Alaskan_Son

Having only taken Cedreo for a quick spin, I can't tell you for certain, but I can say with about 99% certainty that at best it offers about 5% of the capabilities you get with Chief. Its not even in the same league. The program seems to have been designed with the goal of quickly designing and visualizing spaces and little else. No CAD tools, no wall, floor, ceiling, or roof assembly layers, no framing, no parametric object components, no schedules or materials lists, not much of anything aside from basic 3D surfaces. As a tool for Construction Documents it seems almost useless. Its like comparing the calculator app to an Excel spreadsheet. If however all you need is the ability to quickly visualize a space or draw a floor layout...still no. I'd go with one of the Home Designer products.

I make it policy not to import feces.

Is there a question in there? Or are you just looking for a cookie?

It surely sounds that way.

HECK YEAH!!

I'm curious what this one is. Per the wording, it seems to be describing something we already have.

Whoa. This is huge.

Section 3.7 clearly states that under stairs there is no specified height requirement. I could see an argument for any enclosed or inaccessible area beneath the stairs as being considered unfinished but But BUT...considering that the area is typically both minimal and inaccessible just like any other areas covered by interior partitions, exterior walls, siding, chases, furred walls, etc. then I'd say the intent of the code makes it relatively clear that it should be measured. Its inside the finished footprint and not unlike any other finished area of the house where there exists areas covered by unusable voids, trim, wall framing, wall surfaces, etc.. If you leave it out of the calculations then you head down a path to leaving other inaccessible areas out as well (chimney chases, thick walls, cabinet voids, etc.)

You're one of the gitterduners. Nice work man.

Good information. I'd like to expand a bit upon it though. The top one can actually be achieved in large part by simply setting Terrain Surface Smoothing to Linear: Any other setting though and you are correct. We get a wave behavior: I think the thing people tend to expect less though is how the terrain is interpolated beyond the specified elevation data because we have to remember the interpolation and the resulting "wave" does have to continue: And what is even more difficult to account for is what happens when additional elevation data is added that directly affects what happens between the previously specified points: It should also be noted that the above examples are perfectly orthogonal projections. This is all much further complicated by off angle elevation lines/elevation points (and the resulting 3D waves) as well as the fact that the interpolation can start to affect objects around corners (around the end of elevation lines and around the ends of terrain breaks). I think the bottom line is that we have to remember that interpolation is taking place and that any given piece of elevation data can have a far reaching effect. Any modifications to elevation data at one location can have effects across the entire terrain. To limit these effects you may want to place new elevation data at your desired extents to help "lock" those particular locations. In the example given by the OP, one thing I would consider doing is generating a terrain based on the elevation points and then using the Contours tab to generate and label an adequate number of contours that I could then use to help add some of the aforementioned "locks". I could either add additional points at various perimeter locations, or I could even create a CAD Detail From View, copy and paste the various contours, convert those to properly defined elevation lines, and then use those instead of or even in addition to any number of elevation points.

Absolutely makes sense. I have always counted stairs twice myself. Not only is there commonly usable space beneath the stairs but they require at least twice as much of everything that occupies said space, and to say they double the time required to design and build that space would be a gross understatement.

Better yet: Default Settings>Walls>General Wall>Connect Island Rooms This settings should really always be checked for most people and most situations.

Not sure what to tell you on this one. It works for me. Model something using any number of methods and position it to where you want it. You could even just draw a short section of railing wall off to the side as I suggested for the first option, select that railing, click the Convert Selected to Symbol tool, and then position that newly created symbol in your opening.

Place as freestanding symbol OR draw railing off to the side, set to No Room Definition and then reposition.

Never had anyone ask for square footage using those parameters. I could see why certain departments could potentially want that information though. It may not be a usable living space number, but it could definitely be a valid number for lot coverage or other overall footprint/building envelope information. As a more extreme example, around here we occasionally use something called the REMOTE Wall System which is comprised of Framing Exterior sheathing Building wrap Exterior Foam Insulation Furring strips Siding That could mean an extra 5-1/2" or more of conditioned space or building envelope around the entire perimeter (energy code stuff), and if we use 6" of foam, up to an extra 8" of building footprint around the entire perimeter (lot coverage stuff)...so again, it could make sense that certain departments would want this information under certain circumstances. Not at all normal in my experience though especially for standard construction.

That catalog doesn't actually contain any cabinets. What it contains are door and drawer styles as well as moldings, trim components, and wood species/finishes. Those are simply applied to one of Chief Architect's generic cabinets. A single cabinet can have components from any number of manufacturers. You'll just have to manually add the manufacturer name to the cabinets as @DBCooper already mentioned.

You have me curious where you were expecting the manufacturer name to come from. Can you expand on that? Were the cabinets or their doors/drawers pulled from a specific manufacturer catalog that you were expecting would be automatically recognized by the %manufacturer% macro?

Haven't explored WHY its happening, but what you're seeing is your Slab Footing Wall from your foundation level extending up from below.

DraftSight is a really good alternative to AutoCAD and was the 2D software I used back when I needed it. It is however not really comparable to Chief at all as it isi essentially just a 2D CAD software and not a full architectural 3D modeling software like Chief Architect, Softplan, Revit, Vectorworks, ArchiCAD, AllPlan, Sketchup, or some of the others being discussed. Like AutoCAD, it does have some 3D capabilities but they're pretty limited.

Yes. CAD>Lines>Line Style Management>Select the desired Style>Copy

This^^^ except that you might actually want to use Custom Muntins for all just to help be sure that they actually align properly. Quick Tip: You can actually apply the muntins after mulling by selecting the mulled unit and then hitting Tab to get to the component window.

My personal workflow: Draw As-Built Plan Save As Demo Plan Modify that plan by removing objects as necessary and changing wall types to Demo Walls where desired. You can optionally use the Wall Hatching tool instead of changing wall type depending on your preferences. Once Demo Plan is completed, Save As Proposed Plan Make desired changes to that new plan using the As-Built plan along with a carefully created As-Built Reference Layer Set as a Referenced Floor.

I agree that when a person has both the time and ability to articulate why they find a post unhelpful and when there's good reason to believe that doing so may be fruitful, that they should do so. I do however think its a little more nuanced than what your presenting. a few things to consider: It's not always about a counter idea or opinion. Sometimes a person is just being downright rude. In such cases posting a response would likely just be a waste of time. Sometimes there's a clear measure of arrogance being displayed where (again) we know we would be wasting our time responding. Sometimes is abundantly clear that a person or group is simply entrenched in an idea and that no amount of convincing is going to change their mind. That doesn't however mean that the post isn't truly unhelpful. We know we don't have time for the ensuing argument and so we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Even IF we might be able to change someones mind, sometimes we don't have time for what we know will elicit an ongoing argument. So again, we'd rather just make it known that we think the post is unhelpful and then move on. Sometimes the quantity of unhelpful posts from a user is such that we don't want to continually drag them through the mud or make them feel insulted. A down-vote might sting a little but I'd argue that its better than hearing "you're wrong" over and over again. Sometimes we don't have the time, desire, or even the vocabulary to argue our point or explain why the post is wrong or unhelpful. I find myself in this particular situation quite a bit. We can quickly read through 30 topics with 100 posts and find half a dozen incorrect, misleading, or otherwise unhelpful posts. That doesn't however mean that we have time to address each and every one. This is particularly true on active threads with a lot of posts from several different members. Sometimes its just unreasonable to post a meaningful response to everyone. I for one wish that the forum had a comment section below each forum post for reasons exactly like the one being discussed. It would make it a lot easier and less disruptive to the conversation if we could simply have a smaller discussion based on a specific post.

In this particular instance, it looks like you need to drag out an extra Attic Wall section on Floor 2 and set to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom (Roof tab): NOTE: It actually requires 2 attic walls because of the intersection with the pantry walls but you should be able to drag out a single wall. The break should occur automatically. Just make sure both walls have the correct settings.

I never understand the reason for downloading catalogs you may or may not need. Why not just wait till you need them? Also, why not simply migrate bonus and manufacturer catalogs and then update them?