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Bill_Emery
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Everything posted by Bill_Emery
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I'm guessing this is what you're looking for. The location of this feature must have made sense to a programmer at some point.
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Is this what you're looking for? This is done with a hidden set of stairs below and wider than the stairs that are visible. Railing walls are set to follow the hidden stairs, and the railing height adjusted so it works with the visible stairs.
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This is a little indirect, but just uses a text macro that can be copied from room to room.
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Perhaps something like this? These are just normal room labels. The word wrap is created by reducing the length of the text box.
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Open the stair dialog, and turn off the railing. Draw a railing wall under the edge of your stair. Open the DBX for the wall, and tell it to follow the stairs.
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I think you'll need to use a railing wall of the panel type, and tell it to follow the stairs.
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"...and this is dependant on the pitch, which means it must be adjusted for every pitch independently" That's true, but it's really not a lot of trouble when you understand how to control it.
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The cantilever and vertical strut at the wall top plate will generate if the heel height is adjusted so that the bottom most tip of the top chord, and bottom of the bottom chord are at approximately the same height. This is dependent of several factors: roof pitch, eave overhang, and the size of the top and bottom chord. You can use the fact that it is dependent on the overhang, and use the run and rise of the overhang to calculate the amount of rise that you want. You can then stretch or shrink the overhangs to get the look you want at the eaves, and then force a truss rebuild. The truss can be edited to get a similar result when the chord heights don't align, but its not as clean.
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Favorite Backdrops? Share with us!
Bill_Emery replied to Chief_Content's topic in Symbols and Content
Emigrant lake in early spring. The horizon may be a little high, but could be cropped. -
I think there are several ways to get what you want: First: Use window levels to control what shows at the four foot plan section cut level. The windows above will show, but be grayed out. The upper windows can be made to to disappear if you put it on an separate layer, and give them an invisible line style. The label will still show. Second: Use a pony wall set at about the eight foot level (or wherever you need it) to control what shows above, and below. This is probably the best method. All labels will show, and you can toggle between the upper and lower windows in the wall DBX. Third: Use two floors, with the upper floor being "open below" Use the reference layer to bring the label for the upper window down to the first floor.
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The wall elevation camera will only show cabinets(or millwork) that are entirely within the room that the wall elevations originate from. If the cabinet is in another room, or partially in another room, it won't be visible. If this is the case, you may have to use a cross section camera, and adjust the layout box for the room that you want to show.
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I generally use a polyline box to reference the size of a dimension on an image or a PDF. Rotate the PDF to get an orthogonal line you can measure. Then use the box to establish the ratio, and then transform/replicate using the resize option in the DBX.
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Just open the room DBX and uncheck floor under this room, and the slabs will go away. You can select another type of room if you want the room to have different characteristics for the floor. It seems redundant to have a landing and the porch room as well.
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this can be done as a double stair. I have my main stair at 39" wide, and I've specified no railing on the lower section. I've copied the lower section and have unchecked auto heights, and have specified the correct riser heights. with this copied flight, I drag the right edge in about two inches, and then specify a railing on the right. two stairs.plan
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Hi Joe, I did this quickly a few days ago for Dennis Gavin. It's a masonry wall, so it doesn't frame. I used a double wall so that it would look continuous in elevation. You could get this to frame fairly well with a single wall using a variation of Scott's infamous "bucking window" wall technique; but it might not look as good in elevation on the outside. This method allows the windows to be copied/pasted, and resized easily, and the window pair can be saved to the libray' Dennis Gavin's window.plan
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jtcapa1, The position of the "shutter" can be positioned on the inside by using an negative Y offset that is about the thickness of the wall. In the attached screen shot I've used "shutters" on the interior to form the rounded window opening.
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See this thread about elliptical roofs: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/6311-ellipticalbell-gable-end-roof/?view=findpost&p=56168&hl=%2Bpitch+%2Bdegrees Let me know if you need further help. eliptical roof.plan
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stone walls with rounded interior window jambs
Bill_Emery replied to Dennis_Gavin's topic in General Q & A
Hi Dennis, I've taken a little different approach to the problem. I've used a double wall and have placed a window in the outside wall. I then placed a pass though window on the inside wall, and centered on the window in the outer wall. I can maintain an unbroken wall in this way. I've used a deep sill in the outer window, and have added the rounded portion of the opening using "shutters" in the shape of a quarter round. They are mostly adjusted in the window DBX. The round is a millwork symbol with a -12" Y offset. The window pair can be copied around the plan, and resized as necessary. The window pair can also be added to the library. Dennis Gavin's window.plan -
it's not very obvious in the line style DBX. Perhaps it should be better identified. Essentially an invisible line that remains selectable. It's kind of like the invisibility cloak in Harry Potter. Very good for ghost walls, like dormer cheek walls
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Break wall near corner - how to do it close?
Bill_Emery replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
Gene, I think Wendy, and Glenn's method are the best way. It had been so long since I had done this that I forgot about the invisible wall method. But in this screen shot I've been able to reduce the amount of the brick return further than possible with the invisible wall method by using a wall material region for the siding on the return wall -
Break wall near corner - how to do it close?
Bill_Emery replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
I've was able to make the 12" brick return to hold by offsetting the wall 0.01" using the transform/replicate tool. -
I think part of the reason I use the mouse is that it is a familiar way to work with Chief; and also because Chief expects to see a mouse . I must say, I've never really bonded with the stylus, except for handwritten (especially cursive) notes that are easily converted to text. Most things that you can do with the stylus, are just easier using your fingers (as Steve Jobs famously noted). Viewing Chief can be done fairly well with your fingers; drawing really requires the mouse. I just got a Galaxy Note 5 today, and it has a stylus; but it's not as capable as the stylus on the Surface Pro 3. I've heard it will to handwriting to text; but have not yet been able to find that option. The best I can do so far is use OneNote on the Note 5, and convert it later on the PC. There are rumors that the IPad Pro will have a stylus as well. Perhaps we'll see a more capable stylus in the future. And, don't get me started on digitizers. First used one in 1984 on General Dynamic's mainframe computer in San Diego. It was necessary back then, but we have much better interfaces now.
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I use a surface pro 3 for measured drawing, and in general for job site work, and meetings. It works well for these things, but there are a few cautions. I use it with a miniature Logitech mouse, not the stylus It's a small screen; it works, but things are easier on a larger laptop You'll need to work on a flat surface so you can use the keyboard and mouse The integrated graphics card can slow things down doing 3D work on a moderate size plan I love the size and weight. It's no bigger than my clip board.
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Glenn is correct, it is the height of the roof. In the attached plan I've split the roof into two roofs, the main patio roof , and a second for the fill framing. DECK OVER ROOF 2.plan
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Thickened Structural Condition for Spiral Strairs
Bill_Emery replied to chiefhandle's topic in General Q & A
Here I've used a curved wall adjusted in elevation for the base of the balustrade. I had to bring up a wall from the floor below so the stairway would not eclipse the wall. Glenn's (and Johnny's) suggested method is the easiest and most predictable. another method would be to use a 3D molding polyline. spiral stair w wall.plan