rgardner

If they are lined up then the problem is the wall definition is building the foundation to a different point. My guess is most likely they are not lined up as the railing wall is probably slightly set back. The foundation builds to the layer of the wall that is defined in the wall definition box.

Glad it worked out for you. For you to know. There are two options in the layout view to refresh the views. One in the top Menu bar that is Refresh all views (with option for live views or all views). The other option shows up when you select the layout box in the edit menu at the bottom and looks like a black circle with arrows which will refresh that view.

¡Qué bien! Bienvenidos al forum!

Hola buenas noches. Si la pregunta es que si el archivo o .plan pueden pasar a twinmotion la respuesta es si y no. Tienes que exportar como muestra el vídeo arriba un archivo de formato .obj o similar y de allí pueden importarlo a twinmotion.

Try pulling a cross section that will help you see where the ceiling planes hit with the top plate It seems that I saw that and if I remember right there was another invisible wall that was on manual and was keeping the wall to snapping correctly.

Common problem with lots of intricacies in dormers. It is not always the same problem. Best practice for this type of help would be to include the .plan file.

Try to follow the steps I gave above closely paying attention to the order. Couple of issues with your plan but overall you had drawn two "sloped" ceiling planes not setting them to 0 slope and to the right height, they were also sticking out into the room instead of back where you want them to transition. Also you had a bunch of "invisible" attic walls where you must have deleted or changed them manually and left remnants there. I deleted a few that were in the way to get this look.

The room is defined by the walls so since your room butts into the living area by those 6” or so and it has a flat ceiling it is building the requisite wall to close the ceiling. I see a few ways to fix this but easiest is probably: 1.) Start by selecting the open below room and unselecting for flat ceiling above. 2.) Then put a flat ceiling plane in the area up to the wall where you want it to stop. 3.)Next go to attic wall above and extend it all the way across.

Wall goes on same floor as the stairs are drawn from.

They are called Temporary markers. try the magic F1 key.

@Renerabbitt

It will not do it parametrically if the window is not that shape. If you want those style shutters on a square smaller window then you will need to create a symbol for the shutters. Several ways to do that.

Check out the basics which are discussed in this video by Tim Schrock. As you learn there are some shortcuts to doing a few of the geometric parts but the overall concept is very well explained in this.

No picture.

maybe another word: chip

If you need to change it all try the floor 0 settings assuming you did not manually change the heights either in elevation of the walls or per room amd everything is still clocked default you should be able to adjust it there.

Did not use the program that long ago but what are the chances that any computer would still be able to run that program 27 years later?

Only warning I would add in for newer users is whenever you edit a wall in elevation or 3d view you take the dynamic out of the wall and it will no longer adjust itself. I highly dissuade manual manipulation of the walls unless a very experienced user for abou 99% of the cases. foundation “rooms work the same as regular rooms the wall builds to the heights you set in the room dbx whether it’s dynamic with all of the rooms acting off of the default or whether you change each foundation room.

That means that the ceiling height is the underside of the top 2x12s and the trey is dropped down to the height of the lower 2x12s.

Yeah I think you will have to have the railing as no locate to get it to work how you are looking for. Neat design btw.

Sorry to point out but I very purposely wrote “ceiling planes” work the same as roof planes with the wall cut by roof plane below. You only need 1 roof plane and 1 ceiling plane.

Roof cuts wall at bottom works the same for a roof plane or a ceiling plane.

I just grabbed a random one from the kohler library and put it in. I have always done it that way and it is automatic.

Have you tried inserting it into a base cabinet with a 5'6" blank at the front?