glennw

Jon, Am I missing something here? - Or are you missing something. Sure, Help...View Reference Manual gives you the .pdf manual. But using Launch Help (F1) (from toolbar or menu) gives you the interactive, contextual help file that has a really good search function, especially if you use the Advanced Search tools. The shortcut for this help is not the right mouse button, it's F1 - but I would be surprised if you don't already know all this and that is why I am surprised by your post.

Interestingly, I believe the only countries in the world that haven't adopted the metric system are Myanmar, Liberia and....oh yes...the USA. Rich, In the US, I think Imperial is the incorrect term - they should probably be referred to as the Customary System - but who really cares!

Australia changed to decimal currency back in 1966 and 1971 for measurements. What...Oz can do it, but the US can't! Just to keep things consistent, maybe you should go the other way and go completely imperial and use Imperial pounds, shillings and pence for your currency!

Chief makes working in both formats easy - especially for dimensions. You can choose to show both metric and imperial units by using the Secondary Format. Or you can change the default Format between Metric and Imperial. This means that you can draw a plan in imperial and then change the default format to metric and all the dimensions will change to metric - how easy is that!

In Oz, we don't even use centimeters, just meters and millimeters, but mostly just millimeters. The only difference really is where the decimal point goes.

Here is the fixed plan with auto build roofs. Apart from the problem with the ceiling heights at the rear of level 2, there were 2 roof pitches defined for the gable behind the chimney. You will need to fix up the columns in the front porch. If you don't want to drop the ceiling heights in the bath and attic, you will need to increase the pitch or height of the roofs coming up from the rear of the ground floor (if you want the upper and lower roofs to be coplanar). Luedeker 3 fixed by Glenn (2).zip

The problem is that your geometry will not allow the roof planes to meet. The one area that is a problem is the roof over Bath 3 and the Attic. If you want to retain the existing roof pitches, you need to reduce the ceiling height in those 2 rooms to 238". This will then allow the lower roof to build over those 2 rooms as a single plane. The roofs CAN be built automatically - very easy. Is this what you are after?

Roof Blocking sounds like it does what you want.

If you drag the inside roof edge (of the thin bit of roof running down the gable wall) back to inside of the wall, the upper boxed eave disappears.

Michael, They are not macros. This is a hard wired Chief tool. That is just any text in the Text Box - you can type anything and it will display before the auto height. You need the numeral or a dash to make things work and locate the height. And yes, height is above or below Chiefs zero level.

Perry, I would love to do battered walls, but I can't find a fryer large enough to get the wall into...and then you need a LOT of batter and oil.

Larry, I think those Edit Area problems may have to do with your Marquee Selection settings. Is yours set to Select Intersected Objects?

You are missing something. Have a look in the manual for "Special Use Arrow". "Do you mean a text macro that calculates stemwall height as a difference between room/floor elevation and top of footing?" If that is what you want, we are on the right track. "If so, as Joe mentioned I would have to create rooms for each varying stemwall height in my foundation." Even then, it would not work as you can have different stem wall heights for the different walls forming the room.

Don't give up that easily. Depending on exactly what information you want, a "Special Use" arrow attached to a text box may give you what you want. This should return the height of the stem wall (ie, top of footing) below Chiefs zero level. This can be used for slabs, foundation walls, slab footings, stair landings and custom countertops. These are automatic heights using the Special Use Arrow tool.

My guess is that at some stage you had that room defined as a Deck - you defined it with railings. It has now lost it's room definition because it has lost its external walls (railings). So, replace the Porch walls - it will probably be named automatically as a Deck. Change it's room definition back to a Porch and the wall should be fixed.

Scott, OK, I think this is as close as you can get with the existing tools. This is only a small variation to what you want in that you need to use Fillet edit mode. Get into Fillet edit mode - with a hotkey. Select the corner and drag along one of the lines - DO NOT DRAG INTO THE CENTRE. Tab. Enter the distance along the line. http://screencast.com/t/VAEgSHo5Kp

Another way... Get into Fillet Edit mode. Select the polyline or whatever you want to fillet. Get into the Fillet command by shortcut, menu, toolbar or whatever. At this stage you can use a hot key or the Set Fillet Radius icon on the Edit toolbar to set the fillet radius. Click exactly in the corner you want to fillet. http://screencast.com/t/m5ZUVcFyT1

No, I dragged the outside edge of the roof plane to line up with the outside of the wall's main layer. In plan view, you need to turn on the "Walls, Layers" layer.

Ok, how about this one?

Is this what you are after?

Uncheck Automatic for the Callout Size?

I think the problem is that your roof isn't covering the walls. The roof finishes halfway through the walls OSB layer. Drag the edge of the roof out to at least the outer surface of the wall.

Try playing with the material properties. Try changing the material to a General material and upping the Emissive setting. How a color looks in real life can be completely different than a color swatch as it is influenced by lighting, shadow, reflection, etc.

Michael, I mentioned it because the obvious is not always so obvious. And it this case apparently it was not so obvious to OP!