Alaskan_Son

I wish Materials Lists could be updated as well, but just remember, we have a lot of tools at our disposal to really speed up the generation of new Materials Lists. To name a few: Layer Settings Use them to control which layers are even reporting to the Materials List Components tab Use the Components tab to control exactly what gets reported by any given object Include These Categories This setting found under Preferences>Materials List controls which categories are included by Default Materials List Polylines Use the Materials List Polyline Specification dialog to really dial in what gets report. Then select one or more polylines and click the Calculate Materials in Polyline tool. Calculate Materials From Selection This can be used to calculate lists from very specific item(s).

Garages work like any other room. It's the Floor Supplied by the Foundation Room Below that we need to talk about. Remember, Walls define Rooms. Rooms are essentially just big 3D boxes created inside the space enclosed by those walls. The various Room settings control what is automatically happening inside those boxes. In some cases we want the real world room to occupy the space of 2 of those boxes. This is where things like Open Below and in this case, Floor Supplied by the Foundation Room Below come into play... Hope that helps.

That's the spirit!! ...and then you follow it up with a method that only takes a few seconds too. Seriously though, your advice is super negative, discouraging to new users, and not very helpful, plus it's not even accurate. A couple quick examples: Here's one of the easiest ways... Open your Framing Defaults and change your Roof Structure thickness to match your Roof Truss' Top Chord. Now open the Build Roof Dialog, uncheck Automatic Birdsmouth Cut and enter the desired heel height minus the displayed Vertical Structure Depth. In fact you can even just copy and paste the value from right there into a formula in the dialog box that looks something like this... ...hit tab to make sure the calculation carries out and that should be all there is to it. Plenty of other easy ways to do this after the fact. Here's one... Open the roof plane(s), Lock Pitch, and copy/paste the Top Of Plate Value and add your desired heel height to it in the Baseline Height Field. Easy peasy... Bottom line? @BnCKelley, this can totally be done and it's really not very difficult to achieve. Hope that helps. NOTE: The methods above were specifically meant to describe how to set the "... desired heel height at the face of the wall". This may or may not be what any specific person was referring to. It was not intended to address the suitability of this heel height for any given cantilever distance.

The ratio is 8 to 1, and you can actually use the Reference Display capabilities with or without custom macros to get what you want. The main key points: -Reference Floor is same as existing floor. -One layer set uses a taller text style to control the arrow length. Text color is either set to white or a custom macro is utilized to display different label in different layer set (blank in this particular layer set)). -Other layer set has normal text style assigned but Roofs, Labels layer is set to invisible line style. -Put the first layer set (the one displaying the desired text) on top. -Move the text in relation to the arrow by using carriage returns either before or after the displayed text.

Secondly, check this setting in your Sun Angle settings...

First thing I would check is that these 2 settings are both checked. In particular, Use Enhanced Lighting will kill all your shadows in everything except PBR views...

Ya, I realize that. It’s being used less and less though in favor of other apps and even just web browsers. I personally haven’t had Adobe installed for years.

Just FYI, there’s a pretty high likelyhood you’ll have to get your clients to download another viewer for the 3D PDF anyway. It’s not universally supported. Plenty of the most common PDF viewers/editors don’t support it at all.

I’m with Joey. Looks like you probably just need to turn the layer on.

If you are trying to get the stemwall shorter then do that in the room structure tab. The stemwall height and resulting footing top height is controlled by the room.

There is no way to uncheck that setting in the strict sense of the word. The setting becomes unchecked if you drag the footing up or down in an elevation view though.

If you're in X12, open the Project Browser and look in the Schedules folder. You have a schedule called "ELECTRICAL NOTES" that's causing your problems. It's in a CAD Detail called "ELECTRICAL NOTES, CHIEF".

It seems like 3D PDFs were all the hype for a couple minutes a few years back. I'm with Mark though, they're overly complicated, more time consuming, and less effective than other methods we have now.

Material Regions won’t work on the outside corners. For those you’ll have to use something else. I would personally model them with solids.

As Eric has pointed out, this is easily controlled using the Resize About setting in the General Wall Defaults.

If you decide to go the symbol route, just import as a regular fixture, click on the Options tab, set the symbol to Inserts Into Wall, set the Depth to match your wall thickness + any desired offset into the room and then after you place the symbol, select it while in an elevation and click the Edit Wall Cutout Polyline tool. Now adjust your wall cutout to whatever you want it to be.

...Or maybe just download the free trial and then enter your key to upgrade it to a registered version.

Try downloading X11 first and then see what happens.

Much faster than drawing a line or using another member to make a square cut. No need to use trim either for one-off cuts.

I'm not familiar with sliding glass doors that are that large, but I do have a thought. What about using a steel moment frame type opening for that portion of the structure?

We definitely don't do that around here. Also don't think we would be allowed to inset the fireplace like that with any of the inserts we use.

Sorry if my post was confusing. I wasn't actually offering a solution. I was just trying to explain what is happening.

The problem lies with the Pony Wall definition. In order to get rid of the surface layers you need to turn off the wall layer. Turning off the wall layer turns off the concrete portion.

You can also use a Room Divider wall set to NOT invisible and no room definition in place of Mark’s cabinet idea. Just a quick example plan. Note that it still requires manually positioning the casing mounted hinges... Shed Door Example.plan

Hey, thanks for the tip Ryan, I've randomly used the break tool on framing in the past, but never made it part of my regular workflow. It never occured to me how much more efficient it would make certain operations. Very good tip. Thanks!