Larry_Sweeney

Perry......I guess you didn't see my edit. I meant "gable sub fascia". I have a freize board detail in the gable. When I turn off soffits my rafters are once again 7 1/4", but I loose my frieze detail. (attachment)

I specify 7 1/4" rafters for my roof, but if I make my gable sub fascia 5 1/2" all my rafters on that roof plan go to 5 1/2". What am I doing wrong? Edit.........I should have written "Gable Sub Fascia Question" as the topic

Bill.......If I'm understanding what you are showing me, CA will cap the "rail" wall I have in my model if it is just a rectangular board with square edges for the cap. As soon as there is a "molding profile" ( even just rounded over edges?) on the sides CA will have "problems". Is this correct? I'll have to play around with this sometime today. Appreciate the time you've taken to work on my problem. Do you work with SU much? If so, do you think SU can accomplish making the railing cap?

Bill.......All this is ia a compound miter. It's all in finding the correct angles. Bryce.......I've scratched my head on this type of compound angle before. I "think" I found a work around. It's a real PITA, but it doesn't look to bad. I took the original 3D molding line I used in my first thread and made a copy of it. Then I turned off the molding on all the lines except the top one. I then took the copied 3D molding and turned of the top section. After that I sat the original 3D molding and the copied 3D molding on top of each other. By moving the molding lines around a little I was able to get a satisfactory look. It's not perfect but it'll work. I think with a little more playing around a person could learn to do this "fairly" quickly. The left side went much faster that the right side and looks a little better also. It's still a PITA, but it can be done. The actual molding profile probably makes a difference also. I'll have to play around with it some more.-------ANOTHER DAY! BERLIN FLARED RAILING 2.zip

Am I trying the impossible with a 3D molding? For the "railing wall" I used a regular exterior wall and then resized it to suit my needs. I then tried using a 3D molding of the entire rail cap but I get the odd results shown in the attachments. I also tried using p-solids, for the areas of the railing cap directly on top of the wall with a combination of 3D moldings on the sides of the rail cap, but I couldn't find the right combination for the compound angles I'm trying to achieve with the angled railing wall for the steps. (This style was used on "level" railing around the porch) The client keeps making what he thinks are minor changes, but for me (and CA) they seem to me major hurtles. I hope I'm making sense of what I'm trying to accomplish. It seems I'm always taxing my abilities and CA's to the limits. My rail cap could quite possibly be accomplished in SU, but I have only work in SU a couple of times and it has been almost two years ago. I hate to have to go through the "learning curve again". Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. (I'm coffeed out!) BERLIN FLARED RAILING.zip

Support more or less told me some time ago "The squeakiest wheel gets greased first!". Soooo.....start squeaking.

After doing some more searching I found the answer. This is the correct answer to the problem. It's from Kenoeightspot (Bill Page)............Click on the "Spray can Icon" then check the "Use default" box, then click on the top and bottom walls and see if this changes your walls back to the default wall types. Thank you Bill.

That was my first thought also. It's in the 3D View Defaults.

I have a wall with the same material (wood shingles) on both sides. I decided to make it a pony wall and change the lower pony wall's material to white beadboard on the inside. When I look at the wall in the window when setting the wall type it shows beadboard in the correct area. When I click on the wall in render view and go to the material list for the wall it shows the interior lower wall material as the white beadboard, but when I view the pony wall in render view it stills shows it as having shingles on the lower inside wall. when I click on the lower inside pony wall with the "adjust material definiton" tool it shows the shingles as it's material. Anyone have an idea what's going on? I'm not posting the plan at this time because I think someone probably knows the answer.

Bill......Thank you so much. It's the "little things" that can drive me up a wall sometimes. Your time, help and advice are much appreciated. Have a great day!

Bill....... I finally got my corners to connect, but I still have the bed moulding projecting through the roof on the left side of the gable. There is no projection of a bed moulding on the right side. I did/do have "EAVE ONLY" marked, but the molding still shows. I'm not sure what is different between your changes to eliminate this moulding through the roof and what I have. I'm sending along my revised plans with the corners connected and my bed moulding projecting for the roof. There must still be something different. Thanks for taking the time. It's always very much appreciated. Mark....Thanks for taking the time. I looked at and studied your suggestions. I see you changed the pitch to get the connections and also some of the overhang distances. This morning. when I got up to the computer, I completely rebuilt the short roof on the gable end and then they connected. I did this last night also, but it didn't connect then. As I mentioned above to Bill, I still have the moulding projecting through the roof. I'm sure we'll get the problem solved. Thank you again. Have a great day. BERLIN REAR PORCH 07192014.zip

I have two roof planes that will not connect. As far as I can tell everything is the same. The small roof on the gable end doesn't "connect" at either corner. ("B" in attachment) Also a section to the shadow board is sticking through the roof. ("A" in attachment) This only sticks through the roof on one side of the gable end. I deleted surfaces to try and see why or what was sticking out and noticed there is only a short section of this molding. (?) I've been frigging with this problem way too long and am getting nowhere. It's probably something simple I'm missing, but I need a new set of eyes (brain) looking at it------mine is fried. I attached the plan if anyone wants to take a gander at my problem. Thank you. BERLIN REAR PORCH.zip

Yes CA, this (SPAM) is getting a little ridiculous!!! Let's have a response to this "S**T"! This spam is going to "bite" us one of these times and when it does the crap will hit the fan.

Scott...... Remember when we talked about "STRETCH" in this thread sometime ago? http://www.chieftalk.com/showthread.php?62903-Edit-Area-in-Cad-Detail!!!!

Glenn.... Here is the thread where we went into detail about a cad "stretch command" form sometime back a year or two. http://www.chieftalk.com/showthread.php?62903-Edit-Area-in-Cad-Detail!!!!

Glenn....This is "sort of" true when moving cad in a floor plan (edit command), but go to a cad detail and try to use the "edit" commands ----they are greyed out. We talked about this back in the "old ChiefTalk" but so far I've been unable to find the thread. I'll keep looking for it and if I find it I'll post the thread here.

Just a note.......Your pinth block should be as high or a little higher and deeper than your base. Then even if it did return you would not see it.

Doug................Probably the one "cad thing" I miss most from coming from ACAD is the "stretch command". This is a very common command in almost all CAD programs. Another area that could use improvement in the cad department is in the area of dimensioning. I get so-o-o frustrated at times when I'm trying to snap to a point with the dimension tool and it jumps to a point somewhere else (sometimes not even on the screen) when all my "Locate Objects" are all setup correctly.

Curt ............. Sorry I didn't get right back to you. I had to step out of the office. but this corrected the problem. I had to go around and click on every line, but it finally would close. I'm not sure what the problem was caused by the profile is working as it should now. As for the "edit object parts"---that was a typo. Thanks to all for your input. Have a great day.

I downloaded a molding profile to use in a plan. All the lines of the profiles are the same as far as layer, Linetype, size & color. I can not get it to close. I have "edit object parts" turned on. No matter which line I click on of the profile only that line is highlighted. I've tried double clicking the ends of the line where it is connected to the next line to it, but it won't connect. I've moved the end of the line then snapped it back to the next line, but it still doesn't connect. Any suggestions? If I don't reply to questions right away it's because I have to step out of the office for a bit.

I think I've tried everything everyone has suggested. (execpt PSP, which I don't have) I know this isn't the end of the world and there are work arounds. It just bugs me. There has to be something I'm missing. I'm attaching the porch as I have them to date. (still have work to do on them) If anyone wants to take the time to figure this out --- thank you. Your suggestions and time are much appreciated. Have a great day BERLINS REAR PORCH 06272014.zip

I'm using the "white beadboard" material for a porch ceiling. I'm using a flat ceiling and sloped ceiling planes under the same structure. I rotated the beadboard material and gave it a different name so it was running perpendicular to the rafters. on the flat area of the ceiling I wanted to use the "standard" white beadboard material, but no matter which white beadboard material I call for ( rotated or standard) it shows as the rotated beadboard material.----Any suggestions on what the problem is?

Joe......I was using different wall types and in playing around I was able to position the walls like i wanted, but at some point the one wall would jump to the corner. I then changed the height of one wall by 1/4" and it seems to be staying in the correct position. Thank you for your's and other's advice. Have a great day.

Shown in the attachment is the problem I mentioned a couple of threads back. I want to move wall "B" up to line "C" and leave the short section wall "A", but when I do that wall "B" jumps to point "D". Does anyone have a good solution?

Joe & Alan...............I'm having one problem on the side of the porch with the short wing walls. On the right side where the short wing wall is I show (cad detail elevation) the wing wall stopping and then a 4" (approx.) length area, before the cutout starts. When using railing walls to make the cutout, I try to make the railing wall do the short 4" return into the wing wall, but the wing walls jumps to the corner of the cutout. If you look at the pictures of the original porch, it shows a newel post at this area which is a detail I'm going to try and duplicate with p-solids or mill work pieces. I don't think I can get the same look as in the picture using railing wall newels & balusters. I think there was a thread some time ago how to deal with this kind of situation.