Larry_Sweeney

Doug................Probably the one "cad thing" I miss most from coming from ACAD is the "stretch command". This is a very common command in almost all CAD programs. Another area that could use improvement in the cad department is in the area of dimensioning. I get so-o-o frustrated at times when I'm trying to snap to a point with the dimension tool and it jumps to a point somewhere else (sometimes not even on the screen) when all my "Locate Objects" are all setup correctly.

Curt ............. Sorry I didn't get right back to you. I had to step out of the office. but this corrected the problem. I had to go around and click on every line, but it finally would close. I'm not sure what the problem was caused by the profile is working as it should now. As for the "edit object parts"---that was a typo. Thanks to all for your input. Have a great day.

I downloaded a molding profile to use in a plan. All the lines of the profiles are the same as far as layer, Linetype, size & color. I can not get it to close. I have "edit object parts" turned on. No matter which line I click on of the profile only that line is highlighted. I've tried double clicking the ends of the line where it is connected to the next line to it, but it won't connect. I've moved the end of the line then snapped it back to the next line, but it still doesn't connect. Any suggestions? If I don't reply to questions right away it's because I have to step out of the office for a bit.

I think I've tried everything everyone has suggested. (execpt PSP, which I don't have) I know this isn't the end of the world and there are work arounds. It just bugs me. There has to be something I'm missing. I'm attaching the porch as I have them to date. (still have work to do on them) If anyone wants to take the time to figure this out --- thank you. Your suggestions and time are much appreciated. Have a great day BERLINS REAR PORCH 06272014.zip

I'm using the "white beadboard" material for a porch ceiling. I'm using a flat ceiling and sloped ceiling planes under the same structure. I rotated the beadboard material and gave it a different name so it was running perpendicular to the rafters. on the flat area of the ceiling I wanted to use the "standard" white beadboard material, but no matter which white beadboard material I call for ( rotated or standard) it shows as the rotated beadboard material.----Any suggestions on what the problem is?

Joe......I was using different wall types and in playing around I was able to position the walls like i wanted, but at some point the one wall would jump to the corner. I then changed the height of one wall by 1/4" and it seems to be staying in the correct position. Thank you for your's and other's advice. Have a great day.

Shown in the attachment is the problem I mentioned a couple of threads back. I want to move wall "B" up to line "C" and leave the short section wall "A", but when I do that wall "B" jumps to point "D". Does anyone have a good solution?

Joe & Alan...............I'm having one problem on the side of the porch with the short wing walls. On the right side where the short wing wall is I show (cad detail elevation) the wing wall stopping and then a 4" (approx.) length area, before the cutout starts. When using railing walls to make the cutout, I try to make the railing wall do the short 4" return into the wing wall, but the wing walls jumps to the corner of the cutout. If you look at the pictures of the original porch, it shows a newel post at this area which is a detail I'm going to try and duplicate with p-solids or mill work pieces. I don't think I can get the same look as in the picture using railing wall newels & balusters. I think there was a thread some time ago how to deal with this kind of situation.

Alan.......I didn't use railing walls because with railing walls there were no shingles below the floor level on the outside or shingles on the ends of the short wing walls. Where the short wing walls are, what I did was make a door opening with no casings, frame, etc. where the steps are located and manually dropped the height of that wall. Maybe I'm approaching this whole thing wrong. Also I didn't realize I had put this thread in the Chatroom instead of the Q & A section. Do you know if I can and how to put this thread on the Q & A section?

I started a porch addition on an old Victorian and am attempting to match details that are elsewhere on the home. I've attached the plan and some pictures of the detail I'm attempting, but ran into a problem with doing a cutout for the steps on the porch floor. It probably really isn't a problem. It's just that I may be having a "brain fart". I show in the snips where I want the cutouts. If you go to the "Project Browser" and look at the cad detail you will also get an idea of what I'm after. In the cad detail I drew cad elevations of the porch in the process of laying the project out. Any help on doing these "cutout" will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance for the advice and time. BERLINS REAR PORCH 06242014.zip

The easiest solution to your problem is to post the plan.

1.Sometimes CA won't build a auto return for whatever reason. Just build it manually. I usually always build mine manually. By doing that I have the option to give the return a different pitch than the rest of the roof. 2. Put the stacked gable on it's own layer and then changed the material.

This link should answer your question. http://www.chieftalk.com/showthread.php?65528-Eaves-and-roof-returns&highlight=cornice+returns

It may be that your sub-fascia is to large. Try changing the sub-fascia to a different size and see if that makes a difference.

Nicinus........From the sound of what you are wanting to do gives me the impression you are (or were) a ACAD user at one time. CA is first and for most a 3D modeling program. It is so-o-o lacking in the CAD department it's unbelievable and unless a person has worked in ACAD or some other "good" cad program they won't know what I'm talking about. You don't know what you don't know. I've been using the program since V10 and I've (and many others) been asking for improvements in the CAD area of CA since then. I try to do all my cad work with CA's cad, but it is so frustrating and time consuming at times. Each new version I think "maybe this one!"

I had the same problem a few months ago. If I remember correctly I ended up making the steps out of a series of landings. This way I could make them any shape I wanted too.

If CA ever wants to get "into" light commercial they will have to figure out the "rubber roof department". Adding sloped rigid insulation sheets under the membrane and above the decking is a whole new ballgame for CA roofs. I guess for now with cross sections showing rubber roofs there will be a lot of cad work until (and if) CA figures this out.

I have a project that calls for a rubber membrane roof on part of the building. I was going to give this area a 1/4" pitch to the drains. In setting up my roof defaults I tried to make 0" overhang, but CA pops the 0" back to 1/4". I've never tried 0" overhang before and was wondering if it has always been this way? I know (or I think) I can always manually changed the overhand to 0" but why not be able to set the roof default to 0" overhang.?

Scott ........Many thanks for the video on the window. The way I was thinking of doing it would have been much more complicated. Kevin........Many thanks also for your video also. I need to watch it a few more times to absorb everything. The video goes much faster than my brain. I also liked the music, but miss Scott's commentaries, but then again, there is only one Scott (at least I hope so) . Your roof video has me on the right track. I have to work on the "flare" at the drip as shown in the picture, but I'm up to the challenge (with a strong cup of coffee beside me and Chieftalk a "click" away) I love working on these old Victorian homes. They challenge me and CA with their architectural details. To all..........I always appreciate anyone who takes the time for "handing" out advice. Time is something we never get back. Have a GREAT day!

For the window, I'm not quite sure how to "wrap" the shingles back into the window.....special designed casing symbol? Getting the regular siding shingles to line up with the "wrap around" shingles will probably be the hardest thing. What makes the area above the "bay" tougher is that you have to "add in" the flare out that is positioned all along the first floor ceiling level line. This flare, I think, could be accomplished by a molding p-line. It's the extension above the bay along with the shingles and then lining up those shingles with the "regular" siding singles of the exterior wall that has my hair falling out.

This would be accomplished with the same "thought process" in CA as in the "real world". To set the unit "within" a wall you will probably have to make a "passthru" or "door" opening with no sill, jamb or casing in the wall where you want it placed and sized for the unit. I HIT THE "POST" HALF A DOZEN TIMES AND MY REPLY WOULD NOT POST. HAS ANYONE ELSE BEEN HAVING THIS PROBLEM? I ENDED UP MAKING A WHOLE NEW REPLY.

Over the last three years I've been working on a project for a customer and it has taxed my knowledge of using CA and the capabilities of CA. I now have to make a model of the entire original structure and add some "period" additions to a already large structure for the period of it's construction. This 1890's home was considered "the cottage" by the original owner. I'm not quit sure how to go about best accomplishing the two details shown in the attachment and am asking for help from the knowledge base of this forum. With much patience I think at some point I would be able to come up with something. I'm just hoping someone on the forum has had experience in dealing with details like this and are open to passing on advice.There will probably be other items in the future I'll be asking about on how to do, but for now this is a start. Many thanks up front for advice.

Charlie....Yes, nicely done. Over the years I've worked on and did design work for many homes of this design type/period. If I may, I would like to give some suggestions. I know you weren't looking for that, but sometimes it's the little things that put the "icing on the cake". 1. It's hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the base molding is thicker and extends out past the casing. 2. I've seen many houses of this period having the same type "first tread" as you show with one exception. The rounded ends on the first tread is not cut off, but are returned all the way around to the wall as a full half circle. To be honest, I'm not sure CA can do this with their first tread. I think you will need to use a landing for the first tread to accomplish this procedure. 3. The outside corner trim/door casing to the right and across from the bottom of the stairs should go all the why to the floor and the base should butt into it instead of the corner trim butting into the top of the base. Please understand, I think you did a great job. These are (fine tunning) items I know from experience and am just passing them on to make a "A" design an "A+". Have a great day and good luck with your design.

Charlie....Are you asking for anything or just showing?

odmac1.......You should move this thread to the Q & A section. You will get a response much quicker.