tundra_dweller

I was using Chrome for viewing pdf's and always had the line problem with solid fills, I've recently switched over to Nitro PDF Pro and still get them. Granted I haven't spent much time messing around with settings to try and figure out a solution, I'll just keep ignoring it or using hatched fills when possible for now.

I get the same thing on a lot of darker solid fills. It's annoying but I also try to ignore them.

Good to hear this is being fixed, I've seen the same thing on a few X16 plan>layouts I've worked on, but I haven't been using an up-to-date layout template so I wasn't sure if it was software or just my setup.

The only time I've had unexpected wall material issues was user error, usually caused by using the material painter. If I had to bet I would say your drywall material got inadvertently sprayed with your siding material and the scoping for the material painter was set to plan or floor. It took me many years to quit using the material painter on walls and use the wall types or material regions to change up materials instead.

Nice workaround!

Gotcha. Take a look at the width and elevation of the concrete pony walls at floor 0. The 1" height above floor is causing that little lip.

Hi Doug, I got rid of that profile by going to floor 0 and unchecking pony walls for all the walls. @Doug_N

I had to check and make sure this works and it does. I used a frieze molding from the core catalog.

I'm totally guessing here, but if you are trying to put an angle on your fascia (for example a gable end not having plumb and square cut fascia) I would think you could create a molding profile that is triangle shaped, and sized according to your fascia size and how much of an angle you want on it, then apply that molding profile as a shadow board to whatever roof edges you want it on. I have never done or tried this, but I think it would work, with some trial and error.

I see there's more of an offset between the dimension # and the line in the X16 version. Seems to only affect the short dimensions, and only the vertically oriented string. Something definitely wonky there it seems, and if I had to guess it would have to do with new dimension leader lines, as Doug kind of alluded to. Good catch.

Good deal. For future reference I'm pretty sure it is possible to make triangle windows using the shape tab in the window dbx and adjusting the individual corner heights & offsets too. I think the overlapping casing might fix itself if you mull the windows together.

If you have the Marvin window catalog downloaded in Chief there are triangle windows in there if you search for P3-1 & P3-2. You should be able to adjust the width & height to match your pitch, or the match roof function might work too. @winterdd

Interesting...definitely keeping my eye on this.

Or if you really really don't want to add a 2nd floor and the vertical stacking option doesn't do it for you, you could save a copy of the plan and remove the upper windows and use that 1st floor plan on your layout when you're all done. Not a great solution though.

Yeah that's really the only way you can do it unless you can paste them in the attic level at the same absolute elevation. And that's if you have any attic walls, which you probably don't if you're balloon framing your walls.

Here's an example of something similar I'm working on right now. Here is the bottom row of windows on the main floor plan: Here are the upper two rows of windows on the upper level plan. They're the same width so you don't see that there's two levels of windows, but I separate the labels so the upper window labels are further away from the wall, this works for me. There's also an option in the window dbx where you can designate vertical stacking levels, which makes the upper windows a couple shades lighter on the floor plan, you could see what that does for you.

Assuming your turret is made using multiple floor levels (1st, 2nd, etc.) you should be able to copy/paste/hold position from the lower floor to an upper floor or even the attic level. If you do I think you'll want to change the elevation reference in those windows to "absolute" instead of "from floor" before copy/pasting.

Good evening Jim, It should be entirely possible to auto roof this using invisible walls with room definition properties, or if you want to dive a little deeper check out Roof Baseline Polylines in the help files. I would probably use a hybrid method of auto roof to start and then turn off auto roof and manually adjust the roof edges as needed. I would probably use a normal exterior wall to define the outermost boundaries of the roof, then turn off auto roof and adjust manually from there.

Definitely seems like something strange going on. Also If you take an east-west backclipped section you get the terrain line cut off on the high side near the foundation.

Try the attached adjusted plan, I think this might be what you're looking for. Because you have all your foundation walls set to balloon through ceiling above (essentially hanging your floor system inside the foundation), even though your stem walls are set to 37.5", they are automatically building 12.625" taller than that to balloon through to the floor above. So I subtracted 12.625" from your stemwall height, which makes the overall stemwall height 37.5". The two garage walls that aren't immediately adjacent to the main floor system still won't build to the height you want, so I edited those two framed walls on the main floor to have a pony wall type the same as your foundation wall, and set the pony wall elevation to 0", which makes the tops of those pony walls the same level as the rest of the foundation walls. The only other thing I did was change the sill plate dimension in your default foundation wall to a 2x8 instead of the 8x8 it was set at. Hopefully this helps. Oneal adjusted x15.zip

@BerthaLee Hi Susan, try changing the floor elevation and stemwall settings in the garage foundation room to what's shown in the picture below, that seemed to work for me.

Leader lines for dimensions in tight spaces. Now we just need the ability to place additional text above or below the dimension numbers. Girder truss lines and roof truss direction lines. Makes for much better control of auto truss framing results. Poche fill options, nice for clean & simple section views. The ability to dimension to and move individual railing newel posts. Definitely an improvement but I still find myself building post & beam porches manually with framing members for finer control. Action history "browser" for undoing/redoing multiple commands at once. Those are my favorite new features that I've had a chance to use, I'm sure I'm missing some and haven't found some yet. Nothing groundbreaking but some nice improvements overall. ***Also, some nice improvements to deck framing like flush beams and finer control of beam & post placement.

That seems like a pretty good solution to me. I might be wrong but I think you can paint wall types from the user library, so if you had a catalog of wall types saved in your library you could paint your sample walls to suit whatever your different plan walls are.

I think I ran into the same thing as you are with pony walls and walls with footings a while back when trying to put together a dynamic wall schedule, and that's when I decided to just use a generic wall legend cad detail. I couldn't find a solution at the time, but you may be more persistent than I was.

@JKEdmo Sounds like you haven't played around with schedules in Chief much so you may not be aware that you can open up your schedule and select which items you want included in each different schedule. Another thing you can do is have a separate "master" plan file that contains your commonly used walls and create a "wall legend" schedule and put it in a cad detail that you can send to your layouts in any plan. That way you can make the walls look however you want and call them whatever you want and they won't affect your working plans. You could make several wall legends from your one master plan depending on which wall types you're using on your working plan.