robdyck

At the driveway, you have 2 elevation regions / lines either overlapping or touching. I'd suggest pulling back the elevation line for the asphalt driveway away from the region of the concrete. Conflicting elevation data is kinda like having Jell-O touching your potatoes and gravy!

I'd also suggest removing and cropping almost all terrain lines beyond the terrain perimeter.

In this area, you have overlapping conflicting terrain elevation data; an elevation line and an elevation region. Delete the elevation line, and alter the region so it does not intersect the retaining wall. This statement is not referring to the elevation lines which also need to be cut back from the ret. wall.

Keep in mind that there are times when a Retaining Wall is a bit annoying in the way it connects to other walls and the way it affects the terrain elevation. When, and only when this is a nuisance, I switch to a terrain break and then I will model the retaining wall using slabs, solids, molding or whatever is the most suitable, like a concrete lock block from Chief's Library. A terrain retaining wall transitions the elevation data within the width of the wall. A terrain break can be set to transition much wider (120" is default) or much narrower so you can 'bury' this transition within other objects. Regardless of which tool you use, the terrain elevation data should not cross over or extend into this transitional boundary. As a general rule of thumb, I like to keep elevation data (points or lines) 1" away from my retaining wall or from the terrain break transition boundary.

You can drawn a L shape, then disconnect the new line in order to extend it in the opposite direction. A T will not work. Bad Example: T drawn by drawing the molding L line back on itself and extending beyond the perpendicular segment: Instead:

You can draw invisible walls in the garage that align with the 2nd floor exterior walls. This will allow you to have varying ceiling heights in the garage. The portion of the garage under the 2nd floor will maintain the default ceiling height (ceiling elevation equals underside of floor joists) while the portion of the garage with a roof over it can have it's ceiling height lowered.

For this purpose, you could use a different strategy. In your roof plan, turn on the layer for Opening Header Lines and turn off the layer for Doors. Adjust the layer color and line style to suit your needs. 20250125-1604-40.1543108.mp4

You will probably need to draw in a custom ceiling plane. Start at the the inside of the exterior wall and draw up towards the ridge line. Once you've adjusted the length front-to-back, copy / reflect the ceiling plane about the ridge line.

You could make a series of insulation cad blocks adjusted for various roof slopes. Then add them to your library for future use. I've done this but mine all indicate blow-in insulation. And if you set the insertion point, it's single click placement from the library. 20250124-1636-28.0839244.mp4

The simplest fix here is to post your plan so we can see your camera settings. Or, you can post screenshots of your camera settings, rendering technique settings and lighting settings. Then someone can offer suggestions.

Where you have a ceiling beam, try replacing that using a soffit (delete the default moldings). A soffit should automatically add the room moldings, however where you have separate moldings per room, you will need to do some manual work, probably by creating a room molding polyline and adjusting the polyline. Because the soffit is directly over a wall, the room moldings don't seem to apply properly.

I concur with Brett. I just get my tools out and put the casing on myself. I just had to something similar because of the bottom of a raked window can't be a zero height...so Chief cases the window with a small vertical piece. I needed a proper miter...

Hey Larry! The door interior trim is following the defaults for a Doorway! Edit the doorway defaults (no lintel, clam casing), then open and close the door dialog and it rebuilds correctly. I think I would send this in to Tech Support. The door casing, door lintel, and window frame all seem like bugs to me.

Door Casing: Screen Recording 2025-01-16 153034.mp4

Window Frame should be automatic...or so I thought. But I believe you'll need to manually adjust the frame spec.

Your furred wall is backwards! Move the drywall to the interior of the framing in the Wall Type Definitions. Then reverse the layers and adjust its position.

Door Panel:

Another tip: Even if you create a cad detail from view (I never do this) it can be helpful to add cad polylines in an elevation or section view with the line length displayed. I place these polylines on a reference layer which I turn off for final views. I prefer doing this because this keeps those polylines in the actual view and I can snap windows to these polylines. And, the dimensions of these windows are always subject to changes throughout the design process, so 'cad detail from view' is not very helpful to me. This allows me to quickly and accurately 'mock up' the shapes and then specify the windows...saving me time away from the window specification dialog.

Center Window: Use a double arch and then set the radius to 10000" (this is the max.). Then it's easy to adjust the height as needed.

https://www.sketchup.com/en/plans-and-pricing/sketchup-free

Its also worth mentioned that a molding or polyline distribution will almost certainly not create perfect spacing of the corbels in the dentil molding. With a polyline distribution path, you can use separate lines on each side of a gable and adjust the starting offset.

You could use a molding assigned to the frieze for the roof planes. If I were doing that, I'd probably assign 2 separate moldings as a frieze: one for the crown and one for the dentil molding. You may be able find a dentil molding that is close enough, although you might just want to make your own. Take a look at the dentil moldings in the library, and that should give you some visual cues. You can convert a 3d object or symbol into a molding.

If your posts are part of a railing wall: To do this, you will need to use a thicker wall to define your porch. The wall thickness should be the same thickness as the piers. This way, the posts will remain centered on this new thicker wall but the slab will extend to the outer edge of this wall. If the posts & piers were place manually or are separate objects: move the wall that defines the porch to align with the outer edge of the pier.

For this model, there currently is no need to increase the 2nd floor ceiling height. And, if there is no flat ceiling, then you need to set the interior walls to balloon through. Without that, the top will stop at the ceiling elevation and an attic wall will generate. Hopefully that makes sense.