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Everything posted by glennw
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Send the view to layout, add your text on the layout page and print from there.
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Tim, Firstly, go to Defaults...General Plan Defaults...Snap Grid/Snap Units. Check Use Snap Grid/units and set the Snap Unit to a value that you are happy with - do you really need 1mm for floor plans? I have mine set to 10mm. You may like that, or maybe 5mm could be used. Anything less than 5mm, IMHO, is useless. I also uncheck Show Snap grid. Now go to the dimension default that you are using (1:50 dimensions - are you printing plans at 1:50?). Primary Format panel...Accuracy and change Decimal Places to zero. Do this in your template plan as well. That should clean everything up. Be aware though that the above will cause any new plans to be drawn accurately, with no decimal places displaying. The existing plan, although displaying the correct dimensions (should be mostly), will still be drawn incorrectly. I just had another look and is there any reason why you do not have linings on your walls. And are they really 36mm and 72mm thick?
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Use a Spline Driveway and shape it to suit. It will cut and fill the terrain in it's width. I don't understand the second part to your question
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In past versions (I am not sure when it changed) the direction you drew external walls was critical. You needed to draw them clockwise so that they were the right way around (not inside out) Chief couldn't tell what was the inside or outside of a wall. But a few versions back (maybe when we got the new Wall Type Definitions dbx) Chief got smart and can now tell from the wall definition, what is the external of the wall and what is the internal. So....if you are drawing an enclosed room anti-clockwise, the walls will draw inside out until you close the walls and form a room. Chief will then automatically reverse all the walls so that they are not inside out.
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Open the window schedule...General panel...Objects to Include...uncheck Vents. Or, on the Options section in the Window dbx for the vent, uncheck Include in Schedule.
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Rob, You need to have a look at Alt+Q (General Wall Defaults) where you can change the Resize About wall layer.
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How to add a 36" railing on top of retaining wall?
glennw replied to JECORMIER's topic in General Q & A
You can't drag top and bottoms of railings. But, you can drag top and bottoms of a normal walls. So...place your normal wall on top of your terrain retaining wall and in an elevation (or 3D) view you can move the tops and bottoms of the walls to suit. Then convert your higher wall to a railing. You can still control the height of the railing itself through the dbx. -
That gap is caused by the thickness of the OSB and external cladding.
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You are wanting to do something that can't be done. That would take about 30 seconds to redraw in Chief - a lot less time than it has taken you to get to this point!
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A bit of tweaking and an auto roof build will get you out of a LOT of trouble. This one took 1 minute to do. A little more time could give you want you want and avoid all those roof problems you have at present.
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And don't forget that depending on the material type assigned to the solid, the ML list will report different units of measurement. ie, you can use types like Brick (number), Area (square whatever), Volume (cubic whatever), Tile (number), etc
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Joe, Solids ARE included in the material list. By default they come in as either Exterior Trim or Interior Trim as "Solid - concrete" description.
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You must have forgotten to post the plan.
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Alan, Winders will work, but they only work when contained in a room. So...create a room around the stairs with invisible walls.
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You didn't think to post the plan?
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What tools did you use to create the object and what type of object did it end up being - solid, symbol, architectural block.....? Maybe even post the plan as it could be a few things - save us guessing.
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Thanks Michael, I did look for the layer setting suspecting that was the culprit, but I only checked in the Camera, Dollhouse View layerset whilst viewing it in a 3D view, where it was turned on. So...I'm just trying to get my head around what is the point of having the M available in 3D view layersets when it seems to be the floor plan layerset setting that takes precedence in generating a ML? I have just done a bit of experimenting and it appears that, in a 3D view, even though a layer is checked to be included in the ML, it makes no difference because it is the M Layer setting in the floor plan view layer set that determines what is included in the ML - as is evidenced in this case.
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It is being caused by the fact that those walls are defined as Foundation walls. I am not 100% sure why as I haven't had too much time to look at the plan in depth. Trouble is when you don't make them a Foundation wall, you loose the footings. I wouldn't have drawn the plan with the lower floor on level zero - and I think that could be part of the problem. I would draw the lower floor on level 1 and then Have a foundation on level zero.
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Mark, I can get rid of the hole by selecting the external room between that corner and the boundary and defining it as a Deck - I think it has to do with the structure of a Deck (no ceiling). You will need to change the floor structure to a mono slab. You will then be left with a vertical line back a bit from the boundary side corner. I think this is because you may have played with the Edit Wall Layer Intersection tool. Anyway...it can be fixed with that tool. In the second floor plan, select the walls and adjust the wall layer junctions so that the grips are at 45deg. You probably don't need to do all the wall layers, but is shouldn't hurt. That other corner problem is a really messy corner which I think should be able to be cleaned up with the same tool.
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It's a hard thing to describe. It has to do with the top of the door meeting the head jam at an angle whereby the height of the door is higher than the head jamb at the meeting point - due to the sloping head jamb. I would imagine the thicker the door, the greater the problem. And I would think that the same thing would happen with arch top doors. This may help explain what is happening:
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I think you may also have to shape the top of the door arches to allow the doors to close or they will bind on the top frame before they close. I remember I once had a thick door with a sloping top and we had to gradually bevel the top of the door to allow it to close. From memory we needed to bevel more on the hinge side of the door top and gradually easing to nothing on the handle side top. Then again, I could be wrong on this as it was a long time ago - but still worth keeping in mind and trying to find out if what I am saying is correct. There would be nothing worse that getting something like that made and then finding out that the doors won't close!
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Peter, I'm on my way.
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Peter, My guess is that you have already been given the answer by Dan. Do a Perspective Full Overview and Toggle Textures should be available. The Toggle Textures tool will only work in a standard render view - not in a plan or vector view. If Toggle Textures is greyed out, you must be in either a plan view or a 3D vector view. Note that whilst in standard render mode, you can toggle textures on and your plants will appear, and if you then toggle the same view into a vector view, the plants will remain visible. ie, the texture toggle mode will apply to both standard and vector views - even though you can only toggle textures in standard mode. If that doesn't make sense, let me know and I can do a quick video, or probably better is a Skype session where we can share screens - am just over in Sydney.
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I believe the wall hatch tool goes way back to a time when that was the only way to hatch a wall - before wall definitions could contain hatches. Its one of those tools that have just hung around in the background and occasionally has a use.