Alaskan_Son

I'm not entirely sure what's going on here or what version of Chief Architect/Home Designer is being used, but I think Eric gave the answer. Those settings are found in the Material tab. The is one setting for the material on the interior side of the door and another for the material on the exterior side of the door (2 different materials)...

Normal electrical items can be mounted directly to cabinets in X9. No need for the extra library anymore.

Couple more minor tips... 1. Consider copying and pasting all the attributes for one of each object type that you're working with to a Word document or similar so that you can print up a hard copy. I have several such pages handy so I can quickly and easily sort through the available attributes in a more easily readable manner. 2. When using the attributes in macros it can really make things easier to copy and paste the attribute name directly from the Object Properties Expanded Value field or from the aforementioned Word Document rather than typing it in manually. It's just really easy to mistype something otherwise and end up with an error.

Just group select everything on one of the two pages and hit control+X (cut). Now close that layout, open the other one, and hit control+alt+V (paste hold position). Then you can set that page as a template.

Definitely looks like a bit of a challenge that I don't have time to look into right now (looks like Eric got it for you anyway), but man...what a goofy design. I wonder why the asymmetrical windows? Is there some good reason I'm not seeing?

I opened the plan and I don't see any problem with the roof planes. I tried it using Reverse Plan... And I tried using Edit Area... What am I missing? Nice looking work by the way. EDIT: Now I see what you were talking about. I missed the upside ridge cap in the original plan orientation as you posted it. Not too difficult to fix as some of the other guys have mentioned (both above and in posts below) but please report this to tech support as a bug so that it gets fixed.

I feel like we basically already have that viewport functionality it's just not super intuitive. Try this...

I'm talking about using the control handles to physically change your Chief Architect 3D view window size. I'm away from my computer so I can't make any visuals but essentially all you should have to do is drag your library browser over to make the window narrower or if you have multiple monitors just resize the Chief Architect window by resizing the whole thing or by tiling another view and using that to resize the window.

Rob, resize your window so that it is the size and shape you need and then use active window size.

You actually don't even need to pull the connecting edge back to get it to work. It actually works just fine as it was. Cody, The keys to using the Join Roof Planes tool are to first make sure you have the necessary breaks so that the planes have a place to join (which you already have in this case) and then to click on the correct EDGE of the first roof plane followed by the correct EDGE of the second roof plane. It's a nuance that I had trouble with at first too.

It would require a whole new functionality that Chief still doesn't have...the ability to insert an object into a wall. It's something that some of us have been requesting for a while now. Chief can mount an object TO a wall, and we can have the object cut a hole in the wall (shape of that hole is extremely limited though). What we cannot do though is place that object INTO the wall unless we do so manually and cut the hole manually. It's not as easy as just fixing the symbol.

Joe's solution is a good one but you can also open the symbol, click on the 2D Block tab, and Generate Block and you'll get the box but then you'll have problems getting it to automatically mount to the wall. You can also click on the Options tab, change it to floor mounted, and set the origin offsets to zero but then you'll have to manually position it into the wall.

I wouldn't do it that way, but whatever works for you. In addition to the options I mentioned above, you can also simply use a cabinet for your column (depending on the design of course). In X9 those fixtures will automatically attach to cabinets.

Try these 2 things... Either add the symbol to your user library, Open Symbol while it is in the library, change the y offset to zero, and under the Options tab change it to Floor Mounted. Now you can use it anywhere you want... OR...place a small section of room divider alongside your p-solid and uncheck "Invisible Wall". Those are a couple options that I think should work for you.

Actually, if I recall correctly, we WERE the framer the first time I actually had firsthand experience with the system. It was an extremely complicated house too. Check out the pictures of the "RoseBerry Ridge Home"... http://www.rdesigninc.com/portfolio.html The learning curve was not bad though. I would definitely recommend a supervisor onsite that has a very clear understanding of what needs to happen though. There are many steps along the way where you'll find that your exterior membrane and/or insulation will need to be installed after one framing item but before the next. You'll almost need to have an extra person onsite a lot of the time specifically to coordinate and install those various items as necessary. And you didn't give me a whole lot of options between EPS and EPS : ) but yes, we use EPS. That is correct although the extreme thickness may also cause you to want to move windows and doors elsewhere in order to visually balance/center them.

I noticed that same thing. You just have to click on the little "Full Size" option in the lower left corner. I don't have the same problem on my iPhone though. Now on a side note, the Advanced Search seems to finally be working!!

I like this idea although I'm not sure whether the (-) should mean that the number has been rounded down or if it should perhaps mean that the real number is slightly smaller and has been rounded up. The latter makes more sense to me personally because that's how I notate that situation myself but I could adapt to either method. This is a very good idea though and I think you should post it as a suggestion.

Excellent sleuthing good sir, my hats off to you. Thanks. After testing it out and giving it some thought, I believe that you are correct. This behaviour should be considered a bug. I really have no problem with Chief rounding DISPLAYED values for the various fields as long as the actual values are maintained. The problem is that they don't seem to be maintaining these values throughout. There seems to be some data loss between the thickness field in the General tab and the wall definition. The funny thing is that if you change the Number Style to decimal inches before making your changes on the General tab that the values are calculated and carried though correctly.

Did my attached file not work for you?

You might consider trying that same approach here as well. I for one just skipped over this particular question because there's no way to give you an acurate answer without seeing a plan.

Just a side note, but you can fix the problem by adjusting your bottom margin to be zero or even a negative number. The required setting will depend on the height of your Rich Text. Give or take, the formula seems to be: (-(Text Height / 2)) + desired margin ...so, for 24" tall text with a 1" margin you want a bottom margin of -11" and for 2" tall text with a 1" margin you would want a bottom margin of 0".

That appears to be a problem specific to the Chief Blueprint Font. Nice catch. Please report it to tech support. Strangely enough, that same Chief Blueprint font acts just fine in X8.

I don't have any CAD details for it in Chief but we have worked with the REMOTE wall system. It shouldn't be too difficult for you to draw up your own details. The real key is just careful planning and detailing to keep that exterior membrane and insulation CONTINUOUS for the entire envelope...bottom of foundation and wrapping up all the way over the ceiling...that and careful air sealing. Additionally, you'll want to give careful thought to window and door placement along exterior walls to allow for the extra thickness of the foam, furring strips, siding, trim, etc. Not every design can be converted to the REMOTE wall system for this reason. Also give careful thought to window and door placement within the wall assembly. The REMOTE wall system will require some unique window details. If you're in a cold climate I would personally encourage you to keep your windows further toward the interior of the building in order to keep them warmer and therefore reduce any possible condensation problems. Anyway, I know that wasn't exactly your question but I thought I'd throw a few tips out there. EDIT: After giving this a little more thought it occurred to me that if you're going to utilize the system, you're really probably going to want (if not need) to draw up most of your own CAD details anyway. The details can vary greatly from one house to the next depending on foundation type, exterior attachments, roof type, exterior framed wall thickness, sheathing thickness, exterior membrane type, exterior insulation type and thickness, window bucking details, siding type and thickness, furring strip type and thickness (if any), etc. There are really just a lot of variables.

Unless you specify otherwise, Chief automatically connects "Island Rooms" using an invisible wall in order to provide for a more stable model (just something needed internally). You can turn the invisible wall layer off, or simply place that wall on it's own layer and turn THAT layer off. You can also optionally navigate to Edit>Default Settings>Walls>General Wall>Automatic Walls and Uncheck Connect Island Rooms but I wouldn't recommend that unless you plan to draw your own connecting wall. You might be fine, but I think you may find that you end up with unexpected results.

What might I ask is a "Certified CA"?