Alaskan_Son

Absolutely makes sense. I have always counted stairs twice myself. Not only is there commonly usable space beneath the stairs but they require at least twice as much of everything that occupies said space, and to say they double the time required to design and build that space would be a gross understatement.

Better yet: Default Settings>Walls>General Wall>Connect Island Rooms This settings should really always be checked for most people and most situations.

Not sure what to tell you on this one. It works for me. Model something using any number of methods and position it to where you want it. You could even just draw a short section of railing wall off to the side as I suggested for the first option, select that railing, click the Convert Selected to Symbol tool, and then position that newly created symbol in your opening.

Place as freestanding symbol OR draw railing off to the side, set to No Room Definition and then reposition.

Never had anyone ask for square footage using those parameters. I could see why certain departments could potentially want that information though. It may not be a usable living space number, but it could definitely be a valid number for lot coverage or other overall footprint/building envelope information. As a more extreme example, around here we occasionally use something called the REMOTE Wall System which is comprised of Framing Exterior sheathing Building wrap Exterior Foam Insulation Furring strips Siding That could mean an extra 5-1/2" or more of conditioned space or building envelope around the entire perimeter (energy code stuff), and if we use 6" of foam, up to an extra 8" of building footprint around the entire perimeter (lot coverage stuff)...so again, it could make sense that certain departments would want this information under certain circumstances. Not at all normal in my experience though especially for standard construction.

That catalog doesn't actually contain any cabinets. What it contains are door and drawer styles as well as moldings, trim components, and wood species/finishes. Those are simply applied to one of Chief Architect's generic cabinets. A single cabinet can have components from any number of manufacturers. You'll just have to manually add the manufacturer name to the cabinets as @DBCooper already mentioned.

You have me curious where you were expecting the manufacturer name to come from. Can you expand on that? Were the cabinets or their doors/drawers pulled from a specific manufacturer catalog that you were expecting would be automatically recognized by the %manufacturer% macro?

Haven't explored WHY its happening, but what you're seeing is your Slab Footing Wall from your foundation level extending up from below.

DraftSight is a really good alternative to AutoCAD and was the 2D software I used back when I needed it. It is however not really comparable to Chief at all as it isi essentially just a 2D CAD software and not a full architectural 3D modeling software like Chief Architect, Softplan, Revit, Vectorworks, ArchiCAD, AllPlan, Sketchup, or some of the others being discussed. Like AutoCAD, it does have some 3D capabilities but they're pretty limited.

Yes. CAD>Lines>Line Style Management>Select the desired Style>Copy

This^^^ except that you might actually want to use Custom Muntins for all just to help be sure that they actually align properly. Quick Tip: You can actually apply the muntins after mulling by selecting the mulled unit and then hitting Tab to get to the component window.

My personal workflow: Draw As-Built Plan Save As Demo Plan Modify that plan by removing objects as necessary and changing wall types to Demo Walls where desired. You can optionally use the Wall Hatching tool instead of changing wall type depending on your preferences. Once Demo Plan is completed, Save As Proposed Plan Make desired changes to that new plan using the As-Built plan along with a carefully created As-Built Reference Layer Set as a Referenced Floor.

I agree that when a person has both the time and ability to articulate why they find a post unhelpful and when there's good reason to believe that doing so may be fruitful, that they should do so. I do however think its a little more nuanced than what your presenting. a few things to consider: It's not always about a counter idea or opinion. Sometimes a person is just being downright rude. In such cases posting a response would likely just be a waste of time. Sometimes there's a clear measure of arrogance being displayed where (again) we know we would be wasting our time responding. Sometimes is abundantly clear that a person or group is simply entrenched in an idea and that no amount of convincing is going to change their mind. That doesn't however mean that the post isn't truly unhelpful. We know we don't have time for the ensuing argument and so we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Even IF we might be able to change someones mind, sometimes we don't have time for what we know will elicit an ongoing argument. So again, we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Sometimes the quantity of unhelpful posts from a user is such that we don't want to continually drag them through the mud or make them feel insulted. A down-vote might sting a little but I'd argue that its better than hearing "you're wrong" over and over again. Sometimes we don't have the time, desire, or even the vocabulary to argue our point or explain why the post is wrong or unhelpful. I find myself in this particular situation quite a bit. We can quickly read through 30 topics with 100 posts and find half a dozen incorrect, misleading, or otherwise unhelpful posts. That doesn't however mean that we have time to address each and every one. This is particularly true on active threads with a lot of posts from several different members. Sometimes its just unreasonable to post a meaningful response to everyone. I for one wish that the forum had a comment section below each forum post for reasons exactly like the one being discussed. It would make it a lot easier and less disruptive to the conversation if we could simply have a smaller discussion based on a specific post.

In this particular instance, it looks like you need to drag out an extra Attic Wall section on Floor 2 and set to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom (Roof tab): NOTE: It actually requires 2 attic walls because of the intersection with the pantry walls but you should be able to drag out a single wall. The break should occur automatically. Just make sure both walls have the correct settings.

I never understand the reason for downloading catalogs you may or may not need. Why not just wait till you need them? Also, why not simply migrate bonus and manufacturer catalogs and then update them?

You bet. You might consider changing the "Solution". Modifying the wall type might help address the issue but its really just coincidental and isn't a proper answer. Changing the wall type just so happens to cause some breaks to occur that in turn separates that 1 long wall into 3 sections, placing the 2 remaining outside wall sections completely disconnected from that landing. The real problem is the floor height issue.

The floor heights are different on your landing than they are your main deck.

No. Simply select the Terrain, and set the Subfloor Height above Terrain to be +/- 2,600 ft. You might have to play with that number to get it right where you want it.

It works just fine. You need to convert the appropriate layers to elevation data and terrain perimeter during the import process.

Open the Deck Room>Structure tab>Floor Structure (Planks, Joists)>Specify the appropriate layer as Framing.

I struggle with this one myself and have often wondered what the best approach is. We can only assume what the frame size is and further can only assume what the rough opening is so we have to make some assumptions along the way. A few of my random thoughts for whatever they're worth: It can help to measure to the center of the windows and then note the width, height, and any desired frame, casing, and/or reveal information. This way any discrepancies are shared with each side of the window. Using a single side results in all the errors being on one side which typically causes a lot more issues. Remember that we have the ability to dimension to outside of casing in Chief. With this in mind, you can take note of the casing width and reveal, measure outside of casing to outside of casing while you're onsite, and then while you're drawing in Chief, you can dimension to casing and size the window using the dimension instead of the window dialog. You can also do any math and simply enter outside of casing measurements directly in the dialog followed by + or - and then an adjustment factor (i.e. 31 1/4" - 7 1/4" followed by the tab key).

What happened to yours?

I think you're full of $#!+

I think he is trying to add to a Child Tool Palette which isn't possible.