robdyck

a) the ceiling joists will clip if they are shortened to match the stop point of the top of the rafters for the 36:12 roof.

c) add a ceiling plane

Are the dormers actually supposed to be separate roof planes? They are very close to the same elevation as the main roof plane.

b) shorten the length of that roof plane at its top. There is no other way to get Chief to model that roof surface differently.

e) open the roof dialog / Options / check Higher Eaves Boxed

Does Layout Line Scaling work anymore? I have a few layer sets in almost all my plans that I print out on different size paper and at different scales than the actual home plans and none of my line weights match anymore. Is anyone else having this same issue?

It might have something to do with everything in the plan being slightly off from accurate.

x15 but I didn't look closely enough to notice that. Whoops...

If you change the roof structure depth to 9 1/4", then select all the rafters, open and close the dialog box without changing anything, they will correct themselves.

You have too many items not set to the default and too many items not defined correctly. You should seek some paid advice from one of the advance Chief users or from Chief Tech Support. Invest a couple of hours in paid training and it'll pay for itself on one project! You won't regret it.

The room type "Basement" does not work correctly. There is a bug in this plan that prevents this room type from accepting the default floor structure.

All of these have the floor settings of a garage...room supplied by floor below.

You also have rooms on the main floor that aren't specified properly. Several rooms have the 'floor supplied...below' when they should not. Start with the Mud Room.

Rooms left as "Unspecified" don't incorporate all the settings. You're essentially telling Chief that you're not done so don't build anything proper in those areas.

1. Create a room type for UNEXCAVATED.

Post that plan and I'll try to help. There may be something simple that you're overlooking.

Thanks for pointing that out. I have edited my post!

I believe this is officially the 'c' key . The 'x' key is to resize the object. The 'Alt' key allows resizing from a corner and the 'z' key allows movement of the object.

I also used to add these lines manually. I had to stop because I'm too busy but it is my preferred way of clarifying the context of the leader line. Please add this to the 'Suggestions' topic!

Set the new wall to be a 'furred wall'. Draw it close, then move it into place using the temporary dimension tool.

1. Make sure that all walls are set to use the default top and bottom heights. 2. Review the sill plate settings for the foundation walls and make sure they are all the same. 3. Review the Extension setting for the main floor exterior wall and make sure it is how you'd like it.

Have you tried using live views in layout? Personally, I would NEVER touch a live view with a 10 foot pole mouse, cursor...?!

1. Open terrain perimeter, turn on Auto Rebuild Terrain 2. On the right side of the building, add more elevation data to even out the terrain to your desired elevation. Chief seems to build terrain in a wave (think grade 11 graphing math). So, when you get a wave where the crest is too high, add data to lower that crest. 3. When using a terrain break hidden in a retaining wall, set the transition distance to 1" or 2". ORIGINAL ALTERED:

I usually open all images (in Chief) to be exported at once (group select in project browser), then simply move through the export process 1 at a time. After the first images is saved to the correct folder, the same folder always re-opens so saving is super quick.

Why print them at all? Why not save them using a jpg format? It's much quicker. If you save the images at the active window size, the export is essentially instant for a standard render technique. Yes, you'll still need to export them one at a time...