robdyck

A polyline distribution path is the easiest. Use a library symbol for the corbel and have it's elevation set 'From Roof'. A little trial and error should get it positioned correctly and you can split the path for different height settings where sloped versus where level. Obviously you may need to create a library symbol if you can't find a suitable one.

Hi Garrett, make sure those walls are NOT set to balloon frame. The Ceiling Platform should be set to 'Automatic'. And make sure that Retain Wall Framing is unchecked.

One important factor to modelling multiple buildings is to be VERY stingy with your surface count. If you do that and then import your building models, there's a good chance you won't have too many issues. This means adjusting ALL default settings prior to modelling the building to avoid unnecessary surfaces, like drywall, flooring, house wrap, sheathing, interior trim, etc.

Curious...can you get a clean area table when there are some rooms that Chief doesn't calculate correctly? For example, if I have a porch type of room beside an attached garage, Chief will split the calculated area centering on the adjoining wall. This doesn't work for me. Also, there can be some hassle in reporting when a garage is split into separate rooms. I have the garage split for modelling purposes but for floor area purposes, its really just one room. The polyline system is easy enough, plus it keeps me in control.

area summary.mp4

You'd use a custom category and you'd add the term '1st floor' in the label box, or in another OIP field.

Hi Bob, it wasn't me, but obviously the reason somebody didn't like your response is because you demonstrated that you knew how to achieve the end result but you didn't describe HOW. The original question was clearly about how to accomplish it and required a description, which Gene provided. @RingosWhen using the 'Standard' rendering technique in elevation / section view, you can also turn on the 'Hand Drawn Lines on Top' and experiment with those settings to tweak the display to your liking.

If that's a stone watertable / sill, you can modify a library material so that you get the appearance of joints every 24" as well as vertical pattern lines. Assign this material to the molding that's in your library and that will save some steps down the road. A good material to start with is shown below. In the past, I've used some of the maps from the tiled version and added them to the Slate(mocha) texture. Resize to 144"x144", adjust the pattern and color blend...

Hi Angela, another option is to use the same molding as a sill for those windows. No apron, no extension, no wrap.

No, but I can convert it into a 3d symbol that can be imported in X15 and converted to a cabinet door. Here's the X15 library object.archdoor.calibz

This isn't my post, but I just did that and compared a scene using a 'face' versus and added light. The emissive properties of the face did create much better scene lighting, even if the added light did not cast shadows and have the same lumens as the 'face' material. My 'face' was 24"x24", top at 88" above the floor (the room had a high ceiling), and I used the material 'Lighting - White' with no adjustments.

You can blend the color. In many regions, brown and green treated lumber are available.

This really only takes a couple of minutes to make. Start with an interior door, scale the size, adjust the arch, convert to fixture, add the 3d solid, convert to cabinet door. You can make it take longer if you want the 45degree woodgrain on the curved piece. If you like it quick, then here's a library symbol. CUSTOM ARCH CABINET DOOR.calibz

Your results may be dependent on the tools you've used. Chief models the driveways / sidewalk / curbs to meet, but they aren't creating actual terrain elevation data so the grass region does not conform. Manual terrain input can override this. Another easy way to avoid that is to use a rolled gutter / curb / sidewalk, if that's regionally appropriate. Personally, I find that Chief's curb / driveway tools don't provide me with the control and realism that I prefer.

You could probably take a 3d text symbol, convert it to a millwork symbol, and then apply it as a window / door lintel. Then, with some additional layer display steps, you create a new curved text symbol for simpler placement. Still, it's quite a bit of work.

Thanks for the offer! I can tell you that I would not use it simply because you and I have different needs for these types of components. My guess is that your work with your employer gives you the need to re-use some of these. In my work of custom homes, every time I need timber components they really are unique to the project and I have to be careful not to re-use them!

Interesting! Could you post a screen capture video of that in progress? The windows snipping tool does video record that you can easily copy then paste into the forum post.

The editing of a symbol like a gable end truss is limited to what you can accomplish by using stretch planes and deleting surfaces to create new symbols. I actually wouldn't recommend using a symbol at all for a deco. truss. Just use the arch. block. Very easy to explode and adjust as the design evolves, or replace from the library when the roof pitch / scale changes. Obviously, this means saving new versions of the arch. block. If you use a lot of timber components, which I know you do, I'd suggest having a Chief Plan file just to store all these arch. blocks, posts, beams, etc. in addition to adding frequently used items to your library. Keep in mind that you can make more elaborate deco. trusses using...wait for it...a truss! A 3d solid would be my last resort for modelling these. Lots of different ways, all with pros and cons. The best method is somewhat dependent on EXACTLY how you will be using it. Is it for elevation views, renders, materials lists, construction component detail drawings, schedules...?

Did you do this? The ability to edit a symbol is quite limited and it's usually easier to explode the arch. block, edit the components and create a new symbol.

https://www.lenovo.com/ca/en/p/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-5-series/legion-pro-5i-gen-9-16-inch-intel/83df00anus

This is easier with floor trusses than with I-joists, but either one could be possible depending on the load and span. If you already have 16" for the floor system, then check to see if 11 7/8" or 12" is suitable for the span / load of the floor above.

Boxed eaves, which sounds much nicer than 'pork chops', are built to eliminate the costs associated with roof returns, allowing homeowners to occasionally visit a steak house and not have the embarrassment of publicly ordering a pork chop!

Very good point. Using a molding polyline is also what I would have done to match the existing condition.