Alaskan_Son

Here's a pretty quick rundown of one method... 1. Take an elevation view and Create a CAD Detail From View to get the appropriate snap points. 2. Draw an arc in that CAD Detail. 3. Select that arc and convert to a polyline. Set the number of segements to the lowest number that looks good. 4. Cut (Control + X) and then Paste Hold Position (Control + Alt + V) that polyline into your elevation view. OPTIONAL: While back in your elevation view, start at one end of your arced polyline and one by one systematically disconnect each line segment and use the floating edit handle (the name and shape escape me) to drag a new vertical polyline segment straight down beyond the lower edge of your wall. 5. Select your wall, click on the Break tool, put it in sticky mode, and then place a break directly below the end of every one of the line segments making up your arced polyline. 6. Reshape your wall by snapping all your new break points to the arced polyline. That's one way anywho.

Looks and sounds to me like all those symbols simply have black lettering which would explain why you can't see them on your black background.

Try this...

Thanks guys! I agree though. There should be a better way to do this. Honestly, in general, I think we should be able to rotate more things in elevation views.

Yep. Just an added tip on this... Once placed into your user library you can actually use the SAME symbol for multiple offsets. Simply switch to a 3D view, open the symbol in the library and then "paint" it onto your cabinet. Chief will always remember the symbol as it was originally placed so you can then proceed to use the same symbol for another cabinet in the same way with a different offset if you wish. I have it on my mental to-do list to make a video on the subject but this same technique can be used for all sorts of things. I especially find it useful for adjusting bounding box settings for both 3D moldings (changes the spacing) and for symbols added to parametric objects as accessories or attachments (allows the object to be narrower, wider, shorter, taller, deeper, or shallower than intended). It just gives you a way to pretty quickly and easily adjust things as necessary without creating extra symbols and without opening and closing the main object anymore than necessary.

Several different ways to accomplish this type of thing. Some of which have been mentioned above. Here's my take though on what I've personally found to be the cleanest and easiest method...

Sorry, I should probably mention that the above instructions were based on using a frameless cabinet and inset doors. For other styles you will likely have to adjust the Y origin a little further to get the appropriate backset.

Away from my computer Mark but why the extra stretch plane. I might be missing something and it's almost the same as your suggestion but I believe what I would do is this... Make a copy of the necessary door symbol and rename it to something like "Custom Back Slider", change the Y origin (probably 1"), adjust the bounding box width to make it just a hair smaller (maybe 1/2"), and change the X origin to maybe 1/4"-3/8". Changing the Y origin provides for the backset, adjusting the bounding box width allows the door to be slightly larger than the cabinet opening (usually necessary for sliders), and adjusting the x origin moves that larger door over a bit so you can space it from the cabinet box or even show the door in the open position. Once the symbol is adjusted appropriately apply it to one of the doors. Then make a copy of your new symbol and name it something like "Custom Front Slider", adjust the symbol to set the Y origin back to zero and apply it to the other door. To make slight adjustments to width or spacing, switch to a 3D view, adjust the X/Y/Z origin and/or bounding box settings of the appropriate symbol in your library and "paint" it onto your cabinet door (which will allow you to very quickly test your adjustments). Anyway, hope that helps.

Try doing as Maureen suggested. Either use the Delete Surface tool or move your camera to where the offending doors are visible. Open the door DBX while in that elevation view, click on the label tab, and then select "Hide In This View". Once you do that for all the necessary doors, either click 3D>Rebuild 3D or move your camera back into position.

Nice catch Maureen!! I personally haven't had this problem come up but I know there have been several users who have had this problem and this is the only solution I've heard anyone bring up that makes any sense. I read your posts a while back and gave you a point because I was 99% certain you were on to something but I finally just had the chance to test it and you are absolutely right. The labels showing through the house can be very easily caused and addressed this way. BTW, in addition to using delete surfaces you can also simply move the camera position. In fact, reusing cameras and moving them may very well be what triggers the problem for some people in the first place. I tried figuring this out for another user a while back and I couldn't reproduce or solve it. Anyway, well done! If I could give you more points I would.

Oh it crossed my mind Thanks Johnny,

I'm with Johnny on this for sure. Here's what I would prolee do... I didn't go over it in the video but there is quite a bit more that could be done to further perfect the object for different views and view types depending on what a person was after and the object could also simply be converted to a symbol once completed. Anyway, hope this helps.

I have done the same, but I must warn anyone venturing down this path... You can pretty easily end up with a situation where it is next to impossible to select and edit your material region if you use this method. Actually, the only ways to select the MR are in plan view or by temporarily changing the material definition for your gap material so that it is visible and selectable in 3D.

Not necessarily favoring the method per se but just to be clear, you absolutely CAN use material regions. You dont use them for the panels though. You use them to cut the grooves. Just place the MRs and then turn the layer off. If 3D model accuracy isn't super important you can use a single wall with a thin extra main layer to provide for the shadow line. If accuracy is more important you have to use 2 walls. Definitely doable though.

A little different situations but the same principles apply...

Weird. I actually read this thread earlier while I was away from my computer. I suspected it was a light reflection issue as well but wasn't able to open the plan to check it out. I even read your response and remember you mentioning that it was related to the sun and it's reflection. I didn't recall you mentioning the material properties though. I guess maybe I should have re-read things when I got back to the office eh?? My bad : ) Please accept some reputation points as a symbol of my sincerest remorselessness...err, remorsefulness...hmmm, I guess the word is just remorse. Anyway, sorry bout that. I would delete my post but then this back and forth would make no sense.

Or...you can adjust the material properties of your grass to turn the specular settings down to at or near zero.

Away from my computer so I may not get the exact specifics right but when you send a view to layout you should have the option to "Use Layout Line Scaling". At least for plan views I don't believe you can change this after-the-fact. It has to be set when first sending to layout...if memory serves me correctly anywho. EDIT: One more detail...Check the box if you want the same printed line width at any scale. Uncheck the box if you want the line widths to change proportionally based on your scale.

Yup. All symbol types except "Cabinet". Still not sure why they've left that one out.

Unless it's just a quick concept drawing I don't trust or use Chief's automated blind corners. I make those myself using the cabinet settings. That way you can set the box size and separation to exactly what you want and it won't jump around on you either.

Ed Zachary.

I here you guys regarding uplift, shear transfer etc. but there are many ways to deal with that including the exterior sheathing connection, framing brackets, proper plate nailing, SDS screws, etc. As Robert said...it's all in the details.

I for one always frame that way for the sake of framing efficiency. In order to frame and sheath that wall while it is lying down, you need a bottom plate. In addition to the issue Parkwest mentions above the problem with using the 2x8 sill as the bottom plate is 2 fold... Tipping it up onto the anchor bolts is a huge pain. Not only do the bolts themselves get in the way and hang up the wall while it is getting stood up, but they can also be very difficult to line up after the wall is stood up. The fact the wall has to be up above the anchor bolts in order to slide down over the top of them also makes doing it this way a lot more dangerous as the bottom of the wall has to be pretty well completely disconnected from anything while performing this part of the operation. I won't go into all the details and problems involved but suffice it to say that it can really be a messy pain. In order to frame the wall properly and to tip it up in the safest and most effective manner, the bottom of the 2x8 bottom plate would need to be lined up with the inside of the foundation wall. This gives a person no really good place to pop a straight line or to temporarily fasten that bottom plate in order to ensure the bottom is straight and secure before sheathing and standing it. If the 2x8 sill is installed first, most all of the problems are reduced or completely eliminated. Actually, about 12 years ago I started adding one extra step. I would install the sill plate, tighten down all the nuts, and then I would run around with a cut off tool and cut off all the excess anchor bolt. I would then install some 3/4" plywood or common pine strips that ran from nut to nut. This would completely eliminate the need to drill out and line up the bottom plate of the wall. It also had the advantage of allowing us to use standard studs and even build a single continuous wall between the living space and garage if we were building a zero entry foundation. Anyway, there are just a few reasons why the multiple plates can be a good thing.

You're welcome. A couple more quick notes based on the above... 1. object_type is just one of the many attributes we have available. A layout page table is nothing more than a schedule and that is its object type... thus the reason for using "schedule". It just makes sense to use that particular object type as a qualifier because inside schedules is about the only place that newline wouldn't work quite right. That macro just tells Ruby to display a newline everywhere except inside schedules where it will simply display a single space. 2. Not sure whether you thought of this or not, but you can always copy/paste in place that title block text box onto every page instead of placing it on page zero. That way you can get the break wherever you want it for each and every page.

Okay Mark, just got back to the office. Here are 2 options for you. Option 1: Use an evaluated owner context macro that looks something like this... if object_type.to_s.downcase == "schedule" result = " " else result = "\n" end NOTE: You could use any number of different attributes other than the object_type (layer for example) but that one seems to be as good as any for this particular item... Option 2: Don't use a macro at all. Just resize your title's text box to the maximum width you would like to see (should automatically uncheck Auto Width) and then Center Justify it. This will cause the text to display as multiple lines on your title block but not in the Layout Page table or in the project browser. Hope one of those options gets you what you want.