DRAWZILLA

Of course Designers don't do those you listed ,but they can with an engineer. California goes by the business and profession code which allows anyone to draw residential 1,2, and 3 story. Can't find insurance for Designers here.

yep, 2 x 14's for me too. Plan check has caught me many times for not putting that 6" in the section

min. 6" of meat leftover after the notch is ok

We are qualified to design, even licensed Architects make mistakes, and are liable even more than designers. That's why the actually have insurance for them. Anyone can be sued as we all know.

It varies ( from city to city) around here also.

Here in the L.A. area ,you have no choice, they will not take your lets hope it works, they want a stamp.

I also use a licensed structural engineer on every project I do.

I have wanted to be able to copy camera's for a long time. Maybe X9. I do have all my camera's set up in my template plan and already sent to the template layout so I never have to create one again. I have lots of cameras everywhere, it's easier to delete, than it is to create.

Doesn't the offset setting for newels in the railing DBX work for you?

Yes the sub-fascia controls the rafter depth at the eaves only, in most cases. if you have a 2x12 rafter but only want a 2x4 depth at the eaves, it will work but if you have a 2x12 rafter ,you can lower the top plate for full bearing on the top plate instead of a 4" bearing. Chief still need to work on this ,as sometimes it gets difficult to do when you have one portion of a roof plane you want different. We use to be able to select the fascia or the sub-fascia separately and just delete one or the other in a framing view, somehow Chief changed that for the worse. Now the fascia became part of the roof DBX and you can't select in a framing view. I really need to be able to delete the fascia in a framing view without having to turn it off. Of course you could use a separate roof plane for that. We need to be able to adjust the fascia and trim on just a portion of a roof plane.

Very nice, Terry, heck of a laptop to run all that

I print everything in Color and set up print in grayscale in my "PDF" program. You just need to watch what colors you are using and stay on the dark side of the color choice you use. Any light colors just won't print in grayscale very good.

Until Chief expands Ruby, that all we can do. I like using macros and have a ton in every plan, they used to slow everything to a crawl, but Chief fixed that and it's smooth a silk now

I think those are a starting point template, mainly for decorating and cabinet styles and some other things. Just open and save as ----new plan, then adjust ceilings and floors to what you need, but you save some time with cabinet setup etc. You could also adjust and save it as another template for the future.

kind of like this, I use macro labels for everything

I know a lot of guys here are running 4k, they love it, just make sure your video card can handle it.

here is a short video showing how I do it. You can remove hip valleys and any framing member this way. http://screencast.com/t/a2tLB1G4v32

if you have Joe's site package, it does it all for you automatically.

I don't know what you are doing but I can do it and do a lot. Not sure what is going on with you. Try posting the plan for an exact answer

Michael, all programs have these quarks once in a while ,so you will never eliminate those, but as in all cases, if I'm not having any problems like that then I suspect user error.

Well, I gave him the option of not closing and re-opening all the time

not quite the same problem

I just opened all the attic walls and unchecked (no locate) and they came back.

You can do all that info with a macro also

Egress is 44"from the floor but no higher. Looks like you are ok. There are other requirements also ,like width and height. Check the code in your area