JJohnson

Newell, could you post the plan ?

Obviously, you have never been to France.

In plan view, delete unwanted roof planes, and drag wanted ones into place to get this. Hard to know what the program was doing when crazy roof was generated. Manual roof editing is always an option.

In Railing Specification, Roof, Pitch Options, check the "In From Baseline" number, and adjust that to keep upper roof plane from going either up or down. I believe the number should be the same as the depth of the porch.

Might be easier to convince the congregation to convert to a religion that has simpler building designs and symbols.

In the interest of economy of motion; I use "Key Tweak", to reassign keyboard keys, and have a delete instead of whatever the thing is that is native to key 1 (not number 1 key), at keyboard left side I also have a ', or foot button now, at key 95, above the 8 on the number pad. I also have my mouse wheel to left assigned to delete, and to right to undo. Click wheel is 'open object' Mouse side buttons are, space bar (return to select) and tab key (next object) All this saves me countless mouse hand to keyboard or reach across keyboard moves.

I appreciate the question, and the answers ! These little tips are so helpful.

I believe you did not lock the pitch of the roof you added the porch to, and the porch side rebuilt to match the porch pitch. You can lock pitch in the roof plane DBX, or dialogue box I think that when you built the porch with a lower pitch than the roof it connects, if that's the case, the program changed the side of the house roof to match the porch roof. Not sure why.

Make sure the base units are all the same depth, and that none are "buried" a little in the wall, like you can do if you place one with the control key pressed down.

no worries, I was trying to be funny.

"Framing, Sill Plates" display layer could have been turned off ? Using the "All On" layer set is a good way to see if something exists at all, or is just turned off.

OP stated that he had stem walls, so there.

You do understand that, you have to build floor framing, to see those items, as well as have layer turned on.

I think so, with these walls, you have the second floor to work with, and looks like the right levels to me. But, how does lowering the ceiling get more closet space ? Confused there.

Not sure, but try building a second floor over garage, which is what you are wanting, and then work on floor and ceiling heights ??? Anyway, there is no second floor over garage to work with

I suggest that you select the view you want to move, choose the point to point tool, and move the view as close to the desired location as you can first. Then you can zoom in and repeat as needed for a precise placement.

Point to point move is the most precise way to move anything that I know. Do you mean you want to align seperate views you have sent to layout, with each other ?

With CA closed, you can rename the Toolbars folder, in the CA folder, to something like 'Old Toolbars'. The next time you start CA, the program will recreate the Toolbars folder and you are good to go, albeit with default tools. I have not done this for a while but I think it still works.

David the ones I was working with were 22 1/2 x 22 1/2 housing size meaning they would fit between standard truss spacing, or 24" on cente,r with no special framing needed.

Not enough time to look at your plan now, but recently I had problems with auto dormer too. learned to set the wall height in the dormer DBX, to something short like 12" to get the thing to show in camer view, and make them taller from there . If the walls are too high, the thing will not show in any view other than plan.

They are in the CA Data file, but only Chief can open the calibz. file. Interestingly, when I clicked on the file in the data folder, it just added then to my user lib. and now I have duplicates to delete Live and learn (I will keep telling myself).

Just drag the ones you don't want down into the trash can folder, one right click there and select delete and presto. all gone.

click on one foundation wall and open, go to structure and uncheck "hang floor platform above on wall". Repeat for all foundation walls, and rebuild floor framing.

Would depend on specific covenants of HOA contract. In my experience you loose control of the exterior appearance of you unit, but have landscaping on public side taken care of, possibly roof repairs and exterior paint upkeep too, and you pay dues to cover the expense The places I've seen in this kind of neighborhood, usually do not have the room for a simple "accessory building" (other than a small shed), much less an ADU.

Does any of the following apply to your project ? Is there a bus stop within a few blocks ? (e) Notwithstanding any other law, a local agency, whether or not it has adopted an ordinance governing accessory dwelling units in accordance with subdivision (a), shall not impose parking standards for an accessory dwelling unit in any of the following instances: (1) The accessory dwelling unit is located within one-half mile of public transit. (2) The accessory dwelling unit is located within an architecturally and historically significant historic district. (3) The accessory dwelling unit is part of the existing primary residence or an existing accessory structure. (4) When on-street parking permits are required but not offered to the occupant of the accessory dwelling unit. (5) When there is a car share vehicle located within one block of the accessory dwelling unit. (f) Notwithstanding subdivisions