Renerabbitt

Alaskan was correct, you need to delete your appliance sections, then split them vertical in 3 parts, a left stile, right stile, and middle appliance, so that you can specify the width of the Stiles to create the correct width of your appliance or vice versa, then split that parent horizontally to add your second appliance. This is all in the video if I remember correctly

Post your plan please There are a number of difrerent fixes or possible problems...the easiest fix may be to set your shower wall as "no room definition" and then click on rebuild 3d..though this isnt a solution to the problem it may be a quick fix

Raytrace, post processing and Photoshop tips: Creating the look of an IES light through materials Here we have a simple bedroom scene where I have turned the light data to red The goal is to create the look of an IES light by examining the light as it interacts with the wall. Particulars of importance will be denoted by ALL CAPS, Photoshop will be used as my photo processor. Step 1) As shown above, set your recessed lights to be a color that can be recognizable as it casts onto the adjacent walls Step 2) Pull an elevation view and export this view AS A PNG file. Step 3) Delete the window and add your IES image file as a "soft light" and play with the opacities in blender to create the right look. Step 4) Crop your image to the constraint of the wall, it should look like this: Step 5) Export your image with overlayed lights and then import as a new material into CA. click on "stretch to fit" for material sizing. The following is a very basic and unrefined representation of the final look but it illustrates the point of adding IES lights for added realism. Notice the left wall has not been completed yet to show the difference between the two Please note THIS METHOD CAN BE USED TO DETAIL ITEMS SUCH AS IMPERFECTIONS IN A WALL OR DIRT.

Raytrace, post processing and Photoshop tips: Making a Material ID layer mask for post processing. Here we have a simple bathroom scene that we will create a Material/Object ID layer mask for better control of our post processing. The goal is to have a simple way of selecting particular materials or objects in photoshop(or your favorite photo-editing software) for individual settings such as contrast or exposure. Particulars of importance will be denoted by ALL CAPS Step 1) Setup your camera the way you like it and SAVE THE CAMERA(in plan view in the associated toolbar) . Step 2) SAVE YOUR PLAN, then we will resave the plan, giving it another name such as "Simple Bathroom Material ID Mask." Step 3) In "Simple Bathroom Material ID Mask," Switch to vector view, then open technique settings(same drop down as where you found vector view) and set shadow intensity to 0% and make sure "Opaque Window Glass" is checked. Step 4) Optional: Open your original plan and saved camera and start the raytrace process, if you have your system setup properly you should be able to raytrace and do the next steps simultaneously Step 5) In your "Simple Bathroom Material ID Mask" plan, start painting the materials in your room as basic color blocks. When you are finished, the room should look like this: Step 6) Export the current image IN ".PNG" FORMAT(jpeg is NOT lossless and you will get color artifacts in the export) then switch back to your original file's raytrace. Save the ray trace. You should now have two files, your raytrace, and the material ID image. Step 6a) For the purpose of this tutorial I am going to perform a second ray trace using only exterior lighting to get an overexposure outside. Step 7) Open your raytrace in a photo editing software that supports layers. For this tutorial I will be using Photoshop CC. Add your material mask as a separate layer and turn off the visibility of your mask layer. It should look like this: Notice the layers in the bottom right. The Material ID mask is selected yet visibility is clicked "off." Also notice I have used the magic wand tool to select just my shower surround and the window. You should begin to piece together why this Material ID mask is so useful!! I will now add my second render with my over exposed exterior behind my primary layer Step 8) Select just the window and switch to the overexposed exterior. (There are many ways to do the following, this is just one method) With an active select tool right click on our window selection and invert the selection. This will select everything but the window. Now we delete everything but the overexposed window scene. Back in the layer settings, I can move the opacity slider of the layer to effectively blend my new window with the original raytrace. Step 9) Tweak your raytrace, have fun with this, its a great tool for switching out colors or patters of materials while still maintaining proper lighting and shadows. This is a poor example as I didn't let the raytrace finish removing noise but look at what can be done with just a few quick clicks, perfect color changing or exposure/brightness/contrast tweaking in sections. This may be a confusing tutorial, I will add anything reasonable to this tutorial to clarify steps or purpose, Cheers,

I now do it in wall definitions and add a pony wall as my stem..it creates less problems for me for floor elevations, or I had a thought that you could change the number of sill plates for a wall and paint them concrete

shoot me a PM, if you download teamviewer you can do a screen share and I can show you how real quick

jtcapa, quoting kirkclemons as I don't use his particular method and generate my maps through photoshop only post an image if you would like it converted, cheers.

Danze Parma D220558.calibz

Yeah I was curious why my 5 page plansets in 2016 had to morph into 20 pages in 2017

shoot me a PM or email rene@daoustdc.com..Located in Alameda and Contra Costa counties, plenty of experience dealing with those Hellions at the City of Berkeley Etc.

That dialogue pops up anytime a user who does not have those files in the referenced location opens the plan file. Jenn Air is an appliance catalog so you should be able to just paint a grey on all appliances and go from there

Here you go: White Tile Subway 4 x 16.calibz

a good example of real world caustics, I was just curious if you had it turned on or off. I know that the windows add a pretty serious hit to raytrace times just like lights do, the less of either, the faster the times. maybe throwing the windows that arent in the scene onto an invisible layer may pay dividends. I'd actually be curious to see what would happen if you changed the ones in the scene to pass throughs..what would change for the lighting

Made this post specifically for Kbird1 and a PM discussion we were having. Post an image and myself or others will do our best to get you the corresponding Normals map..Here are a few to start:

try upping the line weight, like to 10

If exporting to sketchfab, the texture files can be easier to manage if you use placemarker textures...Always use the stock chief textures and then change the texture to your custom ones when in sketchfab..this will ensure your success on the import

agreed, Graham can a spot light be setup up for general exterior light but then a parallel light for rays coming into a room? Also do you have caustics turned on with your last trace?

very nice, giving cred

just shoot me a PM and I can do it for you..yes it's easy in photoshop for some, takes practice is all..have to make a black and white gradient map for the recessed features and blank out everything that is on an even plane, then create the Normals map

Okay here's a first pass render, 53 min to download the plan, export 3ds, setup lights, apply materials, make a couple normals maps and render at a low sampling rate. the graininess would go away if I upped it from a 13 min render to a 26 or even 39 minute ALSO, and this is a BIG ALSO...when I setup scenes like this for myself, I always set corner clipping on my cabinets to 1/16" and apply an eased edge to the countertop as well as leaving the waterfall edge a 1/32" up from the floor...there are no razor sharp edges in real life, there shouldn't be in your rendering either. Definitely makes a difference

nice, you'll have to post the plan, interested to see what you work out. scene is rendering in thea right now, 10 min left, in the meantime here's a Normals map for the tile backsplash I just made

The only thing I see this rendering needing is shadows around the waterfall edge and chairs, its as if they are floating off of the ground...maybe too many light sources or too strong ambient light? It's really getting close. are you using photon mapping or is this still on point with production renders? I remember the original topic was about speed, which for the speed this render is very well done. Downloading the plans now to play with, post back in a few

Ok so the Brick sill works with the curb wall, but I am having trouble applying this to an existing plan Here's the plan: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArIPOe8v1Srkgvg6I0RPWFXPbtq63g This plan has been chopped up quite a bit and I am attempting to repair it, the plan was to excavate 36"'s to create an ADU on the bottom floor. Which is why the bottom floor is set at -36" from the as built set. In future I would probably just drop the elevation of the terrain from the subfloor height 36" and set the floor at 0 Everytime I try your method for creating the curb, the furniture and soffits and moldings all jump up or float. So if you feel like playing with it be my guest. The method I used when I first posted seems to be working, especially since there are certain walls that have a 36" retaining wall with drywall at the interior

When you go to print from layout it will show properly, chief does this to save computer resources...you can also update the view with the spinning wheel(Update view) in the bottom tool bar when you select the view

You're the MAN, going to play with this and post-back, Also, how do you get fill on the mono in a sectional elevation?