MarkMc

does this do what you want? Has "Both Wall Sides Checked" Automatic dims are slightly different The only way to avoid getting dims on interior walls when dragging manual is using a separate layer and turning it off. Openings depends on what you want.

While I agree there are places that the modeling tools could use improvement I don't think that is the problem with this instance. It's a question of what can be done in reality. Chief will not miter this with a 3D modling line when coming in at an angle because it can't be done IRL.

This is a variation on Bill's which uses the same method I posted earlier in the services section. The problem with the wood photo and Bills method arises when you connect the run of gutter on the long horizontal which neither shows. So instead of making the eave assembly with the gutter profile as is I tilted it by the pitch. Then after converting to a symbol the entire symbol is tilted to the pitch. This will connect to any horizontal gutters correctly with the only modification to the molding taking place at the eave. It's still a bit of a bear to do in the field to determine your saw setting though. This is one reason that any detail you dig up on these will have extra flat molding sections to ensure it is sealed off properly. As I noted yesterday I'd favor doing as the photo of the actual on a house above which has no gutter on the face of the eave where the slope would be silly deep for water anyway. The only other alternative is with a short flat as Glenn and I think someone else posted yesterday, at least if you are looking for something that can actually be done IRL. molding for cornice tilted.plan

You're not, I just left out that part. Most often I just use a shelf to make the bottom. I do have a lot of parts I insert into the back of the cabinet and have bottoms (stiles, toe kicks, ....) Just saw this Larry, musta been asleep. You can use the same chamfer for different heights if you don't need to change where it starts in relation to the top and bottom by setting a stretch zone that falls above the bottom and below the top of the curves of the chamfer. You can change where the chamfer starts by setting a stretch plane above or below (or both as pictured). For variations in the start and end then you need new symbols but those can be quickly done with generations-set stretch plane, alter height, convert to symbol-redo...These both started with the symbol in the middle at 30" high and were resized to 36" each with different stretch definitions. For different with or depth of chamfer you need a new symbol

It's exactly what I'd be doing IRL. Those will only mitre correctly on the same plane. If the horizontal is on a normal plane and the angle is on another plane the heights will never match at the corner-just simple geometry. So the idea is to make the joint on a plane and rotate the entire assembly. Place molding profile for the gutter; rotate by the pitch in degrees so that when that section is done it will align again with the straight horizontal gutter. Add to library. Made an "L" with that profile. Convert to a symbol, while converting rotate the symbol to the pitch. Horizontal gutter is standard profile-it will not miter to the symbol but can be cheated for 3D-cleaned up in CAD if need be. Miter at the peak also has issues and sometimes can be cheated for 3D. To get things to mitre and/or to join at the peak use the same technique but with psolids. Convert the molding profiles to solid of whatever depth. Use plain flat blocks set at angle to mitre the ends with psolid subtraction . With a little luck you can nudge them together and not have to join the solids-will help if you have to do several. Save the parts in a plan for further generations. I see that his rakes don't join to a horizontal, have you tried that?

The two images are not done the same IRL the first one has no gutter on the protico so easier to do, the second one does but doesn't show the return. IRL or on the computer for the second one (wood picture) the mitre is done on the ground, the assembly is then tilted to the pitch. It gets coped to the regular gutter on the roof return and fussed with at the peak. Attached plan has an idea-used the easier profile from (and didn't mess with other details for it)wood gutter 2.plan http://jpmoriarty.com/wood_molding_catalog/002_gutter/wood-gutters-t&h.pdf A full gutter profile can be done as well but would be harder to actually build. Plan attached is down and dirty. Adjusting the symbol to something useful so the block lines up and such would still be needed. The angle for a 3D view has to be done per roof pitch. In the long run if this had to be redone for different pitches then doing Chops idea of boolean operations with solids would be the way to go. detail has png of 2 details from the supplier in question. wood gutter 2.plan

The Gimp will do it.Been a while so I don't remember but should be help for it there.

If you have premier and not interiors there are ways to expedite that with detail from view and an annotation set. Video might be a great idea but would need to be several totalling an hour. I'

To change schedule numbers drag up and down in Schedule or use icon on edit toolbar at bottom To change label delete what's there and put what you want or click automatic label. If you are reconfiguring cabinet faces it's likely better to start with a different cabinet, simpler. If what you're asking is something else post more complete info in the Q & A section in a new thread.

Been using zoom.us for about 5 yrs. Found it cheaper, easier, and I like the interface and annotation tools. At first when there were stretches of less need I'd switch to the free account (1 person meetings, 45 minute limit) then just reactivate my account as needed. Nowadays I just leave it, cheap enough. My wife belongs to a support group that uses it so not a lot of tech savvy needed.

The beads are door symbols that started out as 3D molding lines though they could more easily be started as molding lines and rotated when converting to a symbol. The chamfers are also door symbols but those where made using solids, polyline solids and boolean operations (subtraction, union mostly). Those symbols are always used as "side panel inset" in varying configurations. The symbols are included so you can not only use them but "OPEN SYMBOL" and examine all of the settings to get an understanding of what they are doing for the symbols placement and sizing. Overall a worthwhile learning exercise IMO. There is also a set of beaded cabinets elsewhere on the forum. I use two types- one for brands where you order the cabinet at it's final width and specify the opening sizes; the other for the more common situation where you order individual cabinets ad line items and ask that they be combined and call out the final overall width. In the case of the latter the ones I made are meant to overalp one another and still look correct. I don't remember if I included both. You only need the second type if you are using a schedule to create a cabinet order. In both cases they are a bit problematic to dimension if you need to use cad detail from view to make drawings for submission since there are so many extra lines involved. Beaded inset cabinets There should be enough in the libraries supplied that you can do whatever you need to with what is there. You will need to open the cabinet DBX to get an understanding of what is used where. Overall the cabinets can be configured using split-either horizontal or vertical -on a regular door or drawer item. They will also accept change to the default door/drawer without affecting the beading. In short everything you need to work with these is supplied along with some useful things to learn from, albeit the hard way. I've been a little surprised over the years how little interest they have gotten. Recently someone suggested Chief include a way to just click and make this happen. I don't think they realize how complicated that could be (and how little interest has been in these despite the fact that even doing what I've done is not possible in competing kitchen software last I knew) I suppose if CA ever asked I'd do a video but other than that I simply dislike videos and think in the long run you learn more working for it. Good luck with it. If AFTER you have tried to work with them for a while and have SPECIFIC questions or problems post over in the QA section and we'll help you out.

Be sure automatic fillers are turned off. If on it will appear as if the cabinet is against him wall. But 2" isn't enough room to paint.

Here's two very slight difference in the pillow. Plan to use making one with molding profiles. If making a new symbol need to rotate it to vertical while converting and make sure you use stretch planes. I went through that with a client not long ago Even though I knew what she meant sort of, it was supposed to be a specific door from a specific mfg-so why not send me a picture, cad, the name, something-I'm thinking come on your a pro right-act like one. (had a run of this kind of be Karnac nonsense so just ranting) Lightholder Pillow door.plan Added after thinking a minute- you may be awarre but just in case be careful designing with the deeper pillow doors. It's possible to end up in a situation where they run when opening (that's one I learned when a co-worker was learning it the hard way)

Material type is "air gap" as you suggested in first post. Try it on any symbol besides the roof

When I saw P's post last night ran downstairs to check it out. It only works in this application, alas the other objects I tested are the same as always.

The door symbols that are placed loose in the plan are not meant to be floated on the cabinet. They are used as part of the cabinet. IT is set so that the height will not change. It is also set so that the top of the door extends up to what would be the normal height of a door on that cabinet when placed in the lowest face item. That is done by moving the Z origin AND setting the Z stretch plane outside the bounding box. IT WILL however resize in width along with the cabinet so there is no need to float it. To see what settings are used select the door symbols I placed in the plan, right click and select OPEN SYMBOL do not select Open Object. Study the origin and the stretch planes. . Also open the cabinet DBX to see how the face items are configured to understand how to get around the problem you're running into. If you need to do the same thing on a different height cabinet you need a new symbol so it is useful to understand the settings and how to create the symbol. Understanding symbol manipulation can be very useful with cabinets I would suggest- 1)-download the PDF of the current reference manual. Go to section Symbol Specification Dialog pg 963, then to Editing Custom Symbols pgs 976-980. I use the bookmarks/index to get around instead of all the bookmarks listed. 2) Print out the section Editing Custom Symols-in particular the section on stretch planes. I kept copies of these pages handy for a very long time while learning how to deal with these things. 3) Once you have a handle on some of this head over to the Symbols and the Tips sections of the forum and rummage around for symbols and ideas that have been posted in the past. Download a couple and investigate what is going on with them.

Tip- what I do. A, print out the list of new features, keep handy. Check off, make notes as you get to them. B- download current reference manual, go to bookmark for what's new, a few pages in after migration information (useful) starts the list of features (I add a bookmark to that). For every new feature there is a hyperlink to that section of the manual to get more detail. Very useful

Since X11 you no longer need to edit the pattern and texture offset separately. In the pattern tab just check off the sync option. IF you have already messed with the sync on one it's best to replace the texture from the library. I've had trouble when I forgot to start fresh with sync checked. BUT I've also had issue with some textures that had different setting to begin with. You want to start with both pattern and texture at 0, 0 AND both the same size (24, 24 or whatever) It might be possible to reset both to the original but again I"ve had trouble so just replace and check. I always toggle between standard and vector view to check before I start messing with the offsets (a lot of ID clients who want tile renders AND layouts).

I placed the lights before drawing the ceiling grid. I altered the CAD block of the lights to have a fill. You only need to get a couple correct for control once you work out the location. For this one renders were important so after placing the lights I offset the ceiling material until it matched the lights. Note if you need that you need a new mateial per room with correct offset. Once your control lights are in make a room polyline, fill style grid 24 x 24, offset until it matches the lights (note my 24 x 48 are off). The fill for the CAD block was for the 24 x 48 lights to cover the grid. Then add any other lights. I don't bother with the edge molding unless needed for hi def rendering (in a smaller space...even then, seriously?) add it to the room DBX. or worst case a room molding pline. If you have to dimension to more than the lights a cad line or point here an there should do it, or a cad detail from view copied back in place hold position, lock layer.

Early for me too, I didn't realize a symbol mod was needed till I saw your post

Greg-why use psolid when shelves are automatic? Better to learn to deal with a few door symbols (especially for a KD). Attached plan has door symbols forced to remain specific size-everything else is just in the cabinet DBX. The other cabinet can just be done in the cabinet DBX as is. IF those notched shelves are wanted then draw one as a psolid and convert to a symbol. Save them all to library so can be used in the future. (KDs tend to do a lot use certain items repeatedly ) Tall broom.plan

Welcome aboard. What you're asking is very basic, I suggest using some of the training and help resources first to get started.here are a lot of options-videos, help file, reference manual. You could : go to the Getting Started Resources section here on the forum place a cabinet into a plan, double click to open it, press the F1 key or click "Help" Just click Help and pick one of the resources listed, then look up cabinets download the PDF of the reference manual A short investment in time at the beginning pays big dividends in the long run. I found it worthwhile to have new people who worked for me take a short on line class from Chief, even take them myself still on occasion. Your experience with the software will be better if you have a good foundation in the basics. When you get stuck after trying something come here. Search to see what is already posted, be sure to also look in tips and symbols sections as well as the Q & A). Post a specific question and tell us what you tried (post an image of what you did, and or a plan) and what's not working. Be sure to read: How to get good answers when you ask questions Folks will also ask you to complete your signature and include computer information and version you are using.

Do you have grid turned on in your PDF viewer? "Colors Panel” on page 112. Reference Grid The Reference Grid is an on-screen grid composed of regular squares that can be used to convey a sense of scale while drawing. It does not print.. " reference manual.