MarkMc

Members
  • Posts

    4305
  • Joined

Everything posted by MarkMc

  1. Not at computer. Suggest posting in Q&A and post a plan. That may be easier with pony wall.
  2. Check ALL the DBX pages and settings. Bottom rail is a drop down in the rails tab. I'm using X9- did you download the plan I posted?
  3. No problem, happens a lot with new users regardless of language. Attached quick plan- look in the railing dbx and explore settings also need to to adjust the walls below to balloon through ceiling. Balconey.plan
  4. Railing, panel type, change railing height and include bottom railing, distance off floor zero BTW your question really belongs in th Q&A section
  5. This should get you started. Began with a line, determine points for curve and add breaks, check the dimensions, convert to curve. Then add sides and bottoms till it is a polyline. Copy in place, move one copy disconnect everything but the curve. Convert the curve to 3d molding line. Convert the polyline to a Psolid. Mess with the sides of the moldings (tip add break points first) Scroll work is in library. If you want beaded inset and chamfers I've posted stuff on that in symbols a while back- not for the faint hearted that bit.. Have fun. This took under 15 minutes but expect to spend a lot more time if just learning this stuff. Save often!! Curved top.plan
  6. Depends- First with full arch was a quicky since the cabinets with cureve were existing and doing a favor to add the dark corner cabinets. Used an arched door way, fiddled with walls, forced cabinets in place, converted from a cad detail to create the molding. Second is not curved top but gets the idea- how it would be done IRL by adding a pediment at the top- make a custom symbol, that's what is on the top of this cabinet. Third and plan slapped together as principle if you needed curved doors as well. Custom door (stretch plane defined to prevent height resize), mess with the cabinet and add a custom pediment at the top. Arch door.plan
  7. No you are not off base, that is exactly what is going on. They may someday be able to allow snapping to openings the way we can to toe kick but for now the answer is Detail from view. I do it all the time, no big deal other than keeping it current to the model.
  8. Might find some useful information in this thread
  9. Up to V9 that only works for inset cabinets, not overlay doors. It takes forever, prone picking the wrong line, difficult to adjust and every now and then they would simply disappear if you switch tabs. (as did notes). Impossible to get a CAD editable elevation. I first used v5.6? In 2000 and worked with it exclusively till 2011. Continued his use it sporadically for able 3 years. The biggest mistakes I made learning Chief were continuing to use 2020 and thinking it should work like 2020. Once I put 2020 completely behind me and tried to understand how Chief thinks progress became rapid.
  10. Welcome. One thing I failed to mention. I design everything with those cabinets from the Build menu. Once I have sizes use "replace from library" to place the saved cabinets from the user library. I save most all of them at 15" wide. They will be that size when you use it to replace. So replace one at a time and drag to fit the space you had. This avoids the program telling you the cabinet won't fit. The other thing is I move the folder to the top of the user catalog by preceding the name with spaces, dashes and or underscores. Changing as the need arises. For many projects I will also make a folder for that project- again keeping it at or near the top. I then copy any relevant items likely needed to that folder-cabinets, door symbols, millwork, appliances, materials- everything. That way anytime I'm using a DBX to change things it will automatically be going to that folder (so long as that is where I picked the defaults from). I don't EVER use shortcuts in the library because then it will go to the folder where the shortcut points to rather than my job specific folder. When job is completely over , if I made any project specific symbols I move them, then delete the folder.
  11. To be clear this becomes a primary license at the price. I pay a higher transfer fee since it is a secondary.
  12. Add cabinets to your user library. I keep them by maker and try to have as much set to use "dynamic defaults" as possible. To that end I only use cabinets from the main "build" menu when creating variations. For the cabinet use a framed cabinet and delete the bottom separation. If you need it to be frameless just make the default separations 3/4" This is all using X9 Premier. Be a good idea to add version of software and some computer information to your signature.
  13. No longer need my second license. $1900 to get including transfer fees I have to pay. I have the transfer papers ready. SSA does NOT transfer with the license. You can get that from Chief for $495 (recommended) If you did that you'd be in for $2395, saves $400 since the base price from Chief went up. contact mark@markjamesandco.com
  14. Maybe for expediency but in the long run, it's well worth learning a little up front and developing a system. It will save time and prevent mistakes. Can save time keeping common configurations in your user library and "replace from library" then tweak to suit current conditions. Once in a while I just fish out old plans for details. Last I knew 2020 (I have V9) won't dimension openings either.
  15. If you are using Chief Premier then you can use Detail from view to be able to dimension openings. I use an annoset/layerset that turns off what I don't want to have in the CAD detail. Usually no walls, casings, doors windows or appliances AND NO cabinet doors. You can do it with just a layerset but I have the annosets for different scales. Once done, clean up errant lines, dimension as needed, select all and set it to it's own layer (CAD Openings or such). Then select all and copy it back into your elevation using PASTE and HOLD postion make the layer visible and LOCKED. This allows you to see if you changed something and the dimensions are off. Alternate method is to copy cabinets to a special room for the purpose of getting dimensions. Same procedure BUT you can't readily tell if you changed dimensions. So it's a bit riskier. Using either method the dimensions are NOT LIVE- that is if you change the model they don't change- they are just dumb CAD lines. So you would have to redo them. Grabbed the wrong ones for the first two, didn't notice but you get the idea. IF you do not have Premier download one of the free 2D cad programs out there (or buy a cheap one) export as DWG, then import. Problem with that is copy and paste and hold is not reliable.
  16. Saw you needed it for a 135 degree wall. 3 cabinets, the susans I made early floated, some psolid shelves. Cheryls cabinet.plan
  17. You can get a corner cabinet to indicate susans in plan view using the DBX- but they won't be accurate to how it is build. If what you need is to show susans in 3D with door open then here is one choice. Can't use this as a cabinet with an exposed side (should be obvious) The trick I normally use to fix sides inserting into back doesn't work with the susan in the right side. It would work with it in the left but I was not about to find the correct origins and angle after getting it on the right. Sides will not read correctly in schedule- so just if you need a 3D- susans are 28" D per your spec. Diagonal corner with susan.plan
  18. If you only need a diagonal corner sink base any appropriately sized cabinet can be turned into one-i.e a 36 x 24, then select corner, check diagonal. IF OTOH you want to have that notch at the back as IRL it has to be made from 3 cabinets and the center one needs an increased depth. You can block it and save it. For corner sink bases I used recessed ones for the extra clearance- similar problems. In all cases you will want to adjust the reveals.
  19. I've used some Mesh reducing software on troublesome symbols. There are a few freebies out there. I don't do it often enough to recommend one since I never remember which one I use (might be Meshlabs??) You want one that lets you see what you get so that the symbol still looks decent. Would have to export the symbol on it's own first before opening in the app.
  20. Another way- this is a bit harder to set up but once done can be used to replace multiple identical windows at one time. (Can be pretty cool doing this live for a client:) Make the "open" window symbol as Eric describes but define it as Millwork but change the angle and origin of it. The tricky part is finding the correct origins. I started with what I thought- then began adjusting the symbol in the library and dropping it on in 3D view. I started with a standard casement window then added the millwork window as a shutter to only one side and adjusted the width of the shutter. Then adjusted the symbol origins in the library and dragged onto a 3D view until it was correct. Once I was happy with the placement of the open window (shutter) I changed the actual to a pass through (I don't know if that matters). Add to library, change the name. Then use replace from library to change the other windows. If the width of the window changes then the width of the shutter must be changed in the DBX. You can change a left opening to a right by reflecting it about itself. It doesn't show open in plan view and I don't think you can access the CAD blocks to change them. Awning window is similar but uses "exterior millwork above casing" with similar finding correct origin difficulties. (trial and error) It appears that if the height of the window is changed the origin must change for the "open" awning window. A tad more difficult to use than the Casement. EDIT Just saw that you are awnings are at the bottom- then I'd make the symbol with two windows, one open one closed. The rest is the same. Plan with both types of window and two "open" symbols attached. Open the window DBXs to see what's going on and "open symbol" to see origins and such. It might be easier if the "open" symbols were made closer to the size needed to begin with but then again maybe not. I was just playing so did not fuss much once I had something. Open casements and awning.plan
  21. I only keep back two versions for the first 6 months of a release, then only one old one. I can install older ones in a pinch if I really needed to. A few folks here, like David Potter, keep all versions going back to forever. Maybe he'll chime in with what he does or you could search forum and it may already be somewhere.
  22. Select the walls you want framing for, once highlighted "build framing for selected object" icon on bottom.
  23. When I went to export it as a single item it's automatically "untitled ". So my bad for not naming the file to match. Of course having an organized user library makes finding new adds easier. Mine is overdue for a clean up that I'm not looking forward to, have a couple of misc folders made to keep the bottom clear. Maybe Santa will send some elves.
  24. Search for Hood with straps. Stanisci is the catalog that had the symbol I started with, new in the last month.