MarkMc

1-used "framed" and set your separation and reveal, It's a lot more flexible. There will still be a ghost line on the side of the cabinet as if the side separation was 19mm, PIA but nothing to be done about that. All other separations will be correct. 2-Not as easy-has to be done placing a CAD detail into the elvevation. For shelves use a layerset that shows only what you need just cabinets and shelves, doors and all else hidden, have the cabinet layers show as dotted lines (OR convert the shelves to dotted lines later.) Take a CAD detail from view. Select that, copy, go to elevation "paste and hold postion" NOte thaqt the CAD detail is not live so if you make changes you have to do it all over. Good idea to have the CAD detail on a dedicated layer. 3- The heights will be equal to Opening plus overlays. I never remember exactly how Chief determines the overlay for drawers so when I have to set this up I take an elevation and place dotted red cad lines at the heights I want the face items to fall. Then take my best guess assuming that overlay is always split equally, (separation minus reveal at top, half that elsewhere). then adjust the face until things line up. Once set make it the default and write is somewhere (I save a screen shot of the DBX as a stickie) for reference so changes can be made with simple addition/subtraction. Then if you're younger and smarter than me you can remember what/how CA decides overlay and let me know. Then we'll hope I remember :)))

Yes. Don't check 'group similar ". Will be easiest if first floor windows are placed first, program numbers by the order placed BUT you can always drag up and down in the Schedule to renumber or use the icon to do it.

Dimensions will snap to ends....AND center of object IF you have centers checked in locate object (I never do for cabinet) They will not snap to any face part. The only way for that is with a CAD detail. I just note in an OIP field face sizes if needed.

Makes sure a face is defined in CAD AND a different material is assigned to it. Chief understands faces and materials for symbols, not layers. Often 3D dwg files are missing faces. If they are not defined as a face then no material will be assigned to it. Whenever possible life is easier importing almost any format other than dwg for symbols.

Something your saying doesn't match up. A symbol in Chief always imports to only one layer, determined by the type of symbol you call it. It can have multiple materials. 2D CAD can come into multiple layers if it has them, you are given the opportunity to map them. None of that has changed in X11. I don't understand how you have 4 layers unless it's not a symbol?

Yes. Convert to electric symbol, options light.

I'll get you something when back at machine which may be in the morning (packing,downsizing,moving,chaos) should be video and samples on here from a couple of years ago though.

I don't use the ML for cabinet orders, I use schedules. To begin with I don't have moldings on cabinets. I prefer molding lines so I can control the side overhang (kept in a warehouse plan). Those have a macro for the label that determines the total to be ordered after accounting for cuts. The one I use the most just reads out a total length and I add up those and divide. When suitable I have another that does the division by sections and spits out number of sticks. BUT neither of those don't go into the schedule... SO. I have lengths in my library for assorted moldings with correct dimensions and labels. They are set to sink into floor, on dedicated layer, no fill, no line. Drag one from library, cop and paste in place until quantity is correct. Advantages-numbered callouts on order/installers plan; easy to rearrange numbers, EZ to change molding type with Replace from,copy paste schedule into order form spreadsheet template.

As in, took a look at what I did earlier (just before nap :) and didn't like protrusion. Changed origin, dragged onto window. Better, fast

Guess since often when I've had to do odd windows that wouldn't work so I just default to treatment millwork above. I find it a bit easier to control since all I ever have to do is change origin and width, drag new symbol in place to see. I suppose in this case you could make a lintel work. A quickie using the molding I used for the symbol needs help though.

Yes psolid into shutter. Molding with psolid to symbol for Millwork above casing. Symbols on floor for reference to see origins and stretch planes. Parts used to make em also included. Did not try a macro to size width of millwork but doubt that can be done

Symbol for shutters, casing set to 1/8 wide, millwork above casing symbol with Z offset equal to minus casing width. Will place with window and you only need to resize the width of millwork above casing. In this case I have it at window width plus 12" (manually though). Adam window.plan

I wouldn't go there. Whoever is supplying the counter is not going to want to add up dimensions of parts to get a total run. Better off supplying them with a counter drawing by making a complete custom counter top, use an annoset with layerset that shows only counters and dimension default that puts dimensions on a dedicated layer. I keep a couple of cabinets labelled as DW and Do not include in schedule, in my user library.

No way to say for sure without a plan file instead of a PDF (in future plan files are better and image file like jpg are preferred to pdf WITH some information shown on it) But guessing you mean lines as on lot 50? Likely the boxes overlap each other. Might turn grid snaps off and have object snaps on.

As solver said. A bonus is they don't shift the color in PBR the way backdrops do so sometimes I use them when not from same site.

I somehow use photos from the actual site set as billboards outside windows and doors. Bit more work and take extra photos to be able to adjust more easily. Also use the same technique on remodel if an adjacent room is nicely done, putting billboard in doorway with photo of that room.

The old fashioned way is auxiliary views-using 90 degree projection lines from a single edge. These were done using detail from view, pasting extra views in, drawing projection lines after change the plan angle defaults to match the roof pitch in degrees. Planes skewed in two directions can also be done just take more work. I went and made a polyline to match, pasted back into plan, converted to p solid, then to symbol, rotated symbol-just to check against the model. Auxil view.plan

I disagree. Use what Eric and Steve suggest. Dimensions to those things that snaps work for normally and use detail from view, paste and hold position for things you can't snap to. Use a noticeable color for the detail and turn it off when need be, turn it back on to check before final. It can be redone in minutes if need be as long as you have good annosets/layer set/ dimension defaults. Been using that for years now without issue. IF and when I feel the need to use points they are always intended to be temporary so I use those since they are more noticeable and easier to delete. There are times in elevation when you can't get a snap to something that should accept one. Best options are move it's view group forward, temporarily move toward the camera, temporarily -copy and delete object blocking it, pull dime, paste and hold position to put the object back. Day to day dimensions in kitchens I have a group of annosets. Some for plan views some for elevation (wall, base, counter, fixture centers, room). A few weeks ago showed a newer client who was using points how to use them. He said it saves him hours.

I always include a separate countertop only drawing which can be used for quotes. I also always show aisle, counter to counter, dimensions since that is what NKBA guidelines us. Far too many drawings come across my desk that have aisles dimensioned cabinet to cabinet and don't take overhangs into account (and often wouldn't meet guidelines with zero overhangs.). I also supply box to box dimensions either noted or in a separate plan view specific for installers.

Industry standard is cabinets are dimensioned to the box NOT to the door. If I ordered 25" deep cabinets from anyone I've ever dealt with they would either give me a 25" deep box or on a good day call me to check. I have never dimensioned to door fronts and not once had a problem with that. I do go to great lengths to be clear though... provide general notes to the installer and maker. Note it there. Even if it is a standard depth for the maker, for instance most often I have 13 to 14" deep wall cabinets. While these are standard for my makers they may also make some standard 12" deep wall cabinets so the wall cabinet depth is always noted. I don't want the wrong person processing my order sending me inset cabinets that are 12" deep. I want the installer to be aware they are not dealing with 12" deep cabinets One thing I have found is the best way to avoid mistakes is to-draw and dimension it AND to note it. (and tell installer verbally)-Redundancy prevents issues. IF for some reason the makers don't follow industry standard I would simply talk to them and ask what works for them, then do it. IF you really must dimension to the faces I would just set a CAD line and snap to that. (I never ever use point to point dimensions and don't allow my clients to either, just too risky IMO. There is also generally somewhere on order forms to call out global items that you are doing that may not be typical-use it or make a place. Then note on the plan something like "This view dimensioned to cabinet box and sheet rock" or whatever they understand (again ask them). For the electrician I supply an electrical plan with what has been decided with the client. I also always tell them specifically (in person) how far from the wall I want the lights placed. Too often they want to put them too close to the wall cabinets, run into the crown or cause glare on the faces-OR they put them too far back creating a shadow when someone wants to work at the counter. Supply an electrical plan realizing that the side to side placement of recessed cans may need to be compromised to avoid joists (a good time to use "Ctr" or "Eq"; better yet get a stud finder and locate the joists :) I like to have recess lights placed to fall directly over someones head when they are working at the counter (26- 30") to 32" from the wall (depending on joist location if parallel) to avoid shadows. Also for the electrician-whenever possible I go over preferred switching locations with clients so they don't have to. Then discuss with the electrician-this avoids problems and usually saves the electrician time, makes them happy, and avoids reworks... so long as when they say "switch can't go here" or "that's a lot of extra work to run" you listen and take it back to the client.

That's what I thought, choices are as noted, make two piece hinge symbol or two door symbols.

Guessing (it helps when you post a plan or part of one) that you made the hinges as part of the door symbol, correct? Two options. 1- make the hinge in two parts- cup on the door and the rest inside the cabinet as the hinge. Might take a little fiddling to get the depth to line up, height should be easy. (until you run into a three hinge cabinet that you want to have two. Other option is using layersets one for door closed another for door open; different doors on different layersets. Have done that with complicated cabinets. That's easiest if you set the open door symbol so that it's open WITHOUT having the DBX open it. You want to only change sets.

Attached zip with my current hotkeys. They are always evolving so I keep a spreadsheet with the current list (also included). I have a Windows keyboard shortcut to that sheet for the times I forget. I haven't updated the second two sheets in a while so don't count on them, left them for reference, the first sheet should be accurate. I used the other two sheets when I first set the keys up to help and printed the color one out for reference. I'm right handed and try to set the most common keys to be one handed with left hand and to keep things in some grouping I could remember. I now use two keyboards, one in front one on left, which has allowed me to begin to add some other one handed combos that I avoided (work in progress). You can either use this for reference or give it a try but everyone's brain works differently. I think there are few sets of hotkeys in either tips or symbols section. I'd suggest that before setting up new keys you export the default OOB keys. Then every now and then export your own keys just in case you need them on a another machine of for migration or disasters. Mk_hotkey.zip

You can use up to 3 keys per. If using multiple keys don't use a single key that is also used in multiple combination. I use a two key form, the only singles I use are numbers.

Center and Reflect about also work that way-definitely hotkeys are the way to go.