Alaskan_Son

Nice find Glenn. I'll definitely have to remember that one. Thanks.

Here's a quick video for whatever it's worth...

Thanks Chop I certainly do like that tool, no doubt about it.

I assume the OP meant "Show Length" and "Show Angle" (if I remember the correct terminology). My guess is that the text style is currently just too small to see. Select the line, check what layer it's on, and change the text style for that layer to something with a much larger text height.

I think I agree. We should have a preference for where that "Special Snapping" occurs at walls. Me for example? I would want that ledger over the top of the wall sheathing. The OP? He wants it at the framing layer. I don't think I've ever seen a situation where mounting it to the face of the exterior cladding surface was the way to go though (except maybe if the cladding and exterior sheathing are the same layer (i.e. T1-11).

I don't know about that. I think that the roof should be broken and reshaped in many instances. It could easily be argued in this particular instance that the whole roof plane edge in question should be dragged to that location anyway.

Doug, To date I have yet to find a way to "trick" Chief and put anything other than general framing members and CAD into a wall framing detail. I think your best bet at this point would be to do this: Create an elevation view that includes those object you have already drawn up. Set this camera up on the INTERIOR side of the wall in question. Create a CAD Detail From View of that camera. Trace over the line work as necessary to create some new closed polylines to represent those objects and add fills as necessary. NOTE: Depending on the object type you used to create those objects (slabs for example) you may be able to simply take a cross section and use the Auto Detail tool to automatically produce some filled polylines for yourself. Copy and Paste Hold Position all the CAD items you need into your wall framing detail. Next time you run into this you may be better off drawing any necessary items right in the wall framing detail using framing members if possible (which will then also show in 3D). Hope that helps.

There may be another way, but as far as I know, the only thing you can do is this: Open the roof plane and check "No Special Snapping". Drag the roof plane so that it snaps to your framing layer and then drag it a little further than that by exactly the distance of your fascia. You may or may not also want to break the roof plane edge and drag the overhanging sections of that same edge one way or another. Build framing for at least that roof plane. Hope that helps.

No. I do it all the time.

I'm afraid you've already heard my input. If you still don't get it, I'm sorry, but you may have to put a little more effort into following our directions. Jonathan's directions were good whether or not he used the exact same appliance or not (by the way, I don't recall the file format being part of your question either), and I think my directions were pretty good as well. P.S. Please remember that everyone here is donating their own personal time to help out. Its a little frustrating and insulting even when a person takes a bunch of time to help spell out an answer for you through multiple posts, or takes time to make you a custom video for you and you either don't even respond, convey no gratitude, or worse yet...delete the thread that another user had invested so much time and energy responding to (which it appears you may have done with the previous oven thread). I'd just suggest that you maybe try and be a little more considerate in the future if you want to continue to receive free professional expertise and guidance. Unfortunately the number of people that seem to value other people's time and energy on these online forums seems to be dwindling at best and it makes it rather difficult to justify spending our otherwise valuable time helping out.

I agree. This isn't something you can do in Chief; HOWEVER, I do think those 3D DWG files can be quite useful. I could have been a little more efficient with some of this stuff but hopefully this at least gives you something to work with...

Tools>Project Information

This feels like deja vu. I think Jonathan gave you a very good answer in the last thread. As I recall, he basically suggested the same method I used in the video I made you for the apron sink situation. Go back and take another look. I think the answer to your problems is to learn how to adjust the 2 side stiles either directly or by splitting face items vertically.

Bryan, I only tested very quickly, but maybe try changing your drawings margins. They seem to be set to some very odd dimensions... I just changed them both to zero and I don't seem to be having any problem printing your drawing without any of the problems you described.

Joe, I'm only saying that there is a way to get those things into the material list and there is a way to attach some additional information. That's all. It's not perfect, but it can certainly be done. I should have also noted that a person can also just add any desired info. for the object(s) directly to the material list itself. There are plenty of situations that could benefit from leaving the object as a primitive rather than converting to a symbol so it's good to know there are ways to do that and still include the object(s) in the material list.

You may not get a Components dbx but you can block the solid, open that block dbx, and under Schedule and Material List you can check Treat As One Object. This will allow you to utilize the Object Information fields to more usefully populate your material list.

I'm not sure I one hundred percent understand this, but just in case… You can actually use point-to-point move like I think you might be talking about. Select your object, click point to point, and then click on any two points in the plan and your object will be moved by exactly that amount and in that same direction. In other words, the two points do not have to be related to your existing object at all. You could for example snap your block to the edge of your wall, click point to point, and then use the edge of your wall adjacent to another properly positioned existing block and the center of the same existing block. Your SELECTED block will be moved that same distance and therefore right into position.

There are bajillions of ways to deal with centering objects like this. Using an insertion point is just the one that seemed to fit the bill best at first thought. A few other things I could also see using/exploring... - Copy/Paste in place an already centered block and slide it into position. - Placing your blocks in the front drawing group. - Centering on wall and then using the tab method to offset the item the appropriate distance. - Creating and using an actual 3D object along with origin offsets or other tricks to allow the object to snap to a known constant. This is one of my preferred methods as it increases the accuracy of your 3-D model as well. - Drawing temporary lines, boxes, or circles to snap to. - Using the tab method to relocate an existing object a specific distance, snapping to that object, and then moving both back over the same distance. - Drawing your objects on a different floor where you have something better to snap to and then cutting and pasting in place on the appropriate floor. - Using ALDO to temporarily turn off layers. - Using a Distributed Object Polyline …and I'm sure the list could go on. I think it's just one of those situations where you will have to find the method or combination of methods that works best for your workflow and/or for the particular situation.

Just use an insertion point. Offset the insertion point so that you can center it or even snap it to some constant...wall layer, wall center, or whatever works for you.

Set your room labels to Use Layer For Text Style... ...and then set the text style for your Room Labels layer differently in your different layer sets...

Thanks Richard. I actually do that all the time too. It wasn't the math I was actually having a hard time with though. For whatever reason I was drawing a blank with regard to exactly what numbers I was supposed to be calculating. I felt kinda silly when I realized all I needed to do was subtract bottom of sink height from the cabinet height. Just one of those mental blocks...I get them from time to time

The problem is that your "Walls, Foundation" layer is not set to be included in the material list... ...fix that by placing the little M in that box (checking Material List or just clicking in that box) and you should be good to go.

Not my cleanest or most organized work but hopefully this helps...

Truth is that you ARE using active defaults. In fact, EVERYBODY uses them. They just don't realize it. There are always a group of various defaults active whether you actually use the Active Defaults dialog to change them or not. There are just 2 ways to change those currently active defaults... 1. Piecemeal by using the Active Defaults dialog. 2. All at once using an Annotation Set. When you switch to a specific Annotation Set you are just changing all your active defaults (the group of CAD, dimension, text, callout, etc. defaults that are currently active).

I won't argue that this stuff could be made easier but part of the reason this stuff is so complex is because there is such much misinformation out there with regard to what Annotation Sets really do. I only have a few minutes so I'll make this quick... Annotation Sets do not control what layer your text, dimensions, CAD, etc. are placed on, its the Active Defaults that do that... ...More specifically: Your Current CAD layer is the layer any new CAD will be placed onto Your dimensions will be placed onto the layer set in your currently active Dimension Default... Your text will be placed onto the layer set in your currently active Text Default... Etc. etc. If you want to change what layer these things are automatically placed on, you either need to change the layer for the existing defaults for CAD, Rich Text, Text, etc. as shown above or you need to create new defaults for those items. You can set which one of those Defaults is currently active by simply switching the appropriate default in Active Defaults as shown above. All that Annotation Sets really do is activate a whole set of the aforementioned defaults. They can certainly increase productivity but in and of themselves, they don't actually do what so many people say they do. It's very similar to the faulty statement made in the first post of this thread... You don't send items to a Layer Set. You can change what is displayed by changing the layer set, but it's not the layer set that is controlling the display of those items...it's the settings for the layer itself. Switching the layer set simply switches to a layer set where the layer in question is set a little differently. Similarly, annotation sets don't control the display of anything. They're simply a quick way to change several Active Defaults at the same time. Again, the real key piece of information I'm trying to get across here is that its the Active Defaults that really control which layer all your annotations are placed onto and you don't even need to use Annotation Sets to take advantage of them. You can simply use Active Defaults. Annotation Sets just work better for a lot of people because you can use them to change all those Active Defaults along with the Layer Set all at once.