MarkMc

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Everything posted by MarkMc

  1. Or two angled front cabinets, turned and mirrored-fronts are facing each other-side for door so no need to float doors so will change with defaults..... BUT you will have to clean up the toe kick. One version has fronts as blank the other has an opening with the top separation removed.
  2. I gave it a shot and can't reproduce the issue.
  3. Draw the line while using the plot plan annotation set (OOB) then set the text style there so as not to create issues with text elsewhere.
  4. I get a light set so I'm happy with it. Copy and paste-sometimes it will be there in 3d and ray trace, sometimes no light in ray trace (too many lights for it to show in standard) I've had them go away when I just centered them to a cabinet? It seems that they attach to the ceiling? or somewhere else? Sometimes offset from ceiling works, sometimes not, sometimes transform replicate works... How do I get these to stay put? Screenshots- Placed an extra in there for the ray trace out over the counter- that one shows, one under wall cabinet doesn't. Lights.zip
  5. Copy sink to user library- then open symbol, adjust the symbol origin, options and stretch planes-trial and error until it works (learn by doing). Sink placed in the cabinet- custom counter top with adjusted cutout -had to delete the original counter top removed from the cabinet which BTW I did not know or expect but learned by doing. No fillers, no extra separations- just another way to solve it. (I've used the other methods mentioned as well for apron sinks) BTW, if a client wanted aisle spaces that narrow I'd refuse the job-not that you asked.
  6. Nice tip Glenn-works for me- now to add a keyboard for edit RT in place.
  7. I thought about this a bit more, played with a little. Depends on what you need- what I suggested works really well with inset cabinets, not so good with overlay if you want doors and such to be accurate. I tried altering a face a few ways so that the separation did not go to the top of the cabinet-not so good, tried a custom symbol for a stile (stiles DON"T go all the way through a cabinet) also NG. Ended up with two cabinets per attached. (I have no idea why the arch block resizes once the sink is centered in it) If I needed a correct schedule for this I'd export it as dae then import as a cabinet symbol. The only problem with that is once it's imported there is very little you can do with it. Some variations. I saved the plan for my own future use. Split vanity3.plan
  8. I see, the symbol I was using from basic library has origin at 8-7/8" so the numbers didn't make sense to me.
  9. if that is all one cabinet and not two as Eric suggests change the separation to a blank area and it will go away. May have to adjust width to make reveals proper.
  10. I'll go along with 1/2", not 7-3/4 it still needs to be placed into the upper drawer cabnet ..bottom cabinet deleted sink goes away, top drawer deleted sinks drops down to the lower cabinet.
  11. Um, uh, yes, no, sort of-7-3/4 means it is in the lower cabinet. I have no doubt that the sink is set for a 1-1/2" counter and the faucet would look a little better if adjusted by 1/2" OTOH you can certainly get away with the look left alone. I had done it prior to posting-attached -all counters left alone as custom set at 1". left is OPs, center the drawer is set to have a 1" counter, right drawer has no change so set to have 0" counter. sinks.plan
  12. The reason that you had to offset the sink is it is placing in the lower cabinet. Which made me remember that I moved that lower cabinet out of the way before placing the sink into the drawer cabinet- no need to adjust the symbol. Note that there is a difference if the top cabinet (drawer) is not given a counter-the sink still looks as if it fits but is set down by the thickness of the counter so the faucet sits low. X8 doesn't have variable overhangs but the advantage of custom counters is that they can be shown on their own for a counter top drawing. (turn off all layers but cabinets counters and you will only see custom counters- standard ones don't show)
  13. Your drawer section has no counter so the sink is being placed based on the cabinet below. I can only guess you started with a counter on that one? In any case- Select the sink -cabinet will select first, hit tab so sink is outlined, then delete it. Add 1" to the height of the drawer section and then add a 1" countertop. Then add your sink. In general it is easier to start with a counter on the cabinet, then convert it to a custom counter. Often need to open the counter DBX and uncheck set height or thickness from cabinet but still easier to start there. When making custom counter from an existing one I only select a single cabinet's top then resize.
  14. Sure thing Michael, works better than the one I was using, was a good tip.
  15. Not AFAIK. You can download the entire Rev-A-Shelf catalog in 3d DWG from their site but still a pain to convert. I'd make it in Chief -attached is a start and some parts- cabinet with "drawer" symbol is set with method Alaskan Son Developed. You'd still need to add rails to it. I mostly use Hafele so didn't bother to mess with it. Besides, be good practice for ya RAS panbtry PO.plan
  16. The door he is working with has no rails or stiles. I doubt that 2020 would behave differently, that is on my old computer at the office (I refuse to load it onto this one) To be able to keep the space between the lines consistent a stretch plane would be needed between each. I don't don't know the detail at the joint- correct width? chamfer or radius? Attached is a plan with one way to have cabinets that resize and keep the same detail size. (I also don't know if as the cabinet gets smaller there are fewer panels?) The door made from a psolid has only1/16 chamfers. Trick is to set stretch zones and use individual panels BUT for it to work the cabinet construction gets messy. Alternative is as I noted to make individual door symbols per size-have an example in the plan ready to be turned into a symbol (BUT I usually make them from wall cabinets so do that first) Is it worth it? I fuss a lot to make sure all my rails, stiles and raises remain consistent, BUT ....lets assume 1/8" chamfer, total distance between edge of chamfer is 1/4", standard on a 15" door. That means that on a 24" wide door it goes to 0.04" (I don't use doors larger than 21" so would be less). Now print that out at 1/2" to the foot. Difference in print is 0.0025". Even with 1/4" chamfer printed variation is 0.005" Key Largo.plan
  17. Doors are set to resize consistently across the total width, there is no way to force the distance between the verticals to remain constant as the door resizes for that door. The only option would be to make assorted custom door symbols.
  18. Heading home and did not save the file, just dropped some stuff into a plan I was working on then deleted it. What I show is pretty basic, no custom symbols or weird hacks ... just takes seeing what the configurations do. If you're going to be doing "custom" you at least need to know that much and the only way is to dig in and see. Advanced stuff -custom door symbols for odd parts, inserting parts into cabinet backs or sides, for that I've posted some plans in the tips section but just the plan. You have to open the cabinet DBX to get an idea of how they work- none of that is needed here though.
  19. Sorry, I missed that- some funny things happen with that.
  20. All of the parts pictured are cabinets. To make the side panels change configuration of the side and the back of a cabinet. After you make one, copy it and reflect it about itself for the second one. (I likely set construction as framed, using 0 separation and 0 reveal. Might be a good idea to take a look at the reference manual section on cabinets, maybe some Chief videos...and then just dive in and see what each element of cabinet configuration does. There really is no substitute. A little knowledge of cabinet construction helps too. The width of the drawer is the same as the width of the cabinet, just as you have drawn?? Depth would be based on what you specified after making allowance for overlay compared with inset. (depends on how you make the parts)
  21. Not sure why you have to do that unless your door opening is oversize?
  22. Same way I'd have it built. Since going wall to wall sides need to allow for scribe so would be loose pieces. Drawer would depend on who I had making it- with some I'd have them combined ahead, others shipped as two parts and make provision for simple field joining. In any case I'd make them as separate pieces in Chief.
  23. Default would be in Floor. Problem with bottom is with the wall definition. Plan reset to 10ft finished ceiling. Reference manual Chapter 9 CHIEF_JULY_UPDATE_KITCHEN_10ft.plan
  24. Select one post, then "match properties" (ctrl + j on my system) check automatic label 6 x 6 post, then click drawing order, set to first group. Dunno why that plan blanked, musta been pilot error. Here is replacement. (though I'd agree with Michael about losing the labels) any way this does them all at once. Label Test.plan