Larry_Sweeney

Scott................Not getting anywhere. I guess it's time to zip. the plan. It's one of those "PROJECTS" I was just doing as a favor for a friend and I end up losing hair over it. Oh well, what are friends for. Thanks for your time and knowledge-----always appreciated. Quaker Const. Addition.zip

Scott.............I did try manually moving the hole, but I would still get the same offsets in the shaft opening at the top and bottom of of the skylight as shown in the new attachments.Do I need to post this simple plan? I'm drawing a blank. It has to be something I don't have setup correctly, but my brain must be lost in the "semi-retirement world"

I want to put skylights in a roof where I'm using scissor trusses with a 5/12 pitch for the roof and a 3/12 pitch for the ceiling below. When I install the skylight the ceiling hole does not line up with the shaft. I show this at points "A" and "B" in the first two attachments. I tried deleteing the hole in the ceiling and then make my own hole in the ceiling, but I got the message shown in the third attachment. Am I having this problem because of the two different pitches or am I doing something wrong somewhere else? I'm not attaching the plan at this time because I'm thinking this is a very simple plan using scissor trusses. If no one can come up with the solution I will zip the plan later.

It's gable at both ends and I'm not able to add a raised heel due to other factors. I had gone over all this with the truss manufacturer and they said the 2.75 pitch was workable for the span I noted.

I was thinking the 2" difference was something I would work with for starters also. I had a call into a truss company from last week and they just got back to me while I was writing this reply. I was told that with a 4.5 pitch on the exterior and a 33' span I could do a max. of 2.75 pitch on the interior using 2x6 chords @ 24" centers. Thanks for everyone's advice. They also told me the 2" "rule of thumb" is a good thing to use.

Truthfully I don't use trusses very often (stick built "old timer") and just thought I could find a quick answer from someone on the forum. I have a customer that wants me to design a pavilion that will have a 4.5/12 roof pitch with a 33' span. The customer wants a cathedral ceiling. I thought it would be much less expensive to use a scissor truss with a less pitch on the interior. Is there a "rule of thumb" as to how much less of a pitch has to be on the ceiling as compared to the actual roof pitch? I wasn't sure if it would depend on the span or a "rule of thumb" and yes, I do know someone is going to tell me to call an engineer or the truss company. Thanks in advance for your input.

Jay......No. The Time Tracker is not shown in the "Tools" drop down list.

mcrump.............If you don't mind me asking. How is the large roof with the cathedral ceiling going to be constructed? That's a long span with a lot of width for a cathedral ceiling. The cathedral ceiling looks like it goes all the way to the ridge with no collar ties of any kind. I did not download it, so I'm just observing from the pictures.

Yes, this is more correct, I think. Though if each wall has the same amount of layers pass the main layer you shouldn't have to use the "THROUGH WALL AT START". I guess it just depends on how different the wall types are and how you want the look at the corner. "THROUGH WALL AT START/or END" gives you that option.

Scott....What you're saying is the same thing I said isn't it? You need to have the same number of wall layers beyond the main layer on the exterior side.

I've had this happen to me a couple of time lately. One time I was trying to move a door. The other time I think it was a window, so it's showing as a problem in a number of places. I found by closing CA and then reopening it corrected the problem. I work from my home office so there are times I have CA open on the computer for days at a time. This probably doesn't help the problem and I just figured that was the main root of the problem when it would correct once I closed CA down and then reopened it. Maybe I was just lucky.

I "think" what David means when he says "Walls connect by way of the wall's "Main Layer" so if your main layer radio button position is incorrectly set" is that on the walls you are trying to connect you need the same amount to layers beyond the Main Layer to get the "proper" look/connection in plan and render views. If I'm wrong David, please chime in and correct me.

Ray..........I just read your post so I'm not sure if you are still interested in a door unit with sidelites, rect. transom, but I'll send it out anyway. I had this in a model I did a few years back so I just took the wall that had the door unit in it and put it in a new plan rather than make it a symbol. You can unblock it and play around with the size. door.zip

By "cleaner" I'm not quite sure what you're after. When you use "Cross Section/Elevation" you get everything from the section cut to the end of the model of what is turned on in the layer set you are using. You can get a "cleaner" look by turning off certain layers. You can also use "Backclipped Cross Section" and you get from the cut to the distance and direction you move your mouse while holding the left mouse button down. This can also give you what I would call a "cleaner" look. It all depends what you want to see or not see. Can you show the section using AutoCad so we can see the comparison between AC and CA? I and others will then have a better understanding what you want.

Instead of second guessing the problem, which could be caused by many different things, the best thing to do would be to post the plan.

Make it using a rectangular polyline in plan view and then convert it to a sidewalk. This way you can give it the exact shape you want.

My first thought is to close CA and then reopen it. Sometimes that's all it takes when CA is doing something really weird. If that doesn't work and you don't get a better response from someone else contact tech support.

Found it! Have a great day.

Is there a quick way to find a center of of an arc. I know I can find the radius of the arc by highlighting it, then make a circle of that radius at each end of the arc line and at the intersection of the two circles is the center of the arc. but isn't there and easier way? I was thinking there was a dbx. somewhere that you could check that would show the centers of an arc when highlighted.

By "3D polyline" are you referring to a 3D molding polyline? If you are, I don't quite understand the problem. You should have no problem by using a 3D molding polyline of your profile, making the molding material the exterior siding surface and following around the outside of the house wall. By doing this your inside/outside corners and ends should look correct. If your molding profile extends up into your windows you might need to us a "shorten" variation of your molding profile under your windows. Possibility posting the plan will help clarify what you want.

Lew.........I did the "F12 thing" many times while I was trying to figure out what the heck was going on. I also did the slap upside the head (mine) along with a couple long walks around the property with a beer. It was actually the second time I closed CA and reopened it that I got the correct results. I think the guys at support have my computer somehow wired into their system and were playing with me.

Glenn & Gerry............Thanks so much for your expert knowledge in using CA. Much appreciated. I hope this detail/information may be of some use to others "down the road". Have a great day.

Glenn.....Does your version look like a wall in plan view? That would be more important to me than the framing. I can deal with the framing in other ways. If your "wall" looks correct in plan view, I'm really interested in the procedure.

Joe......That's basically what I came up with. I haven't figured out how to get rid of the small sliver on the one side. There must be a "magic work around"

Mick, Jim, Robert and others.....Just to let you know. "Use Soffit surface for ceiling" was not checked. It is a Deck and that should not effect it. As a matter of fact everything is checked as it should be to give me the correct results. Out of frustration deleted the roof planes in question and rebuilt them using all the exact same settings and now the rafters are acting correctly. I don't know rather to be glad or p***ed off. As far as I can figure there is nothing different between the old roof planes and the new ones. One other thing I did come to think of was close CA down and reopen it. I know that can be the "majic touch" sometimes. CA can be soooo frustrating at times. Thanks to all for your advice on this matter. Have a great day.