Alaskan_Son

My personal workflow: Draw As-Built Plan Save As Demo Plan Modify that plan by removing objects as necessary and changing wall types to Demo Walls where desired. You can optionally use the Wall Hatching tool instead of changing wall type depending on your preferences. Once Demo Plan is completed, Save As Proposed Plan Make desired changes to that new plan using the As-Built plan along with a carefully created As-Built Reference Layer Set as a Referenced Floor.

I agree that when a person has both the time and ability to articulate why they find a post unhelpful and when there's good reason to believe that doing so may be fruitful, that they should do so. I do however think its a little more nuanced than what your presenting. a few things to consider: It's not always about a counter idea or opinion. Sometimes a person is just being downright rude. In such cases posting a response would likely just be a waste of time. Sometimes there's a clear measure of arrogance being displayed where (again) we know we would be wasting our time responding. Sometimes is abundantly clear that a person or group is simply entrenched in an idea and that no amount of convincing is going to change their mind. That doesn't however mean that the post isn't truly unhelpful. We know we don't have time for the ensuing argument and so we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Even IF we might be able to change someones mind, sometimes we don't have time for what we know will elicit an ongoing argument. So again, we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Sometimes the quantity of unhelpful posts from a user is such that we don't want to continually drag them through the mud or make them feel insulted. A down-vote might sting a little but I'd argue that its better than hearing "you're wrong" over and over again. Sometimes we don't have the time, desire, or even the vocabulary to argue our point or explain why the post is wrong or unhelpful. I find myself in this particular situation quite a bit. We can quickly read through 30 topics with 100 posts and find half a dozen incorrect, misleading, or otherwise unhelpful posts. That doesn't however mean that we have time to address each and every one. This is particularly true on active threads with a lot of posts from several different members. Sometimes its just unreasonable to post a meaningful response to everyone. I for one wish that the forum had a comment section below each forum post for reasons exactly like the one being discussed. It would make it a lot easier and less disruptive to the conversation if we could simply have a smaller discussion based on a specific post.

In this particular instance, it looks like you need to drag out an extra Attic Wall section on Floor 2 and set to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom (Roof tab): NOTE: It actually requires 2 attic walls because of the intersection with the pantry walls but you should be able to drag out a single wall. The break should occur automatically. Just make sure both walls have the correct settings.

I never understand the reason for downloading catalogs you may or may not need. Why not just wait till you need them? Also, why not simply migrate bonus and manufacturer catalogs and then update them?

You bet. You might consider changing the "Solution". Modifying the wall type might help address the issue but its really just coincidental and isn't a proper answer. Changing the wall type just so happens to cause some breaks to occur that in turn separates that 1 long wall into 3 sections, placing the 2 remaining outside wall sections completely disconnected from that landing. The real problem is the floor height issue.

The floor heights are different on your landing than they are your main deck.

No. Simply select the Terrain, and set the Subfloor Height above Terrain to be +/- 2,600 ft. You might have to play with that number to get it right where you want it.

It works just fine. You need to convert the appropriate layers to elevation data and terrain perimeter during the import process.

Open the Deck Room>Structure tab>Floor Structure (Planks, Joists)>Specify the appropriate layer as Framing.

I struggle with this one myself and have often wondered what the best approach is. We can only assume what the frame size is and further can only assume what the rough opening is so we have to make some assumptions along the way. A few of my random thoughts for whatever they're worth: It can help to measure to the center of the windows and then note the width, height, and any desired frame, casing, and/or reveal information. This way any discrepancies are shared with each side of the window. Using a single side results in all the errors being on one side which typically causes a lot more issues. Remember that we have the ability to dimension to outside of casing in Chief. With this in mind, you can take note of the casing width and reveal, measure outside of casing to outside of casing while you're onsite, and then while you're drawing in Chief, you can dimension to casing and size the window using the dimension instead of the window dialog. You can also do any math and simply enter outside of casing measurements directly in the dialog followed by + or - and then an adjustment factor (i.e. 31 1/4" - 7 1/4" followed by the tab key).

What happened to yours?

I think you're full of $#!+

I think he is trying to add to a Child Tool Palette which isn't possible.

It won't be me. I've personally never needed it.

I see. Yeah, I never uploaded to YouTube using that tool. I always uploaded directly through YouTube itself. I’m away from my computer, so I can’t check myself, but what does the share button do?

I’m unfamiliar with the feature you’re talking about. I always just copied links directly from YouTube.

To rotate objects for reuse in another plan, either group select or use one of the Edit Area tools. The latter group of tools are far more robust and do things a simple group select cannot. The Rotate Plan View tool is the wrong tool for the job and essentially just rotates the drawing board. Although there are a couple other good uses, I typically only use that tool for temporarily reorienting myself for off angle work and for Plot Plans.

are we talking about standalone licenses or additional licenses? Because there’s a big difference between the two. Additional licenses have never been transferable, so I’m not sure if anyone should be surprised.

Not sure. You should definitely always send in requests for things you need though. The more request the get, the higher up the priority list it will move.

Maybe try to use a Material List Polyline instead.

As Mark alluded to, I don't believe you'll find that setting in the Defaults, only in the actual dimension string after the fact.

Open Row Object is a good way for sure. Thanks for the reminder. The Components tab on the other hand doesn't actually work like that. It will only change the Description as it reports to the Material List. If its just the Description we're talking about, there's one other way too: Open the cabinet, select the Face Item, click Edit, and then click on the Components tab. For a Top/Appliance or fixture this would be done on the Accessories tab.

Specifically what information are you attempting to change? The Label? The Description? Something else? To change the Description if your cabinet only has ONE fixture: Select the cabinet, click the Open Symbol tool, and simply change the Symbol Name. To change the Label (and/or the Description if the cabinet has more than one fixture): Drop the appliance into your plan as a freestanding object, change the Label, Add to Library (just temporarily even), and then place in your cabinet. I for one don't usually place fixtures as parts of the cabinet though. For accuracy reasons and for more refined control, I much prefer to just place the opening in my cabinets and then place the fixtures as freestanding objects.

By the way, you can also precisely shape your wall while its still straight AND THEN curve it.