Alaskan_Son

I think you'll find that Chief isn't very well suited to handling multiple structural options in the same plan file and that you'll want to do a Save As and create another plan for most of your options (6 plans for 6 different front elevations). If the options are non-structural (cabinetry, flooring, wall coverings, color schemes, fixture placement, etc.) then you can place the objects onto different layers and turn them on and off as necessary in many cases, but if the options include walls, roof planes, doors, windows, etc. then you're better off using multiple plan files.

Not sure what to tell you about this one without seeing an example. You need to make sure you're using the appropriate mode. The one on the left will move only the selected edge while the one on the right will move the entire object...

Post that DWG file here and I'm relatively certain you'll have an answer in just a few minutes. More often than not, the line work is just hiding somewhere.

I should have mentioned that you probably need to repeat that process on every floor to find any and all rogue objects. It doesn’t sound like you are far enough from the origin for that to be your problem.

You’re welcome. For those less mathematically inclined you can also figure it using CAD and any number of methods. Essentially though... Draw the side profile of your post, extend the 2 sides till they meet, and then measure the distance from that point to the base.

Yes, but only if YOU have the capability. Don't get into this thinking Chief will produce those documents for you. It won't. If you don't have the know how to create those documents yourself, Chief isn't going to do you any good in this regard. Its kinda like Homeowner Joe buying a new nail gun and thinking its going to give him the ability to build a new house. On the flipside though, if you already have the know how to create a set of plans on paper, then Chief can serve you well.

Use the math... 5.50" base 4.50" at top 57.25" tall You are looking for the sides to slope in 0.50" over 57.25" right? And in order to reach the apex, the side would need to slope 2.75" (5.50"/2) right? 57.25 / 0.50 = 114.50 (this number essentially represents your slope 57.25 in 0.50 or 114.50 in 1.00) 114.5 x 2.75 = 314.875 or 314 7/8" (this number represents where that same slope reaches the apex) In other words you are going up 57 1/2" and over 1/2". This is equivalent to going up 114 1/2" and over 1". We just needed to find out how far up we needed to go to reach the center of the post or 2 3/4", so we needed to go up 114 1/2" 2.75 times.

You've inadvertent drawn something way out in space probably or you've drawn really far from the origin (0,0). In plan view; switch to your all on layer set, hit Control+A (Select All),and then hit F6 (Fill Window). Follow your selection to the extreme edge(es) to find any rogue object(s) and delete them. Either that or use Edit Area (All Floors) to move your plan closer to the origin.

You'll get more productive answers if you post the plan.

At least 4 other solutions the come to mind... Use a reference layer set and just dimension the floor above. The dimensions would remain live in this case Use a reference layer set along with point to point dimensions. Just turn the points off, give them the invisible line style, or reduce the radii to zero. Use a reference layer set and polylines (or molding polylines) with arrows and custom macros. Make your foundation wall a double layer wall and set the Dimensions To layer to the innermost layer.

Yeah, not me...I use vector views, technical illustrations, and line drawings pretty heavily. Actually, sometimes I use them very specifically for tile layouts and so the pattern can be pretty important to me.

Scott, I believe this particular issue is almost 100% Chief related and I have faith they’ll have this fixed here in the next couple weeks.

Yessir I did.

Oh dear, sorry Mark, I actually didn't even notice you attached a plan. I only saw the library objects. I was actually wondering because I know you usually include a plan. It was just kind hiding up there above the picture. At any rate, I see you're basically doing the same as I described except that I'm not messing with the stretch planes. I'm just leaving that alone. The "shelf" will resize as necessary. The only thing I've manipulated at all is the y offset and even that is only necessary for certain cabinet types. Also, my vector view problem is actually VERY minor...actually less of an issue than I was thinking. Maybe it has something to do with your stretch planes or perhaps your symbol has a zero thickness face on that one side? I don't know, here's what mine looks like though...

Hey Mark, I won’t go into this in great detail because I know you understand how to manipulate symbols as well as just about anybody, but in case it hadn’t occurred to you just yet, there’s another capability we have in X10 that you might want to explore...well, 2 sort of: 1. You can create say a 24”x24”x24” liner with very thin sides much like what you’ve already done and add that to your cabinet via the cabinet dbx as a shelf. Just set the shelf to be 0” from previous and make it the same height as your opening. For face frames or “modified” euro style face frames that’s all you need to do. For true frameless just set set the Y offset to -3/4”. Biggest downside to this method is that you either have to include the shelves with the symbol or you have to add the shelves manually. 2. Create the same aforementioned liner except make one for each height. Set the bounding box height for all of them to something very small...1/16” maybe. You can then add this to your cabinet as a shelf again. This time however, just set your shelf to be 1/16” tall. Using this method, you still have the ability to add other shelves via the cabinet dbx. Biggest downside to this method IMO is simply that you don’t get a sharp line where the shelves meet the cabinet...unless maybe if you use some custom library object for those too, although I haven’t tested that one out yet.

Not sure I’ve run into that particular problem before and I’m away from my computer now but here are the first things that come to mind... 1. Maybe change the second garage room type to an exterior room of some kind. A porch or court maybe. 2. If the above causes some other problems maybe use a room divider set to be .01” thick and draw walls to enclose a very small room just outside the door in question and make that room an exterior room. Make the room SUPER SMALL so you can’t even see it without zooming way in. I’m actually not totally sure if either of those options would work but they might be worth a shot.

You're welcome Chop. Thanks for upgrading me from unhelpful back to simply neutral and of no affect, it means a lot I’m really going places now!!

You're welcome. Thank YOU for your support. BTW, I also want to send a shout out to whoever appreciates the help Robert and I have offered. Classy! I fixed yours for you Robert. Anyway, whoever you guys are, please shoot me an email or PM so I can be sure to put you on my short list people not to help.

I can verify, they all seem to be a single material. For now I guess your best bet is to add to your user library and "fix" them...

See if this gets you started...

You bet : )

Most noticeable upgrade ever...hands down.

At least 2 ways... 1. Control+Tab followed be Enter 2. Edit>Preferences>Text>Options>Text Specification Enter Key...UNCHECK Create New Line. You just have to get in the habit of hitting Shift+Enter to create a new line.

You have to make sure and CLOSE the plan before you zip it.

I don't personally use the material list very often so that is a non-issue for me personally but... The material list: The additional molding gets added to the material list just fine albeit as its own line item depending on how you have your molding drawn and spec'ed elsewhere. Reasons for not using the room molding: Any adjustments to the room or cabinet placement and you have to adjust your molding polylines again. With the separate molding polylines you can leave the room molding automatic and just move the cabinet along with its moldings. There are just a couple of the most notable reasons anyway.