mtldesigns

@Straight_Line At times like this, so you don't get frustrated, I'd throw a solid in that gap, put it to the thickness of your tile, and the same layer. Sometimes doors and invisible walls do this, and sometimes they don't.

I saw in there presentation video from last week, that the DW is now a standalone, does not need a cabinet (which is how its supposed to be). I believe she also said the countertop auto fills in. Dang, Jim beat me to your question

Ha.. I'm still using AutoCAD during the day, and then come home and switch gears to Chief. I take a 20 minute power nap so brain can re-adjust. In RE: to wall types and libraries. There are so many types that I have created over the years. ICF, wooden frames (2x, 4x, 6x, 8x...), steel framed, CMU, the list goes on an on. So instead of having a long library, I have a model that has a 12' long wall of each one I have created along the way (and I can keep the same naming method). I just copy and paste the wall I need once I start a new plan. Another benefit is this file in on my OneDrive folder, so I can use easily on my laptop too. The image is an over view

Do it the way Shane states. It's been this way for a very long time, and it is a PITR.

So this has to be up against the wall to work? Where I've noticed where it doesn't work is like steps to a porch post, or floating stairs (what I am working on now, that is not supported by a wall)

I've been meaning to ask this for a minute.. As the subject states, in the stair dbx, we have the option to "extend" top end or bottom end. What's the trick, because this has never worked for me? I always, have to model a solid for that void. Or is this something different than I think it is.. which is to extend the railing in either direction.

@capitaldesigns Hey Mike, Doing something like this myself as we speak. What you do, as Renee mentions, is create a room with the room divider tool. I always make this "wall" a layer that doesn't print in this case. Once you have the room sized, go to the room dbx and pick the "open below" option. You'll then see your stairs. Don't forget to turn that room label off and uncheck if there is a roof or ceiling above it.

@mlyner https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00488/creating-exposed-rafter-tails.html Check this out... see if this leads you in the right direction.

I'm not an astronomist, but I am pretty sure it doesn't. DST takes a play here too. Are you like really off on the shadows?

Thanks.. so you saw what I saw. I appreciate the input. The arrowed picture is perfect.

Starting off on a new 5k build. I will have the center main home, with two wings angled off on each end. I am no where close to being done, but every time I see this floor, it's driving my right eye crazy.. lol. Off the main entrance, the flooring is perpendicular to that wall, but as you go down the hall, that pattern is now angled. I am kinda ok with it like this in the hall, but the bedrooms, it just doesn't look right. Do you change this or leave as is? If I change the bedrooms, it will be an obvious clash in pattern direction at the hall. I was hired as a referral, because this home owner loved the idea of having realistic images of the build she saw I had did. So I want to present something pleasing, so her right eye doesn't go crazy like mine. Any ideas on how to make this better? I am open to suggestions.

@SH_Canada Thanks man, that was it.. I had it as default text style and not room label style.

I've been meaning to ask this for a while.. just didn't take the time until now. In my Plan Default Set all my room labels are Bold and underlined. Exactly how I want them, but in all my other plan views (electrical, kitchen and baths, etc...) the room labels are not bold or underlined. How and where do I get these to come in correctly on these other views? Thanks

@Alaskan_Son WOW.. So did I Larry. I'll have to read up this myself.

Look at your ceiling and your roof framing defaults. Your actual ceiling might be framed a different nom lumber width than your roof framing sizes.