JKEdmo

Thank you. I forgot about those. D'oh! I still wonder if using a regular window is realistic or just too much trouble... Jim

Thanks DB. I've got some homework! Jim

Trying to model this triangular gable end wall louver: I've gotten pretty close... But only after too many minutes of tweaking and fussing.... I can't help but think I'm making this difficult and missing some morsel of magic. Is there an easier method to this? Thanks, Jim P.S. Eric Solver had an earlier suggestion to use a Tudor Arch shape with radius set to zero. Gets the overall shape right, but the louver infill does not show.

Hello, I'm trying to match this offset paneled shutter style to align with my offset double hung window. Does anyone know if this is doable with the standard tools, or does a custom window shutter need to be created? Real world: Virtual Chief world: Thanks again, Jim

Thanks Ryan. - Jim

Good afternoon, What's your approach to model a structural brick pier under a sunroom (photo below)? I tried Post Framing with Footing. I then changed the post to 12" x 12" with brick material. I also looked at the Pier tool under Slabs... I was left wondering if it's just simplest to model as a 3D solid. Would appreciate any tips. Thanks again, Jim

Here's a link to a previous forum discussion. I used keyword "revolving" in search. You might find some more tips if you dig deeper. Jim

Don't understand off hand, but I'll give the technique a try. I have some homework to do... Jim

Yes, except I want to keep my default as a normal arrow head. I occassionally use the leader with a dot style head for the room tags I place outside a room.

Thanks Joe. Went to do it, but you beat me to it! Jim

Thanks DB for your quick reply and insight. Jim

I'm a little perplexed by the Object Eyedropper tool and it's abilities. I was just now trying to match / convert an arrowhead of a room leader from arrow to dot style. This to me seems about as basic a challenge for such a tool... But, the tool does not seem to work for me. Digging deeper, I see that the "properties to load" panel does not have any arrowhead properties, so maybe that's why the arrowhead does not change: From what I have read, the tool seems pretty powerful and detailed... Anyhow, two questions: 1) Am I misusing the tool and I just need to understand it better? 2) And related to this -- does Chief have a true "match ALL properties" tool that works? Thanks, Jim

Here's a photo of standard door in front of stair in case not clear. Jim

For your consideration -- If the framed wall stands proud of the stair, one option would be to leave the full-height doors like shown with the door leaves concealing the sheet-rocked stair underside. The triangular part of the stair assembly would of course be visible when the doors are open, but if storage space not a big deal. I think looks better than a tapered door when seen from outside and simpler too. Jim

I like the idea! 2 birds one stone. Jim

Thank you Joe. Jim

Thanks Rob. - Jim

Good morning, Are you inclined to or not to have a step down at the door between garage and house interior? My research shows a step is not an IRC code requirement, perhaps to better facilitate accessibility or because self sealing doors with closers tend to solve any car fume concern. I default to a step down as it seems like a good thing -- for water intrusion (i.e. hosing down slab), anti-vermin, and maybe just "psychology". Or do you feel garage / interior at same level is okay? Thanks, Jim P.S. BTW, I'm not asking about the door swing / landing topic, of which there has been "spirited" previous discussion.

To me it looks like a full floor assembly directly under a roof and the depth of the floor assembly is deeper than the roof's and therefore sticks out. (Not sure if this is the source of the problem or if Chief is able to automatically handle such a condition by beveling the end of the floor assembly). Jim

Well, I really struggled with this very same problem today and came across this thread on how to break a straight stair run into different widths. What I discovered is first use the break tool (hotkey 3) and then select the further refinement of "make complete break." All I can say is "give me a break!" This is probably old news, but thought I'd post in case it helps. Jim Screenshot below showing straight run with staggered widths.

Jason, I'm still learning the ins and outs of Chief. It's only been a year... First time adding a cap like this and was "stoked" by the result, until I saw this weird condition. Just trying to be accurate and have the cap appear on the elevations. I will look at your wall material region suggestion. Thanks for the tip. Jim

I submitted and got a quick reply. See below. Looks like it's normal behavior, but they might try to improve it. Jim Hello Jim, Thank you for contacting us regarding wall caps on stepped pony walls, and for sharing a link to your ChiefTalk post. As noted in that thread, there isn't a way to suppress vertical wall caps, and the best solution is to remove the wall cap from any stepped walls you may have in your plan and model separate wall caps using Molding Lines. I will submit a request for a way to suppress vertical caps on individual walls to our Software Development team, and I will also bring to their attention the way wall caps build on collinear pony walls with different heights. Thank you for bringing both issues to our attention. Regards, Anne S. Chief Architect Technical Support

Mick, I took your advice and submitted it to Chief so they can take a look at it. We'll see what they have to say. Thanks for the tip on creating the brick sill profile. Jim

Thank you Tea Time for your insight. Jim

Good morning, I'm working on an as-built set and am trying to model this brick condition (circled): I've got it looking pretty good with the exception of the brick cap snaking vertically down the wall. Is this expected behavior? Thanks again for looking at this. Jim