DRAWZILLA

Does that automatically cut out for windows and doors?

You can change each type of room to include or not include in the living area. You can also move the living area p-line how you want.

You have to make sure all the rooms are included in the living area, in each room DBX. You can quickly do it using the "match property's" tool in the edit DBX.

There is a new "make living area p-line". Select the outside room and select that tool from the edit toolbar, it will only put a p-line around the living area portion of the house. This is only in X7

Thanks for the info, I usually have something open all day to bring in fresh air, of course unless it's 110 deg. outside.

The cabinet mount outlet also has to be adjusted in the origin of the symbol DBX, it doesn't fit exactly on the cabinet correctly. It's been that way forever and I have turned it in.

Like you say, it's a lot of fixing if you have lots of windows and doors. Right now I just use a siding that looks close, close enough for me until Chief address this. I can see how this could be developed to work with the programmers help.

I have had to sprinkle some larger additions lately

I have one of those fans on all the time, so quiet you don't even notice and creates a negative air pressure so every time you open a window or door air rushes in. Penny says she likes the fresh air unless its too hot out. Those days are when I can foul up the air the best.

Don't they want you to 1/2" drywall the sides of the joists also.

Sure , go ahead and post. I'm sure you will get good input and some bad too. Did you zip and close the plan before sending

Wouldn't you run into this all the time on the 2nd floor?

I also like the "Wall material region" tool for that.

I also use "PDF's in the layout, For me the only slowdown is on that page. Not a lot though. You can control the dpi or resolution in some "PDF" programs.

Scott Hall has a lot of mono-slab videos on chieftutor.com and on his YouTube page. Even if its a different version, the technic still applies.

Nice one Dennis

Thanks Dan

The easiest thing would be to have a board and batt texture. There are some fake ones around that look ok, but not real.

Thanks for the heads -up. It is also in the California code. I don't think anyone is enforcing it here yet. I think the reason is that an I-joists will burn through quicker than a normal 2x floor joists. They will have to make the I-joists plywood thicker to qualify. Now, it's 2 x floor joists for me unless it's going to be sprinkled.

That video was from X2, it different now.

Cant open for some reason

You could try to break the exterior walls at the connection. Post the plan for an exact answer.

you could have just drag the files to your desktop instead of unzipping.

Roof will not update in that situation unless you have auto roof turned on. Sometimes you have to use the " transform -replicate" tool to do it manually in the "z" direction.

Oh, there has been noise.