SNestor

Just a quickie video where I go through a plan that was posted last week on Chief Talk. I dissect the way the chimney was constructed and also the porch railing wall. Hope it helps someone...

Rocky - if I'm understanding your question correctly...you are asking how to get a "plan view" that is simpler to work with. You need to learn to use "LAYERS". You are using the "Roof Plan" layerset...which is good. And...you can open that set and change anything you want. Line weight, line color...etc. You can turn layers on and off. Attached is a very simple video...hope it helps. Rocky Roof Fix Plan 1.plan

I made a little video using the plan file that MrDucks attached above. I used it as a basis to talk about "painting" walls...and how you can get the wall back to match your "wall type" definition. This video topic is very "basic"...created for those who are just beginning to use Chief. Experts need not bother. Hope it helps...

Just a simple/quick little video on how to create 2 deck rail wall types on a deck. It's basic...

Did a quick video...the guys have already answered faster than I could make this video...but maybe it'll help someone.

Well...I just missed the point of this thread. Sorry about that. I'd love to be able to have more control...of many things. First and foremost...STAIRS.

Can’t you create a unique roof section with no fascia? I get the point...it would be great to just click and remove the fascia from edge. But...you can accomplish the task right now if you really need to. You could also just “mask” the fascia in the section view...I think.

In the field wouldn’t these tails be removed? So...why not just pull the overhang back to the beam? This would solve the problem... am I missing something?

Post the plan...

Not sure what you need...but here's a quickie vid. Let me know if it helps or not...

I'm wondering how to dimension a wall elevation...created with the "wall elevation camera"? I have learned by trial and error that the NKBA auto dim tool works...if you have cabinets. Otherwise...it doesn't. So...do I have to create a cad detail from view and dimension it there...or is there a way to dimension this wall elevation using the standard tools? All I want to do is dimension the height/width of the seat and the overall height and width of the space. Thanks!

Well...turns out if you make the main body roof (not the dormer roof) thicker...in this case I increased the rafters from 5 1/2" to 7 1/4"...the soffit disappeared. Probably just buried in the roof cavity. So...if you ever create a dormer, make sure the dormer rafters are smaller than the main body rafters it is connecting to. I think....

Well...it seems if I use an "auto dormer"...the soffit does not pierce through the ceiling.

Is this user error...or software glitch? Why does the "soffit" of the dormer roof stick through the ceiling? See attached pics. Let me know if I need to attach plan...I was just practicing creating dormers on a test plan...and for the life of me I cannot get these to disappear. The dormer roof is 12/12 with a 6" overhang. I have created some cheek walls that are set as "roof cuts wall at bottom"...and as you can see from the attached pics...the roof is cutting through the wall. You would think this would trim the soffit? Thanks.

No "advantage" really...except if you have a simple condition it's quick and easy. If you have a shower that turns a corner...with angles and a seat, then P-Solids is the way to go...or maybe a combo of both methods. My video just shows one method possible. Chief does give us many ways to do things like this to suit everyones particular needs. Also...just remember Scott, you and your videos have got me to where I am today...I owe it all to you buddy. Thanks!

Did you watch the video? I made both the 42” wall and the 6” wall...the entire thing took less than 3 min to create. Both methods have pluses depending on what you are getting paid to do. Personally...if you are just drafting plans...you don’t really want to create shop drawings. You just end up being blamed for things not fitting or working. P-solid method will result in additional accuracy...can’t argue that. But...the pony wall is faster.

I guess it depends on what you need to provide to the client. Coming at this from a GC point of view I would not want to be responsible for a “shop” drawing for my shower glass subcontractor. I would expect them to have a general knowledge of the end goal...maybe meet on site and let them work up their own specific shop drawing. Now...if you are a design/build contractor then by all means...a very specific drawing may be required and using p-solids would definitely give you more control and accuracy.

I've use X10 on a MAC. Works beautiful for me. I don't believe there are any "major" differences. If you know how to use a MAC...and you know how to use Chief...it will be seemless.

Made a quick video showing how to accomplish using Pony Walls...hope it helps

Rene/Mick; The window symbol is fabulous...but you cannot adjust the "frame". Maybe if you made the symbol without a frame and created a window symbol the frame could be adjusted in the window DBX. As it is works...but many times a window like this is installed in a drywall wrapped opening and reducing the depth of the frame is necessary.

I'm not having any issues...just installed Mojave yesterday.

I made a quick video on how I make Craftsman Style columns...not sure it really solves the goal of the OP...but it may help someone. Here is the link:

There are a lot of ways to make a column like this using the tools Chief gives us...this is a method I use. Hope it helps...

Now that is a very creative solution. I find myself thinking too much about actual sizes of things/materials/items...when ultimately the goal is to achieve a specific look or functionality. Therefore...If you open up your mind it seems you can manipulate the software to accomplish most anything. Eric proves this almost daily.

Thanks much! Glad it was helpful. You never know when doing something like this if it really helps...so I appreciate the feedback.