SHCanada2

i would try: 0. leaving main floor at 0 1. entering all the terrain points 2. determine the distance from the subfloor to the terain at a specific point adjacent to the house 3. adjust the "subfloor height above terrain" to match so for instance if the terrain is at 97' ASL at the front of the house and 95' ASL at the back of the house and you want the subfloor to be 3' above the front of the house, the value would be 100' Below are two terrain regions left at 97', right at 95', and "subfloor height above terrain" at 100' but i've never found a way to autostorey pole it correctly. if you set the grade level marker in the defaults to -100 ft and then remove it from the storey pole dimension, it will show correctly... just requires the manual work, but maybe others have found a way.

I thought about this as well, but then decided maybe upgrading the hardware more frequently would be the better choice, as you never know what might be coming next, plus you get the new o/s when you upgrade HW

I believe you could implicitly figure out level 3 is the attic by using a room label macro, and then publish that to a global variable. But as the OP desires this on layout, the plan would have to be open as well to run the room label macro (or start reading and writing files). Me thinks it would be a lot of work ensuring the value was for the specific plan

one thing I have noticed is my memory is not pinned, video card memory is not pinned, and my CPU is not pinned but CA is not "lightning quick" . so I'm not sure the extras you are scoping out would be much better than half of what you spec. ...but that is just my experience. I'd be curious to find out what exactly if anything is a measurable difference, because then I think everyone could spend the money on what is making the difference. i.e I'd go spend the extra $500 on the better processor if that was the factor

i do a fair amount of basement entries, just not usually fully enclosed (usually post and roof, or just railing). But there are a couple things to ensure you do in order to avoid redoing. 1. set the terrain height correctly relative to the main floor of the main building. I typically measure this with a tape measure against a known entity, such as front steps or window (then you go inside an ,measure distance to floor) 2. Once that is set, measure your top of concrete stairwell walls from grade. Usually here it is above grade a few inches.your picture looks like ~8 inches 3. then adjust your exterior room height at the basement level you created to have the proper ceiling height to match 2 4. pull a section and make sure the measurements are correct then do the rest

nothing in the file?

i cant figure out what it is/does. It looks like something I had 20 years ago. It was an electronic pen with special paper. When you came back to the office you would dock the pen and it would download the images to your computer. It even had OCR but could not really read my writing

yes it matches yours ...or maybe I should uncheck it..i'll try that ...although its definition implies this would maintain the correct exterior layer When Auto Reverse Wall Layers is checked, walls will automatically reverse their layers to ensure that exterior layers face the exterior of the structure. Uncheck this to leave the orientation of the wall layers unchanged.

i checked and it is "main layer outside" yes that works nicely....eyedropper does as well...now that I know it is the exterior material that is being changed attached is narrated 13.11.2022_13.00.50_REC.mp4

now i know how it happened. CA is changing it 13.11.2022_10.58.04_REC.mp4

well i did find out the problem, the material for that wall's exterior surface is "drywall". no idea how that happened

attached is video showing how redrawing the wall fixes it 13.11.2022_10.25.50_REC.mp4

attached . it is a test plan Untitled 1.plan

that is how i have it and i do not get the extra rooms it is set to frame through which i think is correct based on the article i'm beginning to think this little -- is normal, just never see it because the layers are on

if I do not draw walls clockwise, when I modify existing walls(trying to create a cubby hole) I get the siding on backwards (not on the interior wall, but actually backwards on the outside of the wall) . It can be seen by removing the drywall from the wall. CA suggests to draw clockwise, but also indicate that the wall will be reversed if you do not (which can be corrected with the reverse layers) Reversing Wall Layers (chiefarchitect.com) The odd thing is if I put in a pony wall the bottom of the wall is correct, but the top is not ; pony wall, both the top and bottom siding 6: if i remove the drywall and osb from the wall I can see with a camera that the siding is on the exterior of the wall, just backwards. Is this normal? is there a way to fix it (other than redrawing the wall clockwise). The reverse layers doesnt work because the siding is not on the inside of the wall, you can see when zooming in it is actually on the correct side: 12.11.2022_21.17.41_REC.mp4

thanks, just discovered what the wall problem is, i will create a new post. it seems interesting.

I believe that is what I have. If I turn on the layers, it looks like: and my wall definition is the irony is the whole reason I started looking is because I was getting this: and I was trying to make sure the walls were all connected properly. they seem to line up top to bottom from foundation to second floor

hmmm I'm pretty sure the point of making it furred is so I do not have the 2x4 wall next to the concrete wall and then CA making a tiny room. as I used to do it that way and then CA suggested it be furred My wall is concrete, air gap, 2x4. I've been doing it like this for a couple years after having micro room problem.. but I dont understand what you are suggesting..., concrete wall and then a 2x4 right beside it? is it no locate to avoid the micro room problem

I'm sure I've seen this before just dont recall how to fix it or if i need to fix. these are furred walls. maybe it is just showing the intersection of the concrete wall? but if so you'd think it would have a vertical one too if i pull both walls past the corner (there are now 3 lines one vertical and two horizontal if I change to non furred walls I do not get the -- If I change back to furred its now different with the corner missing

in you do a search of the forum you will find the details. It has been detailed many times

no foundation or slab? I think...you have glass walls where you should have normal walls and windows?

This is what I do, my template layout has layout boxes for elevations (my template plan has them on the plan), layout boxes for kitchen(my template plan has them on the plan, 4 directions) , layout boxes for details, and layout boxes for basement and main floor. The you can use the tools->reference files to change for a new plan

We do steel pilings like that up here, except they just pound them down, then cut them off. Never seen them done by drilling the hole, putting in the wood timber and then backfilling. I mean we do fences posts like that up here and then fill the hole with concrete. ...interesting, so the lateral support is the ground then. makes sense, surprised it is just backfill and not concrete backfill, but maybe whatever is being backfilled is easily packed. I think this is the same way they do telephone poles up here, just backfill

I did this with the bosch measure on app and a tablet, and it worked pretty good, because I walked around with it. and you tap to enter a window and then enter W, L, height off floor, distance to wall corner. it also locked the walls once you had a measurement so it was pretty easy to see that the measurement took the BT reading. But now (if I can) I go and take a few measurements *usually a room), put in CA in the laptop sitting in the middle of the house, go back, get some more, etc. Don;t get me wrong, it gets me excercise, but a bit of a PIA. I do this rather than draw it all out because, well i like to see how it comes together in case something does not make sense. So i thought maybe a surface pro and CA would be the ticket, but given CA does not lock the walls, that is probably a large limitation, as you would not know what you measured vs what you did not. But i wanted to know if someone tried and how it worked the above link shows it working with regular walls and looks to show an outside dim being measured

i just noticed this: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01846/using-a-leica-disto-device-with-chief-architect-software.html seems to take the BT from disto and put it into the dim box has anyone tried it? is it efficient?