Alaskan_Son

Sorry, double checked and if we had it, it's been deleted.

Yes. Do this... That's all I do.

I think its pretty clear that there shouldn't be any projections above the handrail. Section R311.7.1 clearly differentiates between clear width above the handrail height and clear width below handrail height only ever listing the handrail projection as a positive number and only ever mentioning clear opening above the handrail as being greater. Regardless of all that though, if I were the inspector on this project, I could very easily argue per section R311.7.2 that the handrails are part of the stairway and therefore any projections above the required handrail should be considered projections into the required headroom space. 39" headroom? FAIL!!!

I wasn't talking about the intent of that particular code section. I was talking about the intent of the Handrail requirements in general.

I see. Let me double check to see if we have a copy on one of our machines.

2017 was the last free desktop version and Sketchup only provides downloads for the last 2 Pro versions.

To me, its clearly not meeting the intent of the code whether its a technical violation or not; however, If we're using the IRC (the basis for most codes in the U.S.), then section 311.7.8.2 could pretty easily be used as the argument: IRC R311.7.8.2 Continuity. Handrails for stairways shall be continuous....blah blah blah....Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1-1/2" between the wall and the handrails. The OP said it..." Stair rails inset into wall."

First off, you didn't actually follow the instructions properly. Those instructions never say to increase the thickness of the drywall. Secondly, the best method depends entirely on what you're trying to show. Chief's instructions are for a true dropped/lowered ceiling where you have a framing layer below another framing layer. Commonly this isn't the case at all and all we really need to do is set a lower ceiling height. Also, there's no point in drawing a dropped ceiling if all you need it for is for some interior renderings or if you're not actually drawing up several framing layers. It really depends on the specifics. No matter what though, you aren't using 6-1/2" thick drywall, so that approach is wrong on all counts.

Totally agree. I suggested they change this very early on. Its a very good example of the slow degradation of our language. Sure, plenty of people say "trey" but its absolutely wrong and it's just become accepted because its been used so much. Oh well, I guess that's how we get a lot of the words we have now. It really does start to matter when we read old writings and try to understand what the writer was trying to communicate.

I didn't read through this whole thread very well so I may have missed something , but you have some goofy things going on. Your problem is caused almost entirely by the fact you dropped the ceiling by increasing the thickness of your drywall. Just return the ceiling finish to the default and drop the ceiling by...actually dropping the ceiling height.

I was only giving you some options that won't cut a hole in the roof above. Wasn't addressing the other issue at all.

You can also either use 2 separate cameras OR you can NOT display the callout on both floors and then just crop a little layout box from the one floor and place it independently over the layout box(es) for the other floor(s).

You’re going to need 2 objects no matter how you slice or dice it right?

Don't use a Hole in Custom Roof / Custom Ceiling. Instead, place the hole using CAD, select the ceiling plane, click Polyline Subtraction, and then click the hole to subtract it from the ceiling. If the hole is in an automatically created ceiling, just use a Hole In Ceiling Platform.

Looks like you have some overlapping countertops and/or cabinets. Post a plan and someone will take a closer look.

What else would you expect? Light can't shine through wood. I'm sure those cabinets in the attached photo have light strips for each shelf level. Model it the same way.

Yup. I feel like a lot of clarification is needed here.

There are several ways to do what you want. Here are a few... Float over one of the corner edit handles, push and hold the X key, and then left click and drag to enlarge the view. Select the Layout Box while holding the Shift or control key and then use the little circular handle at the top of your selection to enlarge the view. Select the Layout Box, click on the Transform/Replicate tool and then enlarge the view using a Resize Factor of greater than 1.0.

You got me! I actually didn't even try. Here's a real quick mock up with some glowing elements though just for fun... I actually thought about adding the glow originally when I was modeling that but concluded it wasn't really worth the effort, especially considering the best method really depends entirely on the rendering type. It's typically a balancing act between super high accuracy and cost, and I'd rather model something that looks relatively accurate in all view types then one that looks really good in one single view type and crappy in all the others.

Use a little section of perpendicular Room Divider wall to more precisely control the break. You can also do what Eric has shown, but it can be pretty complicated and time consuming to get like you want it at ends of walls and at other transitions.

You said it.

Thanks Shane, I can't take full credit though. I don't always model everything from scratch. Sometimes I'll take components from an existing model, separate them out, tweak them as necessary, and then use them for my new symbol. The throw pillows and cushions in the sectional above for example, or the knobs, temperature gauge, and mini-fridge on the grill. The pump station was completely from scratch, but this Wagon Wheel Light I made a few years back is still one of my favorites and one of the more complex items I've modeled completely from scratch...

If we're including symbols that might be used in the construction world but aren't part of the house itself, then I've used Chief pretty heavily for lots of that stuff and have modeled a whole slew of furniture, appliances, and fixtures. Here are a few examples that were done for one particular client here recently.... Pump Station Rattan Sectional Grill Grill 3.webp

First off, its a default setting, a Default Set is a different thing entirely. Second, it's not under Walls. It's controlled by the Room. This is something I alluded to earlier in the thread, and as I tried to point out before, it's also alluded to in that setting you circled in your original post. You'll make far more progress and much much faster if you get into the habit of reading very carefully, using the Help files (as Eric suggested), and really trying to comprehend all that you're reading. Chief is a very complex piece of software (as most 3D architectural programs are) and they've invested a lot of time and energy naming the various settings and writing up instructions for the same. Every little word can be very important and informative. In this particular example you could follow the clues.... You saw a setting for "No Room Moldings...". Open the Room and you'll find a Moldings tab. Right at the top of that tab is a setting titled "Use Floor Defaults". If you read carefully and follow the clues you would land right at the Floor Defaults which is where Room's get their Default settings. And at any time in the process you can click on the little Help button down in the corner to find additional information. Anyway, if some of us seem to be cryptic with our responses, it's likely that we're really just trying to teach you to fish.

Click Help>Launch Help, click the little question mark icon, or press the F1 key (all of which open the Help Files) and then read up on Default Sets, Active/Selected Defaults, Multiple Saved Defaults, and Plan Views. Active/Selected Defaults and Multiple Saved Defaults in particular are really the key components you need to understand.