MarkMc

If I had to do this I would only bother to figure out what is the best fit across the faces. Set that then increase depth. I would never bother to try to fit the back into the corner because it's wasted space that can't be reached, unlikely that the corner is perfect, a waste of extra $$. Which leaves how to find the fit. Per attached image- if full overly will need to at least have "zero fillers" on each side, if not available then need to work out filler width so doors work. Else do what Eric suggests if you feel you must.

The only parameter to alter would be the molding vertical offset. If "selected line" is changing on it's own I don't know why. Here are the selected line settings for vertical what I sent you, I simply drew a rectangle and this is what those were. and horizontal

there is no reason to change the selected line. Attached is a metric plan with 3D molding line for you to examin. Offsets are in mm with one to the inside and one to the outside. molding offset.zip

This is a 3D molding line with second molding offset with a wall material region in the center. If you want to convert to a symbol then need a solid in the center instead. Plan attached with a few options if you want to have top bottom spacing not equal to side spacing. Lights- yes there are differences from X12. It looks as if you are using standard view, lights show better in PBR even without ray tracing on (put your computer spec in signature please) Left side shows PBR, right side shows standard. Dbl molding options.zip

I've got a client that does a lot of closets and one of the designers he uses changes shelf spacing all the time. This is based on what I worked out for that and honest it's becomes faster than the alternative of building the cabinets (especially handling revisions) Verticals are partitions, horizontals are individual 3/4" high cabinets (I used base here but for the closets I use wall cabinets for the shelves since there are items on the floor), the back is a wall material region. Set all of these in the default first if you have more than a few to do. Use transform replicate to copy and move shelves. You can then dimension to them. Only down side is needing to suppress the shelf thickness (which I don't need to do for the closets but you can do that all at once in the dimension DBX If there are a lot of these or something done often then you can set up style palettes for shelves at different heights. PS- next time please upload a screen shot instead of PDF. cabinet shelves dims.zip

an alternative to making the throw - back clipped section, draw guide line at center, polyline, start to add a few points, change lines to curves, copy and reflect, polyline union, if you still have a line on the bottom disconnect and delete. Convert polyline to 3D molding line, set molding height and depth. An advantage being if it's a little off you can adjust thickness, offset of molding and or height.

Search for EULA in help turns up exactly the same language regarding transfer in X12,13, and 14. It would appear that what has changed is what they are willing to approve NOT in the language.

Far right were done as fixtures interior insert into wall- Made with 3 cabinets to get the curved back in the photo supplied. Not simple Left is just a straight cabinet. Did that as a fixed door which makes the casing easier to control. To me using cabinets for the original is also easier to control.

Here's a plan used to make something like what you are after for the open shelves. I went toward making symbols as cabinet doors and using cabinets for the shelves. Open cab DBX and check construction and faces. Symbols included open symbol and check origins and stretch planes. You can make the as fixtures interior instead, I made one complete as a fixture interior. YMMV. Gotta run Shelves.zip Shelves.zip

Also Dimension Defaults Temporary Dimensions Wall Defaults, General Wall Defaults, Resize About- so that when you continue the last dimension doesn't change....

SSA stands for Support AND Software Assurance. Software assurance = updates and version upgrade. I'm not a fan of subscriptions. I've always stayed on SSA no matter what and intend to even though I'm practicing retirement and cutting back. Amounts to 1 days billing per year. I am happy that continues to work the same as before. I think it's a great deal (maybe even generous-see 2020 below) I suppose if you don't bother to stay up to date it's not so good for you and calls for a decision. New licenses, well not so good needing a subscription. OTOH when I needed to carry a second license the cost would not have been a big deal, just part of overhead. The profit made off less than 2 weeks of the employee would cover the cost. If I felt I had to raise rates to cover the $2k well $2k divided by what 200, 150 billable days. At 150 days that an increase in billing of $13.33/day or $1.65/hr. Then too I see a real advantage to monthly there and it was a PIA selling the secondary when done. Selling licenses-that doesn't really bother me either. It was deductible in the first place. In every business I ever had I always considered any tool paid for once it was. I have somewhere between $5k and $10k of defunct no saleable software over the years. KDs and IDs make up half my client base. I don't see what if Interiors will still be available or how that works. OTOH for the kitchen folks the primary competitor is 2020 which is subscription, $100 less per year no monthly nobody was grandfathered (upgrades always were an issue anyway) . Don't know what alternative there is for IDs. Possible I'd lose a client. Then again though I've already let a few go.

Messing with custom window symbols never makes me happy so.... I first just used a shutter and changed the width. Then went and grabbed one out of the library, deleted the frame,converted to symbol. Placed that symbol, added molding and eventually some solids. Finally used a pass through instead of fixed window then had to fiddle with window frame a bit as well as symbol origin and orientation. Plan attached with workings. With more effort could likely do a little better. (OR could do less too Roll top.zip

Could be doors, drawers, pullouts or dead. That is mantel hood (Stanici catalog has) overlays on the bottom are shallow carved corbels, and top is a carved only. Can find some in the Osborne catalog Chief has. Other options would be Art for Everyday but they may only offer 2D cad files. Might be some in the higher end cabinet catalogs but I didn't come across any. Always the 3D warehouse. Note these can have a lot of surfaced.

Does this mean that as long as I keep SSA active, new version upgrades will be available as a part of SSA? IOW I have X14 with SSA active would then get X15, then keep SSA active would bet X16, etc...? OR does that just mean upgrades to versions that were active as of Jan 10-X14 upgrades only, not X15 upgrades?

Please either fill out your signature or at least tell us what version of the software you are using (hopefully Chief Architect Premier or Interiors x14? A bit about your system is useful too. Then so we can help. Place your object in a new clean plan. Then Menu, File, Backup Entire Plan, Backup plan files only, send to zip. Might be worth seeing if that plan also lags to rule out any other issues. IF it is different let us know. Upload that and include information on the steps you took to build it. While not much else in here this plan has 3 Stanici curved hoods and doesn't lag in the least.

Used what I think Glenn did? (at least I went off his pics) 20 degree molding for sill (in plan), then adjusted the windows: frame, sash, insets, recess, and RO bottom. (Trial and error) Then made a style paletter. Cleared all attributes, selected those that apply (bit of trial and error here too) The SP works on any window- does not change dimensions, or window type, can use scoping for room, floor, plan, or single. I think to get a real window I might want a thicker wall for better sash dims. Window wells.zip Window sloped style paletter.calibz

OR Before closing polyline select curve, convert curve to polyline, select number of segments, repeat on second line...close pline and conver.

Opening the tab on the web library may give a clue-says you need to contact them if you're a dealer. When I did work for a Wood-Mode dealer was something like that (though I ended up not using much of what they had in the catalog) If there's something specific you need (door, molding, millwork...) before Monday PM or email me. I may have something. Just need good visual reference since names won't likely match what I have.

First - this forum is where you post your tips, not where you ask how to- That's what Q & A is for; you would have had more answers faster-so next time. Attached plan has a few ways to approach this. For just open no doors as you have I would use the following 1) Without a video this one is a bit difficult to learn but I rarely do vids and not today...Open the cabinet that is outside the building and look at ALL of the box construction, and front, sides configuration. Then use the saved camera there (look at setting for that too!) start with a cabinet; set box construction to framed, separation to 0, change left and right side to finished. Open camera view set to clip items somewhere between 6 and 9 inches, select the delete surface tool, delete that remnant of the center stile from the inside, then swing the camera around and delete it from the front. Convert to symbol, fixture interior, set stretch planes and zones. IF you convert to a symbol you have faster ways to adjust size than a block does. Save the plan for future use. IF you also save the plan then you can edit the object parts of it and make a new symbol (same as if it were a block) corner cabinets.zip

I should have thought of this before. Here is a stripped down version of the plan I used to make these. (in X13, the complete version was posted here sometime in the past, and a newer version more recently) Box Construction tab, change separation to suit. Then front/side/back tab_ equalize if both top and bottom to be the same, else adjust sizes to suit. Then convert to symbol- change materials so each is set to use default (rename rails and panels to suit) Set stretch planes ---Look at previous symbols for settings for stretch planes. DBL door plan.zip

attached DBL shaker 2-5.calibz

here's a 3" dble shaker 3 in.calibz

what width rail and stile do you need?

No, at least very limited and not really for what you are asking. Generally what is done as best practice. It's what I have always done and has advantages over any alternative. You know you can save a camera in plan A and copy it to Plan B, then Plan C.... There are some things you can do with referenced sets in plan and/or 3D views but not sure this is easier for what it sounds like you are after. Still something worth looking into as it can be a powerful and useful feature. For just interiors some folks make extra floors or extra rooms elsewhere with variations- only if structure doesn't matter. I have one client who often has a 10 to 20 rooms with cabinetry with 3-5 different cabinet defaults. I've taken to making plans based on cabinet defaults. Make structure, save, save as A, then B, then C....Plan A uses cab defaults 1 w/ cabinets in rooms 1, 4,6,9; Plan B has cabinet defaults 2 with cabinets in some other rooms...and so on. When changes to defaults change this allows all the cabinets in that plan to change. When cabinets in a room change those cabinets are cut and pasted into the appropriate plan. Please fill in your signature- there are posts often about what ( program version and computer info), why (it helps) and how to do that.

Currently run a Noctua D15, a good PSU, in a Define 7 Compact w/4 case fans. No heat issues, never throttles, temps rarely break 50 and max briefly hits 70. Temps would likely be a tad higher if OC but haven't seen the need.