glennw

Coralie, You can't force a roof geometry to be what you want. The roof has to reflect the floor plan to a major degree. I often find that if you can't get the look you want with Chief's auto roofs, then the roof doesn't work and can't be built as you want. This solution will allow you to have the internal configuration you want with cathedral ceiling to the kitchen/living area and front left bedroom. The end gable at the left side of the living area is inside the hip roof area and thus is not reflected in the external roof shape.

Coralie, You floor plan with the arrows is ambiguous as to where you want the gables. Can you post again with a clearer explanation of where you want the gables and if you have any preferences for the rest of the roof. You should be able to do a roof like that automatically. I think it would look better with a hip roof with the feature gables at the front - easier maintenance as well.

Select the wall and then on the Edit toolbar select Add to Library.

It is because you have your rooms designated as Unconditioned Areas.

I think that you will find that the actual overall building width is actually 56' 10 15/16". Well, (to be more accurate) it is really 56' 10 49/50" - you can see this by selecting an external side wall and then clicking on the overall horizontal dimension - after you fix the wall definition as outlined below. What you are seeing is a combination of rounding error and a bad wall definition. Open the wall definition, select the Housewrap wall layer and enter the 0" size again. This will fix the wall definition and allow you to see that the width is actually 56' 10 49/50" Go back to the plan and you should see the corrected dimensions - to the nearest 1/16" - the overall will show as 56' 10 15/16" (because of rounding) - but it is really 56' 10 49/50'. You need to make the house 1/16" wider to get the correct overall width.

Larry and Eric, That wall is defined as a Furred Wall. It needs to be changed to a Framed Through

Eric, Are they tapered or is it just the perspective? If they are tapered, then you are correct - the above method will not work.

Eric, Dragging the stairs wider usually fixes that situation.

What does this mean Eric?

You can control the door to only building into one wall by using the Not Through option in the door dbx.

Sort of... The solo D will preclude any other hotkeys from using D as the first letter - so the D will work, but when you try to assign, say D,A, you will get an error message. If you assign one letter to a hoykey (say D), it precludes using any other combinations like (D,A). This drastically reduces the number of hotkeys you can assign. I am talking about sequential hotkeys, not simultaneous hotkeys.

Here is one I did really quickly using Inserts Into Wall, with the sun shining through the wall hole. Polyline Subtraction does not work with walls.

For recesses that don't go right through the full thickness of the wall, you could use either a Wall Niche or a Wall Material Region with Cut Finish Layers of Parent Object. For holes that go completely through the wall, I would use the new Inserts into Wall with the Edit Wall Cutout Polyline feature. This allows you to place a symbol - any symbol (hide it on it's own layer). You can then edit the shape of the wall hole as needed.

Post a plan

Chad, Use the Winders option in the stair dbx. Make sure your stairs are contained in a room or Winders will not work.

It is an Attic wall on the Attic floor level. Is the gable at the front of the porch open, or is there meant to be a gable wall there? You will need either a wall or a collar tie of some sort there to stop the gable roof from spreading. If you want to get rid of the framing, go up to the Attic level and delete that wall. I have no idea why it is building inverted like that.

I never use a terrain retaining wall - they are too hard to control - especially when used with settings like follow terrain, and especially if I want a level top retaining wall. A terrain retaining wall is just a wall with a terrain break incorporated into it. I have much more success using a Terrain Break and then using a separate wall or railing. You can then control the wall and the terrain separately with a lot more control. All I did here was delete your invisible wall and then drew a Terrain Break down the centre of the retaining wall. Oh, and I also pulled the end of the wall a little past the -76" elevation data to clean up the end of the wall/terrain junction. This one is with just your invisible wall deleted: And this one has your invisible wall deleted and a Terrain Break drawn down the centre of the wall.

What pdf driver have you been using. Have you tried Chief's built in one?

How far is your model from 0,0,0? Post the plan.

I have a Mac with High Sierra and am not experiencing any troubles like that.

Does anyone know how to get obscure window/door glass in an external PBR view?

When assigning the shortcut in Customize Hotkeys, are you pressing Alt and Z at the same time or one after the other?

Johnny, Isn't that called flexibility? What, you want less flexibility?

Post the plan

Johnny, Try drawing your molding polyline in an anticlockwise direction - this is the standard convention. Or, you can also Reverse the molding polyline to get the same result. If you draw your polyline anticlockwise, the molding will be on the right hand side (with Extrude Inside checked). Maybe turn on your Start and End indicators to see which way the polyline is drawn. And be aware that the shape of the polyline has nothing to do with "inside" or "outside" - it's the direction in which line is drawn (start and end) that matters. A bit the same as when we had to draw walls in an anticlockwise direction or they would be "inside out". At some stage (several versions ago) Chief walls got smart and they now know from the wall definition what is the outside and inside of a wall, and if you have drawn the walls clockwise, Chief will automatically flip them so that they are the correct way around (once you enclose a room).