GeneDavis

Searched for "craftsman bungalow windows" and lo!

Looks like craftsman pattern to me.

Here's a hint: "sill"

And the cross-bands? Would they be 11" sections of road?

I did it for a three floor house, 0, 1, and 2, the extra plating needed on 1. Did it Chopsaw's way, and it went quickly.

Find it in section view and drag it close, then zoom way in and be more precise.

You can control the stem wall height by editing structure of the room above. I drew a one room house, built its foundation with a 96 inch stemwall, and here is the structure dialog ready for whatever I want to do with height.

What have you tried? How precise must alignment be, and how can you proof it?

Hey Eric, show us the light's settings. Thanks.

Edit in the plan, not by changing defaults.

All the foundation builder needs is shown on the plan view he uses. He is issued just two prints out of a 24-page set. The 3" depth is done by him using two thicknesses of 2x lumber screwed to his forms. The LVLs bearing in these only need 1-3/4" for full load.

Hail Perry!

Thanks! Both work, and either works, so I did the double fix.

What's the setting I am missing? It was part of a recent thread I cannot find. A ceiling plane is getting cut by a "room" I made in a greatroom space, and I cannot figure how to make it not do the cut.

Won't install. Anybody else? t

I have not tried that. Which sink are you using. To work that way, the sink's 2D must include the c'top cutout, and I've not been successful doing that with an imported symbol from Kohler. I want the resultto look like the way I build them. Pics are my result, and a photo from Kohler.

Their models are true 3D, and I prefer the porcelain ones. I take the model into Sketchup and model the U-shaped front panel into it, then change the drain and basket to a different material, and bring it into Chief. It's tedious, because I then make a short cabinet with no countertop upon which to set the sink-with-apron, and do a custom countertop with the cutout, all corners rounded with 3/4 R. You have an easier way, I'm sure. What is it?

Look at the product literature from Cor-A-Vent.

You gotta do it by hand, just like the tile setter. Search for previous threads on this, and you'll see.

I'm doing one with a lot of overframed roof segments, both trussed and stick-framed. Always the under-roof is trussed. These are tedious to roof, if you want the framing details right and the material lists to be close, but that's what's expected from me for this one guy I draw for. Every under-roof has to be stripped of its finishes above the sheathing, so they have to be separated from their adjacent planes, and respecified accordingly. You can't use join-roof-plane tools to do the valley and hip and ridge intersections, so you go with all the tedium of editing using the temp points of intersects. Overframing has got to be a common thing in residential housebuilding, much more common than NanaWall doors, slide-by glass doors, pocket doors in cabinets, and some of the other recent requests. Shouldn't this have some automation to it, much like we have a way to say what a wall spec is when it is abutted to a roof?

Joe, I haven't and I will. Here is JeldWen's page for stacking multi-slide, and note those that pocket. https://www.jeld-wen.com/en-us/products/patio-doors/browse?style=Multi-Sliding

There are two classes of doors mentioned in this thread, both of which Chief should address with mods. Stacking multi-slides are what Rob is needing. Almost all in market are aluminum, and almost all are warm-clime doors. Fold-in and stack. Often referred to with the NanaWall brand. Cost as much as a car. Just as we got barn doors from Chief, we should get these. Good 2-d representation, and in 3-d, options to show open or closed, and for open, how much open. Who's done proper requests for these?

Sounds like what I'm looking at in my Florida house right now. Three panels each on rollers, open it and the connecting slides allow stacking. I'm thinking these are generally warm climate products, and most are aluminum-framed. But I was talking about the brands like Andersen, Pella, Marvin, Lincoln, Windsor. Hope you wrote up a suggestion for Chief to ponder, and it ought to include images.

Mull to fixed is the way they're bought and built, so just do it. Think about it. For an OXX, the rightmost X is a fixed in its own frame. Look at the standard size charts from the big name manufacturers.

Look carefully at your wall definition panel. Use the help function if needed, the button at bottom when the spec dialog is open.