Sticks2Stones

keeping a closed cabinet toe and Arts & Crafts crown

Recommended Posts

Admittedly I'm new to CA.

 

tried to find this but didn't come up with anything

Ive got a client that wants a closed toe area on each base cabinet.  No big deal I thought but for the life of me I can figure how to "keep" the closed toe on base cabinets that are in between others.  it keeps removing the closed toe on those and only keeps it on the end cabinets.

see 1st picture

Help Please

 

2nd question.

Ive been looking for some way to make the crown she wants on the cabinets  see picture 2 below, with no luck.

like I said Im new to CA

 

Thank you for any help

 

post-11751-0-25713000-1472912573_thumb.png

post-11751-0-82404700-1472912582_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Admittedly I'm new to CA.

 

tried to find this but didn't come up with anything

Ive got a client that wants a closed toe area on each base cabinet.  No big deal I thought but for the life of me I can figure how to "keep" the closed toe on base cabinets that are in between others.  it keeps removing the closed toe on those and only keeps it on the end cabinets.

see 1st picture

Help Please

 

2nd question.

Ive been looking for some way to make the crown she wants on the cabinets  see picture 2 below, with no luck.

like I said Im new to CA

 

Thank you for any help

 

#2:  that is probably a bunch of solids,  tough to do that out of crown...  I think

 

#1:  that is a 24" cabinet with a toe space with (2)2" filler cabs with no toe and the another 24" cabinet with a toe space.    Cabinet feet might be an option but then you have to build your own toe out of a psolid and use cabinet feet.

post-50-0-60757600-1472913520_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could not find any settings to completely solve your problem in that the cabinets are programmed to meld together. I think Scott Hall's solution for question one would be a Poly Line solid or just a custom slab to emulate the inner style extension.

 

The crown mold I believe would require two steps: 1. a custom molding profile applied to the top of the cabinet and 2. Poly Line solids to emulate the triangular objects manually place in intervals to the applied custom crown molding profile.

 

I am sorry you are rather new and these procedures may seem foreign to you but you need to learn how to create these kinds of objects.

 

 

DJP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could not find any settings to completely solve your problem in that the cabinets are programmed to meld together. I think Scott Hall's solution for question one would be a Poly Line solid or just a custom slab to emulate the inner style extension.

 

......

 

 

Nuts,  what is wrong with the solution I proposed?  You can see what it would look like using the method I proposed ....  why is a psolid or a custom slab needed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brackets at the top would have to be added individually- do the molding how you wish- I'd use a wide top rail on the cabinets. I always use molding plines rather than adding molding to the cabinet. The extended flat at the top is easy and better controlled with plines.

 

As to the base cabinets-to me those are inset cabinets with "side and stile extended down"-that is how I'd order them.

 

To do that in cabinet DBX eliminate toe-0" height and 0" depth, for the front add a false drawer at the bottom whatever height you want (I used 4" here) delete the separation at the bottom,

The key then is for that drawer use a custom drawer symbols that has the "Y" origin offset. The examples to the right have a simple slab drawer that has been offset.

The one on the left has a custom symbol created for the purpose-this cleans up the inside edge of the toe kick but note that IRL that would have to be done in the field.

 

edited to add poic from second catalog- a little clearer

post-85-0-12157600-1472916010_thumb.png

post-85-0-85654000-1472916019_thumb.png

Stiles extended down.plan

post-85-0-66664800-1472916522_thumb.png

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

......As to the base cabinets-to me those are inset cabinets with "side and stile extended down"-that is how I'd order them.

 

To do that in cabinet DBX eliminate toe-0" height and 0" depth, for the front add a false drawer at the bottom whatever height you want (I used 4" here) delete the separation at the bottom,

The key then is for that drawer use a custom drawer symbols that has the "Y" origin offset. The examples to the right have a simple slab drawer that has been offset.

The one on the left has a custom symbol created for the purpose-this cleans up the inside edge of the toe kick but note that IRL that would have to be done in the field.

 

edited to add poic from second catalog- a little clearer

 

 

Interesting,  you may order it like that,  but I think my solution is still better for those that are clueless when it comes to ordering.

 

I see what you did,  you do not have a toe kick but a drawer-panel.......   can you control the depth of toe kick? ...... if you look at 3d,  you can see the z-fighting between the floor and the cabinet at the toe kick.

 

I do not think you defined the side and stile extended down.....  I think that was a result of what you built.......  a different method,  thanks Mark.

 

Hey Mark, I am not sold on your method.........

 

Mark,  if ordering was not an issue,  would you build it my way?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-50-0-59501900-1472920843_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scott-Z fighting, yeah I run into that on fridge cabinets and some mud room seats that have open bottoms. Doesn't show up in rendered view or RT. It's a Chief thing-annoying- wish it would go away but have not even requested that. Sometimes for clients I make it a tad taller and then set it down to the floor but then have to change it for schedules.

 

To control the depth of the toe space you have to adjust the Y origin in the symbol used for that.

 

Mark,  if ordering was not an issue,  would you build it my way?

 

Well -for me ordering is always an issue :)

My goal is always to have the model as it would be IRL- be it from the factory or in the field, same as you guys just at a different scale with stuff you don't usually have to worry about. There are a lot of things I feel important that only apply to my end of things. (showing fillers or extended stiles as 3/4" thick instead of full depth..)

 

I've done something like your method IRL when using frameless cabinets, a sort of mock inset. Some companies offer parts (pilasters) specifically for that purpose.

Cost of goods and the install gets pricey. IRL it makes the most sense if the pilasters are decorative, not flat.

 

In that case in CA, I'd use a skinny cabinet, adjusted depth, blank front. Fillers leave the toe area completely open. Decorative faces get challenging so would make a symbol for those.

 

OTOH, once upon a time that is exactly what I would have done, until I discovered fooling with symbol origins to get Chief to do what I wanted.

Changing symbol origins for doors and drawers starts to allow you to draw "lipped" doors and drawers, and integrated handles on doors- also used it to fake beaded inset (rarely, too much work)

post-85-0-84483200-1472923692_thumb.jpg

post-85-0-00945300-1472923705_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Closed Toe checked. Cabinets merge when closer than 1/8" eliminating the center style in the toe kick area.

 

Need a No Merge option.

 

Used a partition to fill in the gap between the left 2.

 

post-1284-0-56696200-1472931352_thumb.jpg

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Need a No Merge option

 

Agreed, same problem automatic behavior creates with clipped corners.

 

For this project, where every cabinet has it, with the program as it is now, the offset symbol can be used in the cabinet defaults AND cabinets will all read correctly in the schedule.

Just doesn't work if only "some" cabinets have it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Closed Toe is easy. 

 

Just block each Cabinet - or even every other one. 

 

You can do this by selecting a cabinet, then shift-select the same cabinet and click on the block icon.

Once blocked, the closed toe will remain even when adjacent to a cabinet that's not blocked.

post-47-0-61327400-1472936857_thumb.jpg

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blocking cabinets screws up the dimensions in the schedule, if that doesn't matter then it works.

post-85-0-79989500-1472939778_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blocking cabinets screws up the dimensions in the schedule, if that doesn't matter then it works.

Mark,  I don't see what you are talking about.  It appears that you had different cabinet widths and depths.  The Label Column and the Dimension Columns seem to be consistent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joe, that is exactly the problem. Those are three identical cabinets, 2 along the X axis, one along th Y axis. When you block them and include the block in the schedule Chief reads the dimensions based on the axis and not the cabinet. Try it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joe, that is exactly the problem. Those are three identical cabinets, 2 along the X axis, one along th Y axis. When you block them and include the block in the schedule Chief reads the dimensions based on the axis and not the cabinet. Try it.

Not when I do it.

 

3 identical Cabinets (18w24d36h)

Rotate #1 90 degrees and Block it

Block #3  and rotate 90 degrees

 

All three show correctly in the Cabinet Schedule.  I don't know what you're doing, but I am not getting any discrepancy in my Schedule.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

 

Uncheck "Treat as One Object" in the CAD Block dbx.

 

That's what's causing the problem in your plan.  The single object included in the Block is a Cabinet and will show in the Schedule correctly.  Only use that option when you are blocking 2 or more cabinets and want them to appear to be a single cabinet.

 

With the Custom Cabinet Face capabilities introduced in X7 & X8 I seldom need to use "Treat as One Object".  Only when I put cabinets together of different heights or depths that I want to be built as single units is that needed.  One other possibility is when blocking other object types such as a piece of furniture and a cabinet that I want to be considered a single cabinet unit.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just figured that out. Force of habit. I use blocks in every project just to get things (corbels,hoods,partitions,molding..) into the cabinet schedule. So automatically did that. Only ever blocked cabinets in an attempt to get a second cabinet schedule.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for all the responses.  We ended up going to the lake yesterday and Im just now getting back to this.

Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maintaining a closed toe will be an option in X9 using "Always Present"

post-14-0-31938200-1473134639_thumb.jpg

  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

  • Member Statistics

    27461
    Total Members
    6254
    Most Online
    WaunakeeDesigner
    Newest Member
    WaunakeeDesigner
    Joined