Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Precisely. I commonly advise people that the forum is about the worst way to try and learn Chief. A great way to pick up some great tips and advice on various challenges we run into, but absolutely terrible (and expensive time-wise) as a primary learning source.
  2. Its not an oversight Joe. You will only get that data to show up if the wall is part of a defined room set to be conditioned.
  3. Nice job Joe. The new "Collections" sure are a great step and just what the doctor ordered for a good handful of our needs.
  4. Just don't set it up as a reference floor if you don't want it in that view. Set up only the desired floor(s) in the desired Plan Views.
  5. It's covered in the Help Files and Reference Manual though... "...A Baseline drawn along a wall should be drawn over the outer edge of the wall’s main layer. It tries to snap to that layer. • The elevation of the top plate is defined by the ceiling height in the room. If the roof plane is not drawn over a wall, it’s height is based on the default ceiling height value for the current floor. • If a Baseline is drawn over the top of any other roof plane, the Baseline height equals the height of the existing roof plane at the point where you started drawing..." It's for this reason and many others that I'm constantly trying to encourage people to make the Help Files the first place they go. You can simply click Launch Help and search for various topics (which will typically provide links to more related topics), you can click Launch Help with an object selected and it will take you straight to some of the most relevant information for that object type, or you can click on the Help button in the various dialog boxes and it will take you straight to the part of the manual that describes that specific dialog box, what all the settings and for, and how they're intended to be used. The Help have to be the single most underused resource at our disposal. I personally probably use them on a daily basis. The problem with using videos is that A: They may be using an older version of the program (its simply unrealistic to think they can redo all videos with every new release) and so the tools and processes they are using may be outdated, B: The structure they're working with may be substantially different enough that the processes being used can't really be applied to your project, or C: You watch the whole video only to find out that they skipped over the one thing you were hoping to find out.
  6. Rotating the baseline will do it as will changing the baseline angle along the z axis
  7. Sounds to me like you need to change your rafter size in the roof structure dialog.
  8. Yes, there are a few ways to coerce Chief into doing this. Can you be a little more specific though because the best method depends a little on the specifics.
  9. Just turn the primary (and maybe secondary) contour layers off. No need to do any of the rest. You could also optionally just change the color for those layers to something totally different (I like a light blue).
  10. That's the space between the top of your roof plane and the ceiling defined for your roof plane. If you were to frame that roof and turn the rafter framing layer on then you would see rafters in there.
  11. Doesn't work with the elliptical ("3 centered") arch.
  12. Looks like all you need is a double door, and an arched window with custom muntins... Door test.plan
  13. That’s actually NOT what he said. Re-read that post.
  14. Elevation Regions are nothing more than a series of elevation lines that have been closed (i.e. a closed elevation polyline). Once closed though, you get a couple extra options, one of which is to set the interior to be flat. For the desired end result in the OP, an elevation region set to have a flat interior is the most logical choice (and what I would personally use), but a person could also either add a series of additional 0” elevation lines to keep the automated smoothing in check, OR set the smoothing to linear. The latter may cause problems elsewhere on the terrain though if you needed the automated smoothing for other areas.
  15. This is not the appropriate channel for that. You should send things like this directly to tech support if you really want Chief to look into it.
  16. I haven't personally used it, but I know its actually required on the soffits for fireproofing in some areas when houses are too close to the property line. And I know I have several friend and acquaintances in the drywall industry who have done TONS of exterior drywall in Washington and Hawaii...ecven just for aesthetics. So yes, it is done, and its not all that uncommon.
  17. Not sure what "WRA symbols" are but I used a large variety of objects for that particular project including cabinet (for the boxes) tons of multi-copied shelves and partitions for the modular storage slots, custom symbols for the diamond bins and wine bottle disaplay racks, and maybe some generic library objects and moldings for a few other things. I needed to draw this one super accurately though because my drawings were being used to produce the custom cabinetry.
  18. 2 ways that immediately come to mind. Open the desired plan view, change the layer set to what it should be, and SAVE PLAN VIEW. Right click on the desired Plan View in the Project Browser, Open Object, and then adjust the various items as necessary
  19. That's where the manual toe kick comes into play. It's more accurate anyway. Those are typically installed as a separate molding and not part of the cabinet.
  20. I feel like I must be missing something because the Cabinets, Module Lines layer should do exactly what you're looking for.