MarkMc

I've posted plan "kits" in the past for making cabinet door symbols (including these) but this just came up over in the QA section so here is a small library of wainscot panels as cabinet doors. Basically these are center panels with no molding that I use as "side panel inset" to make new door symbols or integrated sides of cabinets. Wainscott.calibz

Late to the party as was on the train. Assuming you want panels on the underside of the section above the doorway? Similar to Michaels solution (and Chopsaw) it's a symbol. Instead of just using a cabinet door I used an entire cabinet- used a wainscot panel door I had and a back insert door to make the verticals line up with the front. Did not mess with stretch zones- here's plan with finished piece at 72" and the parts used. Over door box all.plan

Are you blocking the group first? what version are you using? No problem here using X9 and blocking items first. If you are blocking them then do as Eric suggests, if not try that first.

I believe Chief usually offers training at the Northeast JLC show which is in March. Gives you time to get beyond beginner if that's where you are now? They're also offering training at IBS/KBIS in Orlando in January. I started with an online course from Chief and had the two employees I trained start that way. Granted our work is different but not by all that much.

It has two floors

If structure doesn't matter you can set the exterior walls to balloon through ceiling above, at least that works on a simple box in X9-I had more luck NOT doing all the exterior walls at once for some odd reason and I did not try just changing the default structure. Anyway, worth a shot.

Either use a back clipped section OR change the wall the cabinet to no room definition (then the perpendicular wall doesn't show without a kludge (included) OR make the cabinet in the closet in two pieces- one that is in front of the wall and the other inside OR make that wall/opening out of psolids. Second option included here. FWIW 30" deep is kinda cumbersome at that width cabinet. Plan_fix.plan

That card should work make sure that Chief is using it and not the Intel Card- should open Nvidia Control panel -manage 3D settings and add Chief to it.

Have never hit 100 but have easily used a couple of dozen if I've been down a rabbit hole, usually making symbols.

Have you called tech support? Undo was very much improved with either X8 or 9 (can't remember) Just tested mine again- most objects are almost instantaneous, roof planes are a bit hitting 2.5 seconds on my machine. I have maximum undos set to 100, that used to be a bottleneck and had to be kept lower. Maybe another setting?

Start with the NP9175 which is full HD same as the MSI instead of adding in $$QHD. I configured this at Xotic Operating System: 1 x Windows® 10 Pro 64-Bit Edition Preinstalled (Clean Install | Drivers Only | No Bloatware) (SKU: SGR6825) Graphics Video Card: 1 x NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1080 (8GB) GDDR5X (Pascal) DX12 (SKU: SGR91721080) Ram: 1 x 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 2400MHz Dual Channel Memory (SKU: SGR8156R32) Slot 1 M.2 SATA/PCIe: 1 x 500GB Samsung 960 Evo NVMe M.2 SSD (SKU: SGR1201) 2.5" Bay 1: 1 x 1TB (7200rpm) (SKU: sgr9643) Wireless Networking / Bluetooth: 1 x Intel® Dual Band AC 8265 802.11 A/AC/B/G/N 2.4/5.0GHz + Bluetooth™ 4.0 [M.2 Chip] (SKU: SGR6876) for $3034, likely the about the same price if you put two 256 in Raid 0. FWIW they almost always run a sale right around Christmas-New Years. Saves 1-300 bucks. Though the model I listed will be popular with the gamers. Sager isn't on a lot of places "lists" mostly only find reviews from hardcore gamers or notebook sites. Clevos is the largest laptop maker in the world, maybe the largest gaming maker, there are a lot of boutique brands out there that are nothing more than Clevos with a nice logo. Sager is no BS brand. Before Dell bought them ALL alienware laptopsa were Clevos. I've been running nothing but laptops for about 12 years, on my second Clevo and there is another in my future when the 9th gen CPU and Volta comes out next year.

Scott-Didn't notice the drives, still the MSI starts with no name drive Sager starts with a Western Digital. (I'm a Samsung fan). the ram can be had no sweat. I'd still be going for the newer processors (and I'm a hardcore Clevo fan). I'd also aim for a smaller but better SSD for the C drive and a HDD for storage Might call the folks at XoticPC and talk with them-buncha geeks who use and service the machines they selll (Sevena gaming brand availbale)

You can get all that and an 8700k for the same money

Just got the smaller machine in my sig-runs X9. I only tested a small plan but had sent a 25mb plan to Graham who has the older version and it's just fine. Not going to be Raytracing on it. For what I had in mind it's fine and the price was right last week. If I wanted a better light secondary machine I'd wait for the 8th generation HQ series, will be more video card options when that happens early 2018. The larger Sager is all else I use with up to 3 external monitors and generally unrestrained bad behavior, If I were getting a new machine now I'd get another- current verison with an 8700k From what I've seen and checking loads on my machine I'd aim for a 1060 GPU as the most bang for the buck (6BG) and stick the extra $$ somewhere else. I always add in an Intel card, my Sager has both that and the Killer card. For hauling the beast, I sprung for an Everki Titan a few months back after I checked just about every pack on the market (in another life I was a pattern/sample maker/craftsman/designer in the leather industry). It's almost as nice as my Ospreys.

I'd guess you already did a search but here's some info. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physically_based_rendering http://blog.teamtreehouse.com/beginners-guide-physically-based-rendering-unity http://www.vd-3d.com/physically-based-rendering/

This looks right AND can read correctly in a cabinet schedule. Reduce the width of a tall cabinet by stile with, make the stile you don't want extended "0", place a filler the stile width next to cabinet, uncheck filler, set tall cabinet and stile to 26 deep. Block together, copy past in place, reflect. Open block and select include in schedule, change the label to suit. Now looks right and reads correctly in the schedule. I forgot-uncheck include in schedule for tall cabinets and fillers, And suppress label for them as well. Was in a hurry, past my bedtime.

As Eric said post the plan be sure to "place molding profile" into the plan and put a red circle or box around it. Also note from my first post that you need two molding profiles, one for left and one for right. Open the each molding line to see the difference.

3D molding lines can act odd. Draw a simple line (curve) and mirror it before you convert it. Also makes snapping easier. (Just went through this with a prairie mullion door). It's a good idea to turn off "connect CAD segments" too.

But then you would have issues with the material origin.

There is simply no way to set stretch planes or zones to accommodate that. Instead of simply resizing it would have to alter the number of slats. You would need a lot of stretch planes to make it work. I guess you could do it with a 3 panel but then the panels will become the wrong size. It would have to work something like framing. I suppose that is possible but to set that up for a very few cabinet door styles (that are not all that common I've sold one in 20 years) doesn't qualify as a bug to me. I can't imagine what that would end up doing to all the other door styles.

Attached is a plan with doors, wainscott panels to make doors, the parts I used to make the wainscot, and the cabinet used to make the door. These are typically done in separate plans I just included it all in one for simplicity. Did this quickly so molding, slat bevel, and in some cases stretch areas may need adjustment. From there it's up to you if you want adjustments. Slat assortment.zip

You need a second door symbol, one with fewer slats, same as IRL

You can't import 2020 catalogs. You don't need to. Short answer-there is a video (don't remember who recorded and posted it)- I think in the tips section- from a goto meeting I did last year. In that I touch upon most of what you need but it did run off track from what I wanted to get done. I gave up 2020 years ago despite owning a copy and having used it for 15 yrs. I currently handle 3 brands with 3 lines each and have used Chief and this system for 3 others over the last 6 years. In general-you are going to set up templates for each brand OR use a template for type of structure/ceiling height etc and import defaults for the cabinets from another plan as needed. To make the template work for a brand you MUST use the cabinets from the build menu NOT the cabinets from any of Chiefs libraries (they don't follow the dynamic defaults well enough) Make a folder for each brand in your user library. You will want to keep the most commonly used cabinets that take time to configure-3DB, 4DB, 2DB, microwave, trash poullout(S), oven, fridge- like that. You can add them as you make them or spend a little time and do a batch to start with. I like to keep those cabinets all at 15" wide (for use with "replace from library") For each of those cabinets add ALL of the most commonly used modifications to one of the OIP fields (I use the Code field). It is easier to delete them than to add them. I also keep lists of mods both in a spreadsheet and a shorter list copied from the sheet to stored Stickies (zhornsoftware.co.uk). You can drag and drop the code for the mode from the sheet or the stickie to the OIP field. (protect the sheet and it will only copy, hold ctrl dragging from a stickie) Do you design work with just the cabinets from the build library, set sizes to what you need. Once done, go around and use replace from library to place your saved cabinets. Resize each one as needed as you go. OR if you can just drag the user library cabinets in as you go-(I find the first method faster YMMV) You have to make a choice about how you deal with finished sides. Chief has fixed the labeling but not how they work. SO you either need to set your defaults for side to 1) ALL unfinished (my preference) 2) to auto knowing some will be missing and some finished that should not be 3) set them all to finished. Whichever method you MUST go back and fix something. Pick the one that will allow you to avoid mistakes. Door styles-I've posted several versions of plans in the symbols section to use as a kit to make your own door styles. It is very quick, quicker than rummaging though a bunch of other brands looking for a close match. Learn how to make door symbols, you won't regret it. Pricing- The GTM video I mentioned goes over how to get an order out of a Chief schedule- again it went a bit off track. I hope to have one to Scott Harris before KBIS though at this point it will be brief. The biggest trick to doing this well is the labels. Naturally the cabinets in your user library for each brand will have the correct labels. For the rest-If your brand happens to match Chief's labels your are in luck. If not the alternative's are a custom macro (I've done one or two that are close to ok-again likely in some of the plans I've posted in the past) OR you change labels as needed either in Chief. Getting the order out of Chief-simply have the columns you need set in Chief. Select the schedule, copy. Paste special (as plain text-comma deliminted) into a spread sheet. From there you either manipulate the sheet to copy and paste your data into a spreadsheet template of an order form OR better yet simply drag and drop from the copied sheet into your brands on line ordering system. The advantage of the latter is you won't have to look up pricing. For the one brand I have that does not have an online system I use a spreadsheet template and look up the prices in a pdf catalog (with my own added bookmarks) using multiple monitors. Pricing and ordering is very quick.

Just info I was looking for (from a reliable source) thanks Graham. I've been considering one of these as a part time secondary machine. Now to sell the idea to the CFO

Nice one Glenn, works easily. Just changed the material for the inside of the railing wall to match the exterior. Thought I would have seen that on one of the shower wall discussions but don't recall such, would work nicely there.