NRST8TRKR

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  1. NRST8TRKR
    You are welcome. The roof plane has to be there for it to generate the truss. If the roof plane is cut to the roof plane of the roof coming into it it will generate rafters for a stick built roof with a valley. tgif,Ken
  2. NRST8TRKR
    I have attached the plan with the roof plane adjusted and a pic of the resulting trusses.Ths area for the stairway will have to be ladder framed. The trussbase plane still needs to be adjusted. Have a great weekend.Ken Truss Problem.plan
  3. NRST8TRKR
    Did you run the roof all the way through as if there is no valley coming into it or did you cut the roof to align in the valley? Looks to be the issue here.Didn't open the plan but I would start there. Ken
  4. NRST8TRKR
    Hope you don't mind Joe,I downloaded your garage door also. Thank you,Ken
  5. NRST8TRKR
    We always pour a frost footer to grade on the daylight end and frame with a 2"x6" wall . As was pointed out not enough fill at the daylight corners to stress the wall. Have a great weekend,Ken
  6. NRST8TRKR
    Best I remember 3-d wouldn't do a roof.Seems I remember doing floor plan and elevation in 3-d then doing roof on drawing board the old way. Course that was a while ago and I may be wrong. Ken
  7. NRST8TRKR
    I think it should open with an early version of chief but will probably lose a lot as far as textures and etc. are concerned. I started with 3-d home and went to chief with Ver.4 and used some of my early plans for awhile for the contractor I was working for at that time. Am only running chief as far back as X-1 at this time. Ken
  8. NRST8TRKR
    It has been working for me with one log in. Have a great day,Ken
  9. NRST8TRKR
    Thanks, they look great. Have a great week,Ken
  10. NRST8TRKR
    10-4 on the extend and fence tool. I was reffering to raising the lookout to the corect height one at a time.If there is a way to raise them all at once I would like that tip.Right on ,a real pain with a complicated roof line. Ken
  11. NRST8TRKR
    Sorry If I was misleading in my first post. It is the lookout to the fly rafter not blocking.You are correct in that the blocking would have a gap for each rafter. You could use a single block for each run but you would still have to raisei it up the thickness of the material used for the purlin and extend it to the length of the roof. Ken
  12. NRST8TRKR
    Scott, Not using roof blocking. Using the Lookout to the fly rafters and raising them up 1 1/2". Only drawback is they have to be done individually and it is a slow process ,but I have done a couple metal buildings and garages in this way Waitin for the snow to melt,Ken
  13. NRST8TRKR
    As I related in my first post. Have a great week,Ken
  14. NRST8TRKR
    Good info Joe. Thanks,Ken
  15. NRST8TRKR
    Glad to see this thread.I was thinking about a pad and stylus but after reading these comments on the subject I think I will put it off awhile. Rod we must have started about the same time.I started with 3-d home architect and moved up to chief ver.4. A great week to all,Ken
  16. NRST8TRKR
    In our area these are refered to as purlins and are used to attach metal roofing. What I do is ajust the roof blocking used to tie the fly rafter to the trusses to the space I want the purlin and raise it in the dbx to ajust it to sit on the rafter then drag it the length of the building. I would think a similar method could be used to get the desired nailers under the truss system. Hope this is of some help. Have a great week,Ken
  17. NRST8TRKR
    Lisa, Not in a chief library,Don't know aboyt any oyhers, Have a great weekend,Ken
  18. NRST8TRKR
    Thank you again for your work. Have a great week,Ken
  19. NRST8TRKR
    Thank you. Ken
  20. NRST8TRKR
    success