Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Well said good, sir, well said. This advice is priceless and I could not agree more.
  2. ...in addition, it should be noted that when pulling and dropping directly from the library: a Door symbol (panel) will just be the panel used for whatever style of door you have specified in its Options tab. When dropped into the plan, it will respect its Size, Position, Label, Materials, Components, and a few other settings, but everything else about the newly placed parametric door object will respect your current defaults for that door type. a Doorway object (parametric) will carry over everything about the door--Door Panel settings, Casing and sill settings, Jamb, Arch, Framing, Rough Opening, Energy Values, Schedule settings...everything. If you want to just use the panel itself, then add to library as a Door and make sure none of its settings are silly unless you want them to be unique for a very specific reason.
  3. The difference is likely whether you add to library as a door or a doorway. One is a symbol and the other is a parametric door object.
  4. Go into Structural Member Reporting and Increase Priority for the longer material lengths.
  5. I would just ignore the warning. Once imported, Select All and Fill Window. Draw a Marquis around the left hand part of your screen. There's a single text box way out in space over there that just needs to get deleted. Once you do that, you can move the rest to wherever you want. You could optionally also select the Move option during Import which I assume will only screw up the location of the one text box but I'm not totally sure.
  6. Pretty sure the highlighted section is very specifically referring to the finish coating or outer layer of a single composite material as opposed to the referenced "structural base" of that same material. I'm thinking of the paint layer on metal siding, the foil face on rigid foam insulation, or the paper face on some fiberglass batts.
  7. To understand the gaps between your upper and lower walls you have to understand how Chief generates those walls. Using normal Automatic settings, a wall's main layer generates between floor platforms and exterior wall layers extend to cover the edge of those platforms. You are using a single layer concrete wall with a framed floor system so Chief is doing what would have to happen in the real world...Build concrete wall up to framed floor, framed floor sits on wall, and 2nd floor walls sit on top of that framed floor. You have several potential solutions depending on your desired end goal but here are a couple of the easiest: Set your lower floor walls to Hang Platform Above on Walls Add an exterior layer to your walls Side note, you may find that you have a bit of weirdness at several areas where you have: Walls set to be foundation walls on 2nd floor when they shouldn't be Adjacent walls where one is set to be a foundation wall and the next isn't Some Floor 0 areas that have foundation walls when others don't The above 3 issues are causing footers to generate that shouldn't be generating, stopping walls from joining properly with walls below, and/or stopping walls from joining properly at the ends.
  8. Have you tried it yet? Try exporting Layer Sets and then Importing Layer Sets. You'll find out pretty quick that you get to choose which ones you want.
  9. I see. You must still be back in X15.
  10. By the way, we do still have the Fireplace tool although its been somewhat deprecated and hidden in the software so you have to either add it to your toolbar, assign it to a hotkey, or use the Tool Search to activate it.
  11. I personally almost always build them completely from scratch out of walls, room definitions, and openings (doors,windows, or pass throughs) along with some internal fire, wood, and grate symbols from the Core Catalog and symbols, solids, material regions, etc. for the hearth and mantel. You might also check out the log and grate symbol @Steve_Nyhof posted HERE for the internals.
  12. Manipulated. Its really pretty easy once you wrap your head around what the settings are doing.
  13. Use a wall type with no Interior or Exterior layers. You should for example have a "Deck Railing/Fence" wall type or maybe a "Frame-3 1/2" wall type (if you're working with a really old template).
  14. I wasn't necessarily trying to put forth a specific solution or conclusion, just presenting you with some things to consider. The simple fact is that unvented roof assemblies with any sort of wood product in them are going to be problematic PERIOD. Once you go down that road though, I think you just do the best you can. In your particualr case: You have 2 layers of OSB, both of which can be less than 1 perm Your polyiso layer might have a perm rating of as low as zero depending on what backing it has Your current roofing underlayment (UDL50) has a perm rating of around 0.05 I don't know whats happening underneath the original layer of OSB, but at best you already have plywood sandwiched between 2 vapor retarders If I'm not mistaken, at 3 perms or higher, Versashield would actually be the most breathable and least problematic part of that whole assembly, so I think this is the least of your worries. If you are at peace with the rest, I'm not sure I would lose any sleep over using Versashield on top of it...although I might consider removing the UDL50 first. Just my 2 cents.
  15. Because of its low perm rating, I don't believe Titanium UDL50 is designed for use over an unvented attic either. If the builder was okay with that, then I would think Versashield would be just fine as well--if not better. I think the real problem is the perm rating of any product going over an unvented assembly and the manufacturers resistance to taking on any liability whether actual or perceived. I believe UDL50 has a perm rating of around 0.05 whereas Versashield has a perm rating of 3 at a minimum. Major difference and a major improvement in breathabiliy over the UDL50. Either way, if you really want to do it by the book and decide to go with DensDeck or some other similar fire resistant paneling/sheathing, make sure not to defeat the whole purpose by putting another non breathable roofing layer over the top of it.
  16. Because of its low perm rating, I don't believe Titanium UDL50 is designed for use over an unvented attic either. If the builder was okay with that, then I would think Versashield would be just fine as well--if not better. I think the real problem is the perm rating of any product going over an unvented assembly and the manufacturers resistance to taking on any liability whether actual or perceived. I believe UDL50 has a perm rating of around 0.05 whereas Versashield has a perm rating of 3 at a minimum. Major difference and a major improvement in breathabiliy over the UDL50. Either way, if you really want to do it by the book and decide to go with DensDeck or some other similar fire resistant paneling/sheathing, make sure not to defeat the whole purpose by putting another non breathable roofing layer over the top of it.
  17. Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but all you should need to do is use the Shape tab...
  18. It shouldn't. As soon as you click Hide Selected Edge, the length should go right back to what it was. You're inadvertently using a name:value pair that was made for almost exactly this scenario in that it only reports the visible length.
  19. Assuming you're talking about Foundation Sill Seal here. If so, try entering the following into the Component info for your foundation walls... =(foam_seal_length.to_m/100).ceil*100 Or you could optionally enter the same thing into the Count column in the Materials List itself...
  20. This really isn't too difficult to achieve: Draw a simple Polyline (CAD) either manually or by selecting the Room and clicking the Make Room Polyline tool. Apply your desired Fill Style to that polyine (Grid with red Pattern Lines and Background set to desired Fill color) Move that polyline to the desired layer ("CAD, Demolition" maybe) Move that Polyline to a lower Drawing Group (Drawing Group #35 will be just in front of the Room Fill Drawing Group) Now you can simply toggle the "CAD, Demolition" layer on and off as desired. If you don't want to use the Room Fill at all, you can also create a second Polyline for the wood planks and just place that on a separate layer. Again though, the main key point is to move it to a lower Drawing Group so that it is behind everything.
  21. Nice work! Here's one idea for the room name that wouldn't require much of a redesign... Place %room.name% into your Supplier field Drag out an extra line segment from the Tail of each Polyline so that it extends far enough that the Move handle (center) of your Polyline object is in the correct room and immediately click the Hide Selected Edge tool. This second step won't even be necessary for many rooms.
  22. We actually already have most of those. You should check out the Plant Chooser under Terrain>Plant>Plant Chooser You can search using the Common name and then view results using either the Common Name or the Scientific Name (which is how the plants are named in the library). And if the Library Window is already active, you'll see the Library item automatically selected when you select through the Plant Chooser...
  23. This should be in the general Q&A section, but the quick answer is that you cannot. It has 2 be done with 2 separate wall objects. The result will look like one continuous wall, but it has to be modeled with at least 2.