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Okay, I am still not convinced, someone might have to hit me over the head with a anvil, check out the attached pic and see if this changes your mind. Bill, if you are correct, for the last 35 years in San Diego we have been doing it wrong. See pic..... it takes about walls less than 3 feet etc......

This question is for Perry or any other experienced designer. I received a plan check comment that says if my roof eave on my house if less than 5' from property line it needs to be one hour protected. My house is 5' from property line, I have a 2' eave, my eave is min 30" from property line and the plan checker cites section R302.1 and says I need to have 5/8" type x gyp bd at underside of eave for 1 hour protection. In 40 plus years I have never had to do this. Has anybody else had to deal with this? I spoke with JC about this, and he has been doing this stuff for about 237 years, and he has never seen it...... anybody else has some insight to this?

Not the correct answer because Joey is talking eaves and gable ends, the OP is talking about the two gable ends, she is not referring to any eave conditions.

Yeah, you need two roof planes, one roof plane over front gable with no frieze, the second roof plane, the big one, with a frieze..... two roof planes is the answer. Note the orange roof over front roof with no frieze.

Also play with your fascia and sub fascia sizes.

Open the roof plane, check the size of your shadow board, in the pic I deleted the shadow board.... if you want a shadow board, make it smaller than what you specify and it should look better. 2 pics, one with no shadow board, one pic with smaller shadow board.

That is what I call the "virtual slab". They are there because of the defined room.

Did you have to pay extra for the full on version or is it the free version?

That is a great tip, thanks Larry. Any downside?

Great solution by Wendy to get a cap on the wall. Looks real good in 3D. However, in this particular example, the brick did not wrap around the end of the wall. If the wall was on the interior of the house, the brick wraps, if the wall is on the outside, the brick does not wrap. Hey CA, why doesn't the brick wrap around the end of the exterior wall. I sent this to Brian, maybe he will address this issue.

A reason for putting the schedules in a CAD detail. You can copy and post the cad detail/schedule on every sheet of the plans with no problems.

I think this is the most versatile solution, however Wendy did not go far enough in her explanation. After the roof (the temporary roof) is on, take a back clip cross section, and then in elevation view, alter the top of the wall. Make it 2' taller, release, make it 2' shorter (back to original height) , now the wall height is NOT A DEFAULT HEIGHT, you can now remove the roof and the top of wall will stay static.

You my friend are quite good. Is this a hobby of yours or do you make money with CA?

Isn't that interesting. All upper cabinets are relative to the floor from the BOTTOM OF UPPER CABINET, not the TOP OF UPPER CABINET. I think more times than not, all top heights line up and the bottoms do not, i.e. upper cabinet above a cooktop with a microwave under upper cabinet. The top of that upper cabinet will align with the other upper cabinets but the bottom of cabinet does not. Hey, CA, fix this please, thank you. Yeah Barry, you might want to put this in the suggestion box, they don't always listen to these threads.

Yusef does it again, okay Yusef, how did you do it. However, I am with Joe on this one, instead of the riser heights varying, it would be better if the tread depth varied. Come on Yusef, please tell us how you did it.

Nope, can't do it..... however, if you wait long enough, Glenn might prove me wrong.

Very hard to find, my third from bottom is a "t" line style.

I have heard that rumor but never took the time to find it. Please help me out, where is it? The pic shows that last line styles but I do not see the blank line style.

Okay Mickey Too, down and dirty and quick..... hang on to your seats.... https://youtu.be/CZff40HMQX0

That is pretty funny Moakster.

I sold it to Wendy, she is the only one that could pay my price.

Well, when it comes to layouts, what I find very useful is to use anno sets/layer sets to create different LAYOUT BORDERS. By toggling from one anno set to the next you can define your border (depending on the client) and you can also define the size of the border depending on the size of the paper you are going to use for a particular project. Some people might advocate a different LAYOUT FILE TEMPLATE for each client and for each size of printable paper, but by using anno sets and layer sets you can have a multitude of different PROJECT BORDERS and PAPER SIZES all within ONE LAYOUT TEMPLATE.

I get the sarcasm, it was deserved, sorry I was not of any help.

That is so true, and it is not a bad thing, it just means we are constantly fine tuning our methods. A big lesson to learn, and this was my thought 10 years ago when I started using the program... and that is...... it does not have to be perfect today..... it will never be perfect..... I will constantly be fine tuning the methodology......... but for every tweak I make...... I will be quicker at completing the subsequent project. Now if CA ever makes auto updatable elevations an option..... I swear....,.. it will increase my productivity by 10%. Do you hear that CA? ..... 10% my brothers..... auto updatable elevations will be the bomb ...... 70Buddy, point is, you will always be modifying your templates/SAM's, learn how to use anno sets and it will be a no brainer, something that will not effect your work flow, learn to be flexible, learn that you will not have the perfect layer set, your methodology is ever evolving.