dshall

I am sure I am wrong, but I think if you define the STEM WALL AT -6", you may get what you want.

Another example, the top pic is good, the bottom pic is bad..... what happened? I do not know. I can't imagine what I did to the model that effected the terrain adversely.

Griffin, I have been doing terrains for a long time. I can do them. With some effort I can get what I want........ HOWEVER, I just opened a relatively complex terrain and it was not the way I left it. At one time it work relatively well..... after a few days I go back to the model and the terrain is not behaving as it did. It is a walk out basement........ for some reason there was something I did to the BUILDING MODEL (not the terrain), that messed up the terrain. This kind of stuff is very frustrating... I will not even try to fix it now..... not worth the effort..... I am as frustrated as you. I agree with you, it should not be this difficult to set a terrain and have it STICK. I do not know what the problem is. I think CA can do a "simple terrain" easily... but if it does not fit within their "model", you are on your own. I have terrain "bleeding" into my basement. See attached pic, Note the dirt "bleeding" into the garage. It was not like that a few days ago. I would post the plan, but I do not think anybody can fix it WITHOUT A LOT OF TIME. I do not think it should be necessary to stand on one leg doing 3 hail Mary's to get the terrain to work....... and then hope that if I sneeze the terrain will not screw up. Very very frustrating. As I said, at one time the terrain was great..... you can compare the two pics, note the dirt "bleeding into the garage" in each picture...... it is different in each picture, I did not change the terrain...... very very frustrating...

Gracias

Or you could build a wall, fill it with a widow with mullions.

Yes, I have often seen missing connections....... I can't prove it is a CA issue or user issue. i am talking about electrical connections.

I concur.

On a separate later, yes.

I like the strategy, 1 day of pain, for me it would be 3 days. but I will do you one better, do 5 days of pain and learn to use mouse with non dominate hand.

Hitting the G13 key seems to be more work than necessary..... BTW, I was voted HOT KEY KING by our favorite Sorority Coeds. I have found that 2 keys are enough. If I want to use 3 keystones, I have it set up so that if the 2nd keystroke is a "D", CA knows it will be three keystrokes including the "D". I think with this set up there is the possibility of 13.3 million hot key combinations, which is enough for me, I have a hard time keeping track of 1.38 million hot key combos..... just saying...... I am leaving for Mammoth in 3 hours to do some spring skiing for a couple of days,,,,, if anybody wants to join me, I will be on the GREEN SLOPES....... snowboarding baby!!!!!!! Going with my son, a client and his son........ ain't life grand?

BTW, you should build your foundation... NOW..... this will help you understand how the brick ledge etc is working.

Do not build the garage front wall in 3 segments. Select garage door, copy, drag left wall to the right so you have one wall, garage door disappears, paste in place and garage door is back. All is well. Do not build the front wall in 3 segments... it is one wall.

I have and I don't get it. Who would want center dimensions? Framers snap there lines to edge of framing.

No worries.... it works great unless you have a 3 story and then.....? hence the MMRLS...... but that is another story...... I am busy taking small bites and CA is doing a good job of cutting up my pieces of meat to bite size portions........ sometimes I wish they would feed me more bite size portions..... but it will happen...... Grasshopper must be patient........

Hi Curt, No, I am copying, go to next floor and paste in place...... as long as the door/window is defined by ABSOLUTE ELEVATION when copied... it should work

Here is a tip that I probably do not use enough but is very powerful. Example: The other day someone asked how to show the same window on TWO LEVELS of the floor plan. You need two windows. Put the first window in using FINISH FLOOR HEIGHT, make sure you like location, now open the window DBX and change to ABSOLUTE HEIGHT, you can now copy that window , paste on the other LEVEL, now if you look at a 3D view, you should see only one window (good), and if you look at the floor plans, you should see a window on each level (good). You can use this for many situations, think about wanting to show a light in a stairwell on two levels..... This is a very powerful feature. OOPS, this is not available for electrical symbols. It should be.

I think another solution is put the stairs (if they are in fact exterior stairs), on their own layer called STAIRS EXTERIOR, they should show on first floor and to have them show on the second floor, use the ref sets.

Did you do this? What did you get? Would you mind posting a plan of what you got once you fixed it?

Okay guys, I have attached to screen shots, the ugly one is griffin's, the better screen shot is mine.... what is the difference? the delta between elevation points is the same.... but griffin's elev points are x + 800', mine are simply x + 0'. So here is the question....... what would you do to Griffen's plan to get a topo as good as mine........ remember, I think the delta between elevation points for both plan is similar. THE ELEVATION OF THE POINTS ARE WITHIN 5' OF EACH OTHER. Griffin's elevation are from 850' to 855', mine are from 0' to 5'......... why do we get terrains the are so different? dshd terrain 3.plan

I suppose what confuses me is why the center of the terrain is lower than his defined points? IOW, why isn't it higher? IOW, what defined the height of the low point in middle of terrain.

Great Post

I have been doing terrains a long time. I can almost always get a terrain I like....... via my methods. The fact that I could not fix/understand the issue with your terrain tells me I should take a class in terrain building.

I must apologize, I thought I understood terrains. I think Glenn's advice is good.... use terrain lines...... I will go so far as to say that it is a bug or it does not behave as I would expect. This is probably the best advice Glenn gave you... "Or, you could change the Terrrain Surface Smoothing to Linear - this will smooth out the peaks and troughs.."

I looked at the file and I took a screen shot of what I changed. I'm not sure what else I can say. When I made the change the terrain was essentially flat.

You have one terrain and 3 elevation points.,..... correct? the elevation points are set at 855' plus/minus correct? If you select the terrain and set the SUBFLOOR HEIGHT ABOVE TERRAIN TO 855' , you get essentially a flat lot, correct? so start setting the SUBFLOOR HEIGHT ABOVE TERRAIN TO 855' to what you want...... confusing? yes, but somehow we will muddle our way through it. The point is all you need to do is to set SUBFLOOR HEIGHT ABOVE TERRAIN correctly and you should be good Did that help?