SNestor

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Everything posted by SNestor

  1. Well...I just learned something I never knew. Thanks.
  2. Just curious. If you know you that your foundation walls will always be at least 48” tall...why not just set your minimum stemwall height to be 48”? Wouldn’t that save you a step? You wouldn’t have to open the room DBX and set the height?
  3. Michael's post is right on...as always. I made a video to supplement my first video...not sure if it really helps that much. Maybe it'll help someone....couple new things covered.
  4. It is weird. I think Chief guru's might want to think about limiting the number of places you can edit the floor joist size...it's crazy. You can set them in "defaults"...in the floor DBX and in the room DBX. Why? That said...I still wish they would improve the stair tool...my biggest bug-a-boo with Chief
  5. Larry...did a quick video. Hopefully I'm on the right track and this helps you out.
  6. Larry... You have the default floor joists set to be 11-7/8" I-Joist. But...when you framed the building you set the joists to 5-1/2" lumber. (I don't think the material type has anything to do with this...) This seems to be the problem. Go into your floor defaults and change the default joist to 5-1/2" lumber and rebuild your foundation and you will see everything works. OR...set you floor DBX joist to use the "default" joist.
  7. I did a video on this subject...maybe it will help.
  8. Yes...you are correct. That’s really what I wanted to do...but gave up. C’mon Chief...fix stuff like this.
  9. Thank you Glenn! It's a simple fix...well, if you know what your are doing.
  10. I've mulled a casement window above an awning window. The two windows are stacked directly on one another...the top of the awning is 34" AFF and the bottom of the casement is 34" AFF. So...why do I get the thin piece of exterior trim generated between the two units? Is there a way to get rid of this...or is it just the way Chief works? Here is my sample plan... Window Mulled Plan.plan
  11. This video is targeted to beginners or for someone considering purchasing the software. For someone with CA experience it’s a snoozer
  12. Looking at what Dave gave us...looks like cabinets is the way to go when creating and outdoor BBQ.
  13. The REF display dialogue is improved...but the introduction of it by Chief has been lousy. When a tool that has been around as long as this is changed so radically there needs to be supporting training videos released prior to or at a minimum at the time of release. Its obvious to me that hat many users haven’t a clue how to use this tool...or plan views. Come on Chief...you can do better
  14. that works...if you have a bath or bedroom above it would have to be an invisible wall...but, still...that's a great idea. Thanks Eric!
  15. That works fine for defining a material...but the material has "0" thickness. It's not realistic and nothing appears in the section. And if you have a "porch room" (as shown in pic below)...and it has a defined ceiling material/thickness...if you delete this ceiling you end up with nothing. The room above does not fill in the material. I really think the only way to do this is with invisible rooms on the floor below the cantilever...
  16. Thanks Eric... So, the best solution is to create a "room" below the cantilever and then go to the materials tab and assign the specific material. However, you have to specify the "thickness" and the number of "layers" of the ceiling in the "ceiling finish" DBX on the room "structure" tab. Thanks again...I wasn't thinking about the "materials" tab.
  17. Wondering...how do you get a "finish" material to appear on the underside of a cantilevered floor? Does it require creating a "room" with invisible walls on the floor below? This works...but, it creates other problems...especially if you are trying to create a "porch" room at a door opening. My solution was to use a Molding Polyline and create a soffit and trim board...but, is this the only simple solution? Just wondering what others have done to accomplish this task... Thanks
  18. I’ve thought the same thing since I purchased the software...version X6. But...I also want the stair tool improved drastically.
  19. You could use a spline...or draw an arc...then open the object DBX and “add an arrow”...to indicate the switch controls a light above or below.
  20. I don’t think the “rail follows wall” will give you stair treads. I think you get a wall with cap and a balustrade on top of the wall.
  21. Maybe the video I recently did could help you...
  22. Thanks...it’s nice to know my videos can be some help.
  23. I'm surprised at the number of posts on this thread. The OP posted about dormers right? You just can never know what post topic will inspire such discussion....amazing.
  24. Jason...I used your plan to create a video on roof editing. Maybe it'll help you...or maybe you've already got this done and moved on. Either way...here is the video.