DzinEye

As Joe said, I don't think it'll happen as a sloped wall type... but they could integrate 'roof types' into the program which would enable us to pre-define different roof types and quickly switch between them, making doing something like this faster and easier by having a roof all set up with the proper settings to be used as a sloped wall.

You don't need to 'draw' them... just add to your roof plane specification in the roof dbx.... look for Shadow Boards listed in the left side of the DBX

It might be an option for you to delete surfaces then save the foundation as a symbol

Just FYI, In addition to Michaels suggestion to use Line Drawing, you can also use Watercolor with Line Drawing

FYI...Just a few days ago I did the same exact thing and then later realized it maintained being joined to the original cabinet. So I then made a 'Suggestion' that we could move items that associate with cabinets like that to a different cabinet so we wouldn't have to re-find them in the library to attach to a new cabinet. Michael (Alaskan) quickly responded, alerting me to the 'Find in Library' tool, so I deleted the suggestion. If you're not familiar with it... if you select the cabinet the tool will be available and clicking it will enable you to select any number of items associated with the cabinet... check the sink (or whatever else) and it'll pop up in the library making it fast to drop one into a new cabinet. Dragging would be faster, but not a lot.

Are you sure you're changing the line that you're selecting? In other words... is it possible there's a line below the one that you're seeing on the screen which you're changing, and thus not seeing the change? Use tab select to see if you have two overlapping lines.

I have it installed on my old retired computer. Just booted it up... but sorry to say I no longer have the install file

Leroy Brown

I'm sure someone here is a master of the subject

I know I've requested it... and I think you said pretty much the same thing in response.

Yes, but not just the cross-hairs, but rather the whole orientation of X-Y axis (orthographic movement). This has been requested

You really got your undies in a bunch on this one don't ya?! Not sure anyone suggested there was nothing wrong with the inset... and I can't speak for anyone else but I suggested that with the right clearance above it, it might be considered acceptable by some inspectors. This a good example of why codes sometimes need interpretation and why people are employed to do such interpretation.

LOL... gee thanks a lot for suggesting that's my sense of logic! But actually you could do that... as long as you have another hand rail on the other side. I like that you can slide down the one on the right...

Whaaat... man you're really stretching there. Any projection above a handrail less than the required 80" would probably fail almost all normal stair rail stairs where the stairs start under the 2nd floor. Sorry...the builder took it up to the Chief Building Official and he over-rode your decision.

These kinds of stair rail things can be extraordinarily fickle, but if I were you I would just take the easy route in this example where you are only missing the cap and make a poly solid cap which would take all of 20 seconds.

Hmm... I dunno about that...I think the intent of the code was to have a specified amount of space between the back of the rail and surface it's mounted to so that a hand can easily grab the rail. If that 1-1/2" space is kept between the rail and surface behind it there might be room for argument here. Most likely code writers never envisioned a inset railing like this, but I think any individual building inspector would have a different take on it depending in this case on the space above the rail. For instance if there was 12" of clearance above the rail in the inset... it would seem to me to be as functional as any other handrail.

It's the glass cover with little hammer that says 'Break Glass in case of Emergency'

Looks like you need to fill up the pool! ???

I'll only say a few things because I'm not a PBR pro by any means but I'll offer what I know. I think Graham is the PBR wizard, so perhaps he'll chime in, but you could also search under his name and pbr posts and you'll glean a lot of good info. Backgrounds definitely do affect the light... at least on interior views they do. I'll usually but not always have the sun dialed way down to around 1K lux then adjust brightness and/or exposure to get lighting adjusted just so. Also though I have often found that I need to turn light set brightness way way down in certain situations.

Oh Jeez...Nice catch! So that's what I was seeing... I thought I was seeing the drywall wrapping upward, but it was actually showing a 5-1/2" thickness of drywall. Considering that's the case I'm surprised I was able to get it to work at all.

Well...I can fix it two different ways, but one of the Chief brainiacs here would have to explain what's going on to cause it. It may be partly to do with the fact that the section of wall you have the door opening in has 'no locate' checked. But simply unchecking it doesn't fix it. I think it has something to do with the way attic walls are working...but I really can't say for sure. I assume you have that wall separated into two pieces because part is existing? In any regard...the easiest method that worked for me was to not use a door opening there, but instead make that section of wall a room divider. For some reason the attic wall pulls back a bit from the outside wall when doing this but that can be easily remedied. The other fix is to redraw those walls. You need the short segment that forms that little corner in the adjacent room with beam ceiling to be it's own wall. In order to keep the new wall that the door opening goes in from rejoining that wall you need to reverse the orientation of that short segment or create another wall definition for it, but simply reversing it works to keep it from re-joining. Draw the new wall and add in the door opening. You may notice that the attic wall in the vaulted ceiling room acts up and will show misaligned (recessed), but force it auto-rebuild (To do this I change the room to flat ceiling then back to vaulted) and you should be good to go. You can then re-break the wall at the location you have dimensioned.

With bacon and onions?? You got an early upvote from me! I think the problem with your post getting due attention was you posed it more as a question than an answer.

There are a bunch of ways to get where you want to be. One way: In the ROOM dbx set your ceiling height for the 82.5" ceiling. In your ROOF dbx check the box for 'Ignore second floor'... then set the desired height using either the top plate or baseline setting.... OR you can move the roof in the Z direction using Transform/Replicate

You could probably use a frieze molding, otherwise yes.

You could make either of those two joined porches a garage and it works.