Alaskan_Son

By the way, we do still have the Fireplace tool although its been somewhat deprecated and hidden in the software so you have to either add it to your toolbar, assign it to a hotkey, or use the Tool Search to activate it.

I personally almost always build them completely from scratch out of walls, room definitions, and openings (doors,windows, or pass throughs) along with some internal fire, wood, and grate symbols from the Core Catalog and symbols, solids, material regions, etc. for the hearth and mantel. You might also check out the log and grate symbol @Steve_Nyhof posted HERE for the internals.

Manipulated. Its really pretty easy once you wrap your head around what the settings are doing.

Use a wall type with no Interior or Exterior layers. You should for example have a "Deck Railing/Fence" wall type or maybe a "Frame-3 1/2" wall type (if you're working with a really old template).

I wasn't necessarily trying to put forth a specific solution or conclusion, just presenting you with some things to consider. The simple fact is that unvented roof assemblies with any sort of wood product in them are going to be problematic PERIOD. Once you go down that road though, I think you just do the best you can. In your particualr case: You have 2 layers of OSB, both of which can be less than 1 perm Your polyiso layer might have a perm rating of as low as zero depending on what backing it has Your current roofing underlayment (UDL50) has a perm rating of around 0.05 I don't know whats happening underneath the original layer of OSB, but at best you already have plywood sandwiched between 2 vapor retarders If I'm not mistaken, at 3 perms or higher, Versashield would actually be the most breathable and least problematic part of that whole assembly, so I think this is the least of your worries. If you are at peace with the rest, I'm not sure I would lose any sleep over using Versashield on top of it...although I might consider removing the UDL50 first. Just my 2 cents.

Because of its low perm rating, I don't believe Titanium UDL50 is designed for use over an unvented attic either. If the builder was okay with that, then I would think Versashield would be just fine as well--if not better. I think the real problem is the perm rating of any product going over an unvented assembly and the manufacturers resistance to taking on any liability whether actual or perceived. I believe UDL50 has a perm rating of around 0.05 whereas Versashield has a perm rating of 3 at a minimum. Major difference and a major improvement in breathabiliy over the UDL50. Either way, if you really want to do it by the book and decide to go with DensDeck or some other similar fire resistant paneling/sheathing, make sure not to defeat the whole purpose by putting another non breathable roofing layer over the top of it.

Because of its low perm rating, I don't believe Titanium UDL50 is designed for use over an unvented attic either. If the builder was okay with that, then I would think Versashield would be just fine as well--if not better. I think the real problem is the perm rating of any product going over an unvented assembly and the manufacturers resistance to taking on any liability whether actual or perceived. I believe UDL50 has a perm rating of around 0.05 whereas Versashield has a perm rating of 3 at a minimum. Major difference and a major improvement in breathabiliy over the UDL50. Either way, if you really want to do it by the book and decide to go with DensDeck or some other similar fire resistant paneling/sheathing, make sure not to defeat the whole purpose by putting another non breathable roofing layer over the top of it.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but all you should need to do is use the Shape tab...

It shouldn't. As soon as you click Hide Selected Edge, the length should go right back to what it was. You're inadvertently using a name:value pair that was made for almost exactly this scenario in that it only reports the visible length.

Assuming you're talking about Foundation Sill Seal here. If so, try entering the following into the Component info for your foundation walls... =(foam_seal_length.to_m/100).ceil*100 Or you could optionally enter the same thing into the Count column in the Materials List itself...

This really isn't too difficult to achieve: Draw a simple Polyline (CAD) either manually or by selecting the Room and clicking the Make Room Polyline tool. Apply your desired Fill Style to that polyine (Grid with red Pattern Lines and Background set to desired Fill color) Move that polyline to the desired layer ("CAD, Demolition" maybe) Move that Polyline to a lower Drawing Group (Drawing Group #35 will be just in front of the Room Fill Drawing Group) Now you can simply toggle the "CAD, Demolition" layer on and off as desired. If you don't want to use the Room Fill at all, you can also create a second Polyline for the wood planks and just place that on a separate layer. Again though, the main key point is to move it to a lower Drawing Group so that it is behind everything.

Nice work! Here's one idea for the room name that wouldn't require much of a redesign... Place %room.name% into your Supplier field Drag out an extra line segment from the Tail of each Polyline so that it extends far enough that the Move handle (center) of your Polyline object is in the correct room and immediately click the Hide Selected Edge tool. This second step won't even be necessary for many rooms.

We actually already have most of those. You should check out the Plant Chooser under Terrain>Plant>Plant Chooser You can search using the Common name and then view results using either the Common Name or the Scientific Name (which is how the plants are named in the library). And if the Library Window is already active, you'll see the Library item automatically selected when you select through the Plant Chooser...

I see 2 waffles. Belgian or Eggo?

This should be in the general Q&A section, but the quick answer is that you cannot. It has 2 be done with 2 separate wall objects. The result will look like one continuous wall, but it has to be modeled with at least 2.

It looks to me like you changed the Callout size in your Schedule's Label tab to something other than automatic and that you manually resized the Callout column rather than going to the Columns/Rows tab and using Scale Images and possibly Use Plan View Scale. Make those changes and see what happens.

Those are just 2 different reference point you can use. If you happen to be working on Floor 1 where your Floor elevation is at zero, the numbers will match. If you are qworking anywhere else where the Floor elevation is not zero, then your numbers will not match.

^^^^This^^^^, although even 5-1/2" ceiling structure would just about work, and you could also just change your side walls from "Interior-4" to "Frame-3 1/2" or some other wall type wih no exterior layers. That gap is just being generated by the exterior finish layer of the wall.

If I'm understanding correctly, what you need to do is break your wall and include one very short section of Hip wall in the middle...

Exactly the method I posted above except I didn't hold back 1/2" in my example. I went tight to the corner. A few other notes regarding this general method for anyone wanting to use it: If you want to get a super sharp transition between your wall and soffit materials, snap the ceiling plane to the outside of your gable wall and break that wall in half. If you want to see the exposed edge of your soffit, drag the ceiling planes back from the surface a very small amount (I always use 0.01"). You can use Room Ceiling Finish but depending on your gable position as it relates to the floor below, doing so may not allow the ceiling finish to extend far enough. The one big potential benefit to using Room Ceiling finish is that if you are having notable issues with the ceiling snapping to an unwanted position, that setting will allow you to pull the ceiling plane well outside the room--completely avoiding the snap problems. If you want the surface material to continue down below the surface of your soffit, then your best bet is to add a Solid and drag it down the appropriate amount. This can be achieved super fast though if you already have the wall in place. Just open an elevation view, make sure you're up on the attic level, click on your attic the wall with the Wall Material Region tool, select the Material Region, and use the Convert Polyline tool and convert to a Solid. You can then reshape as desired and snap the solid to your wall surface in plan view if its not already there.

Sorry, maybe I should have been more clear. I wasn't looking for design alternatives. Just looking for the most automated and intuitive way to fill in that gable end with the vaulted underside.

As I mentioned in my last post, this is very similar to what I ultimately did except that I used a ceiling plane. Yeah, that is always my backup approach. Its nice to be able to use a wall if possible though.

For the record, here's what I actually did: Ceiling plane with zero thickness structural layer pulled past the attic wall's main layer, and attic wall set to Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom... Example Plan 2.plan This works, but its hard to dial in the wall placement in some situations since the ceiling planes want to snap to main layers. Can be a little frustrating depending on the plan.

Curious how the rest of you guys would model an exterior vaulted gable end like this one... I have attached a quick example plan if you want to give it a play. I don't know of any really easy or intuitive ways of getting that gable end wall to automatically fill in. Its a surprisingly annoying and difficult detail to model. Example Plan.plan

Use a Materials List Polyline instead.