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The first advice I can give is find out what your locale requires, by checking with your codes. For example, California code is a tad different than Florida the last I looked. "shall be of a corrosion resistant type" in Cali... "shall be hot-dipped galvanized, stainless steel, silicon bronze, or otherwise corrosion-resistant as required by FBC-R Section R317" in Florida. I always lean to the hot dipped galv. here in the panhandle, but we are a humid climate also. And it's cheaper than SS.
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It doesn't hurt to look at what's going on above too.. Is there a room above this area? Different joist depths? Weird how yesterday it was fine though...
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Wow, no more material regions for board and batten? That will save a lot of time, since ~50% of the homes here get B&B. The molding on shingles and other materials will be nice too. Very nice.... I don't participate in the beta testing, so I am eager to see all these new enhancements.
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ICF structure w/ steel trusses and Q-decking
mtldesigns replied to winterdd's topic in General Q & A
I def would. Just treat the decking like any other decking, but instead of 3/4" Advantech underlayment like you normally would, call out the Q-decking and the concrete floor (using the correct thicknesses). Shoot, even call out the truss as part of the setup also. -
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This would be my guess too...
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@kellyh will there be a android version of the As Built app?
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@PitMan71 @Joe_Carrick You guys are right. I did change this to 42" after I sent this post. Even though IRC says 36", this is a vacation rental in Mexico Beach, I'd hate it if some person, a kid especially, got to excited and fell over. @robdyck I see what you mean.. don't like Marker for this type of dim. I'll stick with the manual 42". And you are so right, even if I wanted to move the dim off the rail, I cannot pick the top of rail, unless I cheated at put a line there to dim to.
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I am curious on why a railing height dimension changes when moved off the railing, then goes back to how it should be when moved back on top of the railing... see vid. Recording 2026-05-29 234218.mp4
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I'm not sure if my question makes sense. I have one kitchen, half is under a flat ceiling, the other half under a vaulted ceiling. Because of the invisible wall to define the two areas, I have two kitchens now. I've tried a few things,, for example, making that invisible wall, not invisible.. that makes it all one room, but the flat ceiling disappears.. Any idea how to make one room label instead of how I show it?
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Yes they do. Glad they know about it.
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Extra/double interior wall frame – how to define corner connection?
mtldesigns replied to meanwhile's topic in General Q & A
Def. the way I've done this in the past. See the attached for wall dbx -
What kind of exterior porch railing wall type do you guys use or have made, mainly one that is under roof. I've tried the one out of the box for a porch defined area and I get drywall on the outer edges, I've also created one that had no drywall, but then it makes the wall above the opening concrete. Is there a setting, especially for porches, that a "wall" above isn't created? Been dealing with this issue since I can remember.. just never asked.
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I figured I'd need to create a new profile anyways (wanted to soften the edges some), but was seeing if this would even work with OOTB profile. What's 2 CM, about 7/4" of an inch? And I agree, this simple test shows that it does not project to the window frame.
