dneuman Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I am having a hard time figuring out how to do a saddle. I want to be able to have it framed as well in the 3D framing view set. Any suggestions on how I can accomplish this on the Bucket roof render image? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Have you tried manually adding a new roof plane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I also do them manually while looking at a 3d view at the same time, while adjusting the baseline height and modifying the framing. Remove the ridge and all fascia and eaves by changing to "0" some will default to 1/16 but that's ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 note that Most Shingle Manufacturer's don't advise slopes less than 3/12 and personally I think that's pushing it especially in higher wind areas.... M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJSpud Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I do them manually ... I don't know of an automatic method that could be used to create these. In your 2nd image, I would find out what elevation the top of gable fascia was where the roof dives into the other one (on the left) - using a CAD line or a point and then checking it to see what elev. the intersectio point is at. A backclipped or elevation view can be used to find this out. Then I would figure out what roof pitch I would want to use. Next I would create a roof plane approx. the max. width and length I would need (actually probably smaller) and then shape it about like the one needed, creating the bottom edge with a single point as required. Then I would make the fascia top elev. match the fascia top of the intersection of the two existing roof planes. You can create this roof plane out away from the plan initially ... then do a point to point move using that bottom single fascia top point and move it to the point of intersection of the two roof planes. Then it is just a matter of finishing shaping the new roof plane by using the join roof planes tool. If for some reason you get the elevation of the single bottom point off a little, this should be quite evident when using the join roof planes tool. You'll have to determine how much it is off and whether or not it has to be moved up or down ... then just make that adjustment using the transform/replicate object edit tool. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommy1 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 We use an ice and water shield underlayment for anything less than a 3:12 pitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbuttery Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 some jurisdictions require ice and water shield for any pitch for the first 6' on my new addition we did the shield for the entire roof it had 6:12 pitch but was small enough roof area that 6' up from eves just about got to ridge anyways I live in the Buffalo NY area but we also did shield on my house in VA for first 6' Lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 We would probably use a 2 ply Torch-on membrane at 3/12 or below , rather than ice shield plus shingles , I don't think long term i'd trust the ice shield with that number of holes in it ( shingle nails) to not leak despite being "self sealing" I can see doing it that way if highly visible as you wouldn't match the colours , torch-on>shingle. we also use fiberglass base sheet on all roof , such as Malarky's UDL. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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