How Can I Do This?


dneuman
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I also do them manually while looking at a 3d view at the same time, while adjusting the baseline height and modifying the framing. Remove the ridge and all fascia and eaves by changing to "0" some will default to 1/16 but that's ok.

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I do them manually ... I don't know of an automatic method that could be used to create these.  In your 2nd image, I would find out what elevation the top of gable fascia was where the roof dives into the other one (on the left) - using a CAD line or a point and then checking it to see what elev. the intersectio point is at.  A backclipped or elevation view can be used to find this out.  Then I would figure out what roof pitch I would want to use.  Next I would create a roof plane approx. the max. width and length I would need (actually probably smaller) and then shape it about like the one needed, creating the bottom edge with a single point as required.  Then I would make the fascia top elev. match the fascia top of the intersection of the two existing roof planes.  You can create this roof plane out away from the plan initially ... then do a point to point move using that bottom single fascia top point and move it to the point of intersection of the two roof planes.  Then it is just a matter of finishing shaping the new roof plane by using the join roof planes tool.  If for some reason you get the elevation of the single bottom point off a little, this should be quite evident when using the join roof planes tool.  You'll have to determine how much it is off and whether or not it has to be moved up or down ... then just make that adjustment using the transform/replicate object edit tool.  Good luck. 

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some jurisdictions require ice and water shield for any pitch

for the first 6'

 

on my new addition we did the shield for the entire roof

it had 6:12 pitch but was small enough roof area

that 6' up from eves just about got to ridge anyways

 

I live in the Buffalo NY area

but we also did shield on my house in VA for first 6'

 

Lew

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We would probably use a 2 ply Torch-on membrane at 3/12 or below , rather than ice shield plus shingles , I don't think long term i'd trust the ice shield with that number of holes in it ( shingle nails) to not leak despite being "self sealing" 

 

I can see doing it that way if highly visible as you wouldn't match the colours , torch-on>shingle.  we also use fiberglass base sheet on all roof , such as Malarky's UDL.

 

M.

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