DzinEye

A few things... Your terrain is not to scale. Your terrain only measures a little over 7' across! When you properly scale it, make sure the scale between contours is also properly scaled. Generally your Terrain Perimeter should not be on the property lines, but some distance past the property lines. The contour lines need to all go past the edge of the terrain if/when you do that. Add a north arrow pointer to your site plan so you can rotate it to be oriented to match your floor plan and keep the proper headings for the property lines. Then rotate the site to match the floor plan. You have the building outline on the terrain/site plan, so you should be able to move the building into position using that.

Here's one way to make it go away... If you set the exterior masonry walls of the lower floor to have 'No Room Definition' then the ceiling drywall (which is what's showing through) will stop at the interior furred wall... which is how it should be. I even tried moving those furred walls inward to create a space between walls, unchecking 'furred walls', then setting the interstitial space between the walls to be a room and unchecking 'flat ceiling'. Seems like that should've done it too... but no.

I said that in my original response... without so many words... "if you move display of those lines behind the wall lines"

Exterior Roof Attachments

Here you go... Solar Tube Lens.calibz

By the way... those pink lines aren't unique to the Tray Ceiling tool.... the layer is called Ceiling Planes... and any other manually drawn ceiling planes would automatically go on that layer as well. It's showing the whole perimeter of the polyline 'plane'... just like a roof plane would, except in the case of the tray ceiling it's showing the hole in the plane as well as the perimeter of the plane.

Kevin, could you import those along with another piece of geometry from the room that you could use to more accurately place it? Perhaps a diagonal line drawn to one of the corners of the room?

Here's what's in the library Solar Tube.calibz

Solar tube pops up in my library... has for a long time...

That outer line shouldn't show up when you print if you move display of those lines behind the wall lines... but if you just can't stand it anyway I wouldn't give up the tray tool... just trace the inner recessed shape with another layer named 'Ceiling recess' or something like that and turn off the ceiling plane lines.

Thx Perry. Glad to know it. That's why I noted I could be wrong! ... I've only been on the forum a couple of years...but in that time I don't think I've ever seen him post a video. I've seen he's very generous with his time in explaining things though.

I could be wrong, but I don't think I've ever seen Glenn post a video! But I'm sure he'd be happy to explain further. FWIW...assuming you understand Saved Plan Views?.. if so, then you'll know that you can select the SPV you want to view and that will automatically turn on and off various layers to show exactly what you've set that SPV to show. In order to use SPV's the way Glenn is suggesting, which could be very cool, it will take some upfront creative thinking and work creating alternative layer names for walls, windows, doors, and filled areas (which offers another way to hide or expose areas that will be different between various plan options). Then the SPV you set up for each option will have these layers either on or off as needed to enable you to view the plan as desired.

Thx for posting that Robert! I've never yet had either of my regular T-24 consultants recommend the solution with insulation in both rafters and ceiling so that was news to me. In houses with cathedral ceilings I almost always urge homeowners to spring for spray foam insulation so the attic is conditioned and there's no issues with venting or HVAC equipment in non-conditioned space. Ever since I stopped doing my own T-24 calcs years ago when it required special software I stopped trying to keep up with the rules and leave it up to the consultants.

Joe, post the T-24 requirements document... something seems off. You shouldn't have to insulate both up at the rafters and down at the ceiling...that makes no sense. Be that as it may... there's a product called insulation baffles or attic baffles that you can specify https://www.google.com/search?q=insulation+baffles&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS804US804&oq=insulation+baffles&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.5230j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Here's a couple in an article about it, but your engineer (assuming you're using one?) will usually want to know what's happening with regards to this, as sheer transfer is often involved between the roof and the walls. Usually engineer will want the holes in the center of the block not toward the top as shown in the top detail here though... in which case you need to show a baffle to hold the insulation out of the way of the vent holes. Also you'll need to calculate the venting area provided by the vent holes in relation to the 1/150th or 1/300th required venting ... fun stuff. https://www.sbcmag.info/news/2015/may/ventilation-v-eaves-blocking-seismic-zones

https://www.cement.org/docs/default-source/stucco/eb049.pdf?sfvrsn=540de3bf_2 See page 29 ... but I can't locate the darned document it refers to. This all used to be prescribed in the UBC back in the day...

I think the OP want's dimension to inside of sash (exposed glazing area)

You just need to move the stucco to the outside layer on your thick wall... then line up the walls 1279498644_ELEVATIONNIGHTMARE1_X1.plan

Yep, I think that's the one...but it's Table 721.1 You might place a call to the jurisdictions Fire Dept. plan checker... I usually find them to be very helpful

Realized you're not talking about garage separation...

Could use SIP's and skip the 2x6's and get the insulation all in one.

Do you have the radio button for lights to be on in both Camera and Raytrace?

Definitely going from AD to Chief I was immediately confounded by the time-suck of having to select materials and colors before it would even be on my radar in AD. I just use colors and materials as I decide along with a healthy dose of client-expectation management to get past the materials/colors divide.

You could select Lower Wall Split by Butting Roof... select whatever wall type you want for the lower part.