this time just as a regular fixture. Now place that new symbol in your plan.

I tip my hat to Rene's rendering capabilities and won't argue his advice. I would like to point out however that turning off photon mapping should not be considered a "solution" but rather a compromise. IMO you will lose a substantial amount of realism by turning that setting off (may or may not be fine depending on the situation). The real solution in my mind is to really work on your methods through lots of experimentation by getting a feel for: -Lighting (type, quantity, location, color, intensity, etc.), -Material settings (this can get very complicated but it is a crucial part of obtaining good looking results) on an object by object and even surface by surface basis. -Ray trace settings. I think it would help greatly to search out and study some of the terminology such as photon mapping, caustics, ambient occlusion, etc. When it comes to ray tracing I really believe there are no real short cuts. Every model and even every scene seem to be a little different and bring their own unique challenges. It takes dedication to the art and a lot of practice. Best of luck.

As Doug so eloquently put it... Huh?

Doesnt really matter what level you build on as long as your height are set correctly. The stairs and walls should just be on the same level as each other. Also... You don't necessarily need to use invisible walls. You could use any wall type (visible or not and displayed or not). You just need to have walls of some sort in order to utilize that automated winder behavior.

Winders will automatically cut to the walls...

Try using the technique Dennis mentions in this thread. I think its probably the best option...

I don't see any attached image Scott.

Make the other parts "Open Below". Here's a really quick example... Example.plan

Yup. I would just use the method I mentioned in the other thread(s) I referenced and add a thin extra main layer for the black shadow line.

Away from my computer but you can probably just use a gap material type for your walls' exterior layers (which will allow the "reglet" to be recessed) but then I'm not so sure the resulting solution is any different than the aforementioned method that just uses the MRs to cut the grooves.

Here's a pretty quick rundown of one method... 1. Take an elevation view and Create a CAD Detail From View to get the appropriate snap points. 2. Draw an arc in that CAD Detail. 3. Select that arc and convert to a polyline. Set the number of segements to the lowest number that looks good. 4. Cut (Control + X) and then Paste Hold Position (Control + Alt + V) that polyline into your elevation view. OPTIONAL: While back in your elevation view, start at one end of your arced polyline and one by one systematically disconnect each line segment and use the floating edit handle (the name and shape escape me) to drag a new vertical polyline segment straight down beyond the lower edge of your wall. 5. Select your wall, click on the Break tool, put it in sticky mode, and then place a break directly below the end of every one of the line segments making up your arced polyline. 6. Reshape your wall by snapping all your new break points to the arced polyline. That's one way anywho.

Looks and sounds to me like all those symbols simply have black lettering which would explain why you can't see them on your black background.

Try this...

Thanks guys! I agree though. There should be a better way to do this. Honestly, in general, I think we should be able to rotate more things in elevation views.

Yep. Just an added tip on this... Once placed into your user library you can actually use the SAME symbol for multiple offsets. Simply switch to a 3D view, open the symbol in the library and then "paint" it onto your cabinet. Chief will always remember the symbol as it was originally placed so you can then proceed to use the same symbol for another cabinet in the same way with a different offset if you wish. I have it on my mental to-do list to make a video on the subject but this same technique can be used for all sorts of things. I especially find it useful for adjusting bounding box settings for both 3D moldings (changes the spacing) and for symbols added to parametric objects as accessories or attachments (allows the object to be narrower, wider, shorter, taller, deeper, or shallower than intended). It just gives you a way to pretty quickly and easily adjust things as necessary without creating extra symbols and without opening and closing the main object anymore than necessary.

Several different ways to accomplish this type of thing. Some of which have been mentioned above. Here's my take though on what I've personally found to be the cleanest and easiest method...

Sorry, I should probably mention that the above instructions were based on using a frameless cabinet and inset doors. For other styles you will likely have to adjust the Y origin a little further to get the appropriate backset.

Away from my computer Mark but why the extra stretch plane. I might be missing something and it's almost the same as your suggestion but I believe what I would do is this... Make a copy of the necessary door symbol and rename it to something like "Custom Back Slider", change the Y origin (probably 1"), adjust the bounding box width to make it just a hair smaller (maybe 1/2"), and change the X origin to maybe 1/4"-3/8". Changing the Y origin provides for the backset, adjusting the bounding box width allows the door to be slightly larger than the cabinet opening (usually necessary for sliders), and adjusting the x origin moves that larger door over a bit so you can space it from the cabinet box or even show the door in the open position. Once the symbol is adjusted appropriately apply it to one of the doors. Then make a copy of your new symbol and name it something like "Custom Front Slider", adjust the symbol to set the Y origin back to zero and apply it to the other door. To make slight adjustments to width or spacing, switch to a 3D view, adjust the X/Y/Z origin and/or bounding box settings of the appropriate symbol in your library and "paint" it onto your cabinet door (which will allow you to very quickly test your adjustments). Anyway, hope that helps.

Try doing as Maureen suggested. Either use the Delete Surface tool or move your camera to where the offending doors are visible. Open the door DBX while in that elevation view, click on the label tab, and then select "Hide In This View". Once you do that for all the necessary doors, either click 3D>Rebuild 3D or move your camera back into position.

Nice catch Maureen!! I personally haven't had this problem come up but I know there have been several users who have had this problem and this is the only solution I've heard anyone bring up that makes any sense. I read your posts a while back and gave you a point because I was 99% certain you were on to something but I finally just had the chance to test it and you are absolutely right. The labels showing through the house can be very easily caused and addressed this way. BTW, in addition to using delete surfaces you can also simply move the camera position. In fact, reusing cameras and moving them may very well be what triggers the problem for some people in the first place. I tried figuring this out for another user a while back and I couldn't reproduce or solve it. Anyway, well done! If I could give you more points I would.